alanmin4304

I met a lady the other day that had a scaled down model which she used to catch neonate locusts because arthritus was making her fingers a little too slow and awkward. It was two tubes into a little jar and the suckie mota was her sucking on it. It worked well. Might have to make one.

I used to use plantgeek and tropica but haven't much lately. Also killifish Australia.

I don't have any fish at the moment but I used to siphon or pump it on to the garden.

I think the ones used for fighting don't have big fins do they?

Have to agree with above. Keep the moisture up to the beetles or they eat the eggs. I think you need a reasonable depth of bran as well or they will eat the eggs. I have noticed that if I get slack on either then there is a big reduction in production. You also need to make provision for continued replenishment of beetles as they get old and die off.

I would bet that if there was a way to raise them to the quality we see on imported fighters without having them in jars then the exporters would have done it a long time ago.

I have just unpacked my parcel from them---I find them good to deal with.

The ones I have seen certainly do not look like gherkins. My daughter sent an Email a while ago when we were breeding red ears saying that her girlfriend's turtle had been rushed to the vet because its whole guts was hanging out. The vet, after much struggling managed to get it back in (shows how much some of them know about reptiles). She was concerned about what she should do if it happened again. I replied asking her to think about how her boyfriend would feel if he got sent to the vet every time he felt romantic. She got the idea.

Jim is not joking. I stayed in the camping ground on Stewart Island and nearly froze to death in February. The whole locaton is well worth a visit as it has a lot more of interest than a couple of bumps on the horizon that you will be used to. Better start getting used to speights now.

As above. The enclosure needs to be dry. If the beardies need moisture I put the young ones in a seperate plastic container and spray them with warm water. This gets them moist but keeps the enclosure dry. When older I give them a bath in warm water in the laundry tub when the boss is not looking.

Welcome. Down this way feeding in the winter can cause problems but not sure about up your way.

Should be OK.

They speak the same language though.

+1

You have to treat all pets as if they have salmonella and a host of other zoonotic diseases (including your dog and moggie) Salmonella is motile but can't jump like a flea.

The problem with aquariums is that they are built for fish. You need and enclosure that is ventilated, has good UV and is a good size. I keep babies in glass reptile enclosures with ceramic heaters on thermostats and UV lights, use astro turf as base and nothing for them to play king of the castle on and this way they end up intact if you feed them well. You can have driftwood for them to bask on if you only have one. Natural sunlight is best but not through glass. I use sand as a base on adults as it is easier to clean up droppings. My adults are in a 1600x600x600 enclosure made of timber.

I see they have joined up with some other outfit. I have absolutely no idea what is going on so have also reverted to the original format. Getting old is not for sissies.

You can tell if it is toughened glass by looking at it through polarised sunglasses and rotating them. If they are you cannot cut the glass.

I built a fish house of similar size many moons ago. The main thing is to insulate the hell out of it. I was heating about 60 tanks with a one bar heater which hardly ever came on and a fan that went 24/7. If I was doing it again I would install an automatic water change system but each tank in isolation to avoid the spread of diseases.

Unwanted organism?

Is that where they breed them for release? You still can't buy from there can you?

It is the "P" in its various forms that the plants and algae use to build proteins. Problems with algae are usually caused by an imbalance of "P" and "N." This imbalance can be fixed by adding more "N" provided there is enough "C" and enough light. The point was that rapid pH swings are more dangerous to fish usually than pH itself and pH down may well cause algae problems.

The death penalty does not work anywhere in the world and it is a bit hard to apologise when we make a mistake.

I don't tink there are fish farms for trout are there? Salmon yes.

Phosphate is phosphate and it doesn't matter where it comes from. It is a bit like paying extra for organic salt. It is the ratio of phosphate to nitrate that is the problem. With good light, CO2 and and adding ferts there can be quite a bit of both without algae problems. It is the balance.