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reports.pdf Reports - attached - these will go into the minutes as well. Thanks team see you all tomorrow

Minutes from last years AGM FNZAS AGM 2024 minutes.pdf

Below are the Nominations for positions, also the Statement of Financial performance for the 2024 - 2025 Tax year, Reports will be added to this thread as they are received as well Thank you FNZAS President Nominations for FNZAS Executive 2025-2026.pdf statement of financial performance 2024 2025.pdf

Here are the details for 2025 AGM As the Fish show and Expo has been postponed for a year we have had to revert to an online only AGM Please note anyone can join - but only people on the executive and the delegates can speak unless we open the floor. I will add more details below this post regarding AGM President FNZAS is inviting you to a scheduled Zoom meeting. PLEASE NOTE THIS IS A RECORDED MEETING Topic: FNZAS's AGM Time: Apr 26, 2025 10:00 AM Auckland, Wellington Join Zoom Meeting https://zoom.us/j/97593927808?pwd=kAXQoDbuAsiYOhAiDVqbowtwHiHaOM.1 Meeting ID: 975 9392 7808 Passcode: 986889

Karl is in Australia now doing reptile relocations lol

Did you have any luck?

Derek can you get away with just thick sponge as a divider then it can be removed when you want

Make whatever size holes you like and cover them with netting, or a bit of mesh, to stop fry from getting through, if that is what the divider is for. Otherwise, if this is for platy fry, they are quite large so make the holes slightly smaller than the fry. Won't matter if one or two get through as you will be over-run with fry quickly if you save them all. You could also get solid mesh netting that would do the trick or perhaps a metal, or Perspex frame with mesh siliconed or fastened some other way to it. A heavily planted tank (especially with fine leafed plants like water sprite, Indian fern or Java moss) will ensure enough fry survive each month without you ending up with hundreds of fry you don't have space for and can't get rid of and you don't need to build a divider.

OK, so if I am reading this correctly, you added the new guppies to an established tank that already had fish in it and it is just the new guppies that are dying and not the originals? What is a possibility, is that your originals have some sort of "bug" that doesn't bother them but the new fish have not encountered and so don't have an immunity to. Once the new fish started getting sick, it increased the number of "bugs" so now the originals are having to fight the larger number. People always say you should quarantine new fish for 4 - 6 weeks to check they don't bring anything with them but that doesn't help if it is a case of something the fish have not built up resistance to. I had a similar problem once, many years go now, and it was not the fault of the fish shop. From memory, we just had to wait to see which ones survived. I don't think adding further meds to the water will help. Survival of the fittest. Do the sick fish have stringy poo? That can be a sign of internal parasites. Next time, quarantine new fish to check they are fine before adding them to the established tank. If they were sick to start with, they would show signs in the quarantine period. If they don't show signs of sickness until a week or more after being added to another tank with current inhabitants, I would look at something in that tank that is the problem. Not necessarily poor water quality, as it sounds like everything is good there, but something new to that particular batch of fish. Someone else may have other suggestions.

Free with a catch; needs to be picked up from Te Awamutu on or before this Saturday. I can help with moving/carrying and can disassemble the tank interior prior to pick up. I set this up to attempt to make a stable system with low stock - was successful and I can never detect any nitrates, so I have just trimmed the plants and left it be generally. Water changes to manage mineral build up in water only essentially. Rimless 900x45x450 aquarium. First set up in 2021. Hardscaped and planted heavily. Fluval 207 canister filter and everything you see in the photos included, including the stand which is custom made out of 25mm laminated bamboo. Have glass aquarium bits so it's not as visible. Programmable LED light. Current stock is one geriatric neon tetra (my tetra's were all original when the aquarium started and have slowly dropped off in the last year). 4-5 (not sure buggers won't stay still to count) Borneo suckers/loaches - I leave the algae on some of the glass that grows where the sunlight hits it for these guys as they seem to like it. These were all also added not long after the tank was set up so based on the lifespan on google they are likely all geriatric as well. An indeterminate number of kuhli loaches (possibly zero - I very rarely see them). I presume these guys have bred in this tank before as we saw a very small kuhli in the tank a few years after set up and all the originals were quite large. E-mail me if keen. Don't want any money for it, would prefer someone experience with planted tanks and interested in keeping the existing livestock have it for their enjoyment.

if you have not rehomed this fish yet let me know and I can share this on our Facebook page as well - President FNZAS

Hi team, so my builder is going to place some Perspex in to divide off a smallish section of our tank. However what size holes diameter! do we drill to have water circulate to keep them in. Thanks Derek

We need to dismantle our tank while renovations go on at our house. My daughter has two good size phantom tetra and one harlequin tetra in her small tank that we’d like to find a happy home for. Especially if you have more of the same- free to good home. Pick up near Hutt hospital.

I might be paranoid or overthinking that animates have sold me sick guppies.. it all started from February 4th when I bought a bag of female guppies. The tank looked vibrant, then the week after a guppy died. I thought it was complications from giving birth cause a couple of them came to me pregnant. But from there every week I start loosing 1-2 of them. It's all from animates, I got worried that something was wrong with my tap water (maybe it was double chlorinated and I didn't know?) but it didn't make sense as I have 6 tubs of aged water running for water changes and just to be safe I'll add some prime. I also bought RODI just to be safe during this but nothing changed. I religiously clean my tanks every Sunday and do a 15% water change, before it I'll do a test and Ill also do one after (I know I don't need to do this extra steps but I just have a major OCD so everything needs to be 'perfect'). All of my other tanks are fine, this is just from one specific tank for female guppies. It's been 6 weeks, I had 12 female guppies and now I only have 4 (one is going through the same problem. They would have normal looking bellies and couple days before they die, they would get very very skinny for some reason). I've tried what the staffs have recommended me, salt, pimafix, melafix, meth blue nothing worked. Im at my wits end as all im seeing is a floating fish every Tuesday or Wednesday (is this a coincidence?). Idk what to do, I regret introducing new fish in the tank and should have been happy with my originals, they're still surviving but I think whatever it is in there, it's getting to them soon as a few of my originals are starting to show signs. Did anyone go through this??? Should I just cull the rest of them? It is sad that they're going through this and I can't do anything.

Hello, I have an approx. 6 years old comet goldfish who I adopted from friends who moved overseas. I'm currently renting and also not an experienced fishkeeper by any means, so while I tried to give him a good life in a 65L tank, I'm not in a position to get into fishkeeping as I know he needs to be in a bigger tank or pond. I'm not actually sure of its sex but just went with 'he'. He's a lively guy, will swim around and follow (basically begging for a feed). Really hardy fish. Please let me know if you have a suitable environment for my lovely fish to be in. I'm also happy to rehome him with his current tank + 2x small driftwood & 1x java fern + tank stand + HOB filter + food + accessories for free. Thanks so much Priscilla Based in AUCKLAND

Well done and good work. I know a number of different hobby and interest clubs who are wrangling with all this.

Hi All, Good news. Societies office has reactivated our Society Status and also have accepted our new Constitution. 🥳 Cheers Chris (Secretary HBAS)

Thanks for your help everyone. I bought 4 harlequin rasbora last weekend, and so far they seem happy in their new home - especially at feeding time! I used API Quick Start, and have been monitoring the water parameters, and finally detected some nitrite yesterday so it looks like things are starting to happen.

https://www.youtube.com/results?search_query=create+a+business+channel+on+youtube

Ahh see this is why I need people like you Caryl, I'm not sure about businesses on you tube but know that videos can be uploaded in the you section of you tube then by hitting the plus sign button. Most people I know link back to their 'shop' account from the descriptions / profile

True but it is also the Fun section, which does not need to be about fish. As a long time fish keeper, ccmuva probably hopes someone who manages this site (or has their own) might be able to offer help, or suggest where to go for help. Surely there is a tutorial somewhere on youtube itself?

We arent really the appropriate audience to help with this. This is a site for fish and fishkeeping and aquatic related items

Great links and advice team!

When getting a new tank, it can be tempting to rush and fill it with fish, but if the filter isn’t properly prepared, a new tank can quickly result in a series of disappointments as the water quality deteriorates and the fish struggle to survive. Fish that live in enclosed aquariums are subject to a buildup of toxic wastes in their environment. The majority of these waste products result from the fish urinating, defecating and breathing in the water where they live. Additional waste products can result from decomposing organic matter in the aquarium such as decaying plants, excess food and dead fish. These waste products have one thing in common, the nitrogen molecule. There are a number of species of beneficial bacteria that process nitrogenous wastes into less toxic chemicals and these bacteria work to our advantage by eliminating waste products so that the aquarium is less toxic for its inhabitants. Aquarium filters have been devised to maximise the space provided for these beneficial bacteria to thrive. This type of filtration is called biological filtration and the initial establishment of bacteria within the biological filter is called cycling the filter and is essential to ensure that the water quality is maintained for the good health of the fish. This is one of the most important principles to understand when keeping fish. The Nitrogen Cycle To understand biological filtration, it is helpful to understand the way in which wastes are processed by bacteria in the aquarium. This process is called the nitrogen cycle. Ammonia is one of the principle chemicals in the nitrogen cycle. Fish produce ammonia as a waste product from the digestion of foods and as a by-product from respiration. Uneaten food, solid waste, plant materials, and other organic items decaying in the tank also produce ammonia. Ammonia is a nitrogen-based compound, and it is extremely toxic to all animals. In an aquarium, ammonia can build up quickly. Even a very small amount of ammonia can be stressful to fish so it is important to remove ammonia from the water before it builds up to toxic levels. In nature, a type of bacteria known as Nitrosomonas thrive on a constant diet of ammonia. In an oxygen-rich environment, Nitrosomonas consume ammonia and converts it into nitrite. Nitrite is also toxic to fish and in the long run tends to be a larger problem than ammonia. Another type of bacteria, Nitrospira (also known as Nitrobacter), will consume the nitrite and convert it to nitrate, a relatively harmless compound that can be used up by plants and algae. It is this partnership between Nitrosomonas and Nitrospira which enables the biological filter to function so that fish can be kept in closed aquarium systems. TIP: note the difference in spelling between nitrite and nitrate. Nitrate is the end product so remember it by thinking that the toxic compounds have been all eaten up – ‘ate’ Nitrosomonas bacteria are found everywhere in oxygen rich environments with sufficient nitrogenous waste; however, in the closed aquarium it takes a while for these bacteria to build up a population that is capable of consuming all the ammonia produced by the fish. The buildup of Nitrospira is even slower since high ammonia levels inhibit its growth. Only when the Nitrosomonas bacteria convert the toxic ammonia to nitrite will the Nitrospira populations be able to grow. While it may only take a few days for the population of Nitrosomonas to grow large enough to control the ammonia levels, the delay in Nitrospira growth means it can be a week or more before nitrite is under control. Once the population of nitrifying bacteria is established, the tank is considered to be ‘cycled’ and as long as the level of waste in the aquarium remains constant, and the bacterial population remains healthy, there should no longer be a build up of toxic ammonia. The tank is now a safe environment for fish to live. The end product of the nitrogen cycle is nitrate. In low concentrations, nitrate will not harm fish and it can actually provide a useful nutrient for aquatic plant growth; however, if there are no plants in the tank to consume the nitrate, simpler plants like algae will begin to grow and can cause a nuisance. Also, high nitrate levels can be stressful for fish so it is important to minimise nitrate buildup by keeping aquatic plants or by doing regular partial water changes. Methods of Cycling When establishing a new tank, it is best not to fully stock the tank until the filter is capable of handling the bioload of waste products. There are several ways to get the biological filter ready to handle a tank full of fish. The main methods include: Adding mature media Seeding the filter with a bacterial culture Fishless cycling Cycling with fish Mature Media One of the best ways to quickly establish a working biological filter is to add mature media from an established filter. In other words, this means taking used filter media (e.g. noodles, sponges or filter wool) and placing it into the new filter so that the bacteria can quickly spread throughout the new filter media and tank. In a stable established tank it is safe to remove a small portion of the biological filter media (no more than a third) and replace it with new media. In no time the bacterial populations will return to normal. When transferring the mature media it is important to keep the bacteria alive so that they will be able to colonise the new filter. The bacteria will start to die off slowly without a constant flow of oxygenated water so it is important to get it into a running filter quickly to get the best benefit. It is helpful to treat the media as you would a live fish – ensure it has oxygen and is kept in mature stable water conditions (use mature tank water and avoid temperature extremes). Aim to place it into the filter as soon as possible to minimise bacterial die off. The new filter can be filled with new media and then the mature media can be added (be sure to add some of the ‘dirty’ water that the filter media was transported in as this will contain bacteria as well). The tank should be able to safely handle a small number of fish with minimal risk of ammonia spikes. When the new tank has had time to settle and all of the new media in the filter has had a chance to build up populations of nitrifying bacteria, more fish can be added slowly to build up the bioload (the amount of waste produced by the tank and its inhabitants). The filter in the picture above has been running for a long time and it is well cycled. It has just been opened and a good amount of brown sludge can be seen. A small portion of the ‘dirty’ media from this filter can be a great way to start up a new filter. Seeding the Filter Seeding the filter is when new media is colonised by adding a culture of nitrifying bacteria. This can be achieved either from adding ‘dirty water’ from a mature tank or by adding a commercial bacterial culture like TLC Smart Start to the new tank water. Once the bacteria have been added to the new media, they must have a supply of nitrogenous waste to consume or they will not survive. Adding a few hardy fish can ensure that these bacteria survive however it is very important to monitor the ammonia and nitrite levels to make sure that the bacteria are able to handle the waste that the fish provide. A number of excellent products are avaialble on the market that offer bacterial cultures that can speed up cycling. TLC Smart Start is one such product. A bottle of this is added to the tank and a full complement of nitrifying bacteria will seed the filter as well as all other surfaces of the tank helping it to get established and avoid toxic levels of ammonia and nitrites. Other tank additives such as Cycle, Seachem Prime and Stress Zyme have some added nitrifying bacteria that can be added on a weekly basis, or whenever water is changed, to help with cycling but they are generally just adding Nitrosomonas bacteria in small quantities so are not as effective at completely seeding the filter. Some can be useful in reducing toxic ammonia levels but this should not be a cure for bad husbandry. Fishless Cycling If starting with completely new media in a new tank, virtually no nitrifying bacteria will exist so a population will need to be established. The first step is to create an ammonia-rich environment that will support the first populations of beneficial bacteria. Ammonia can be supplied by fish living in the tank, or by adding pure household ammonia to a tank that as no fish. In the interests of minimising suffering to the fish who may have to endure toxic levels of ammonia and nitrite, a fishless cycling method is preferred by many experienced fishkeepers. This method also tends to be much faster than cycling with fish since a higher level of ammonia can be added without risking harm to any fish. How To: With the fishless cycling method, no fish are added until the tank is completely cycled. The ammonia levels are created artificially either in the form of adding decaying food, dead fish, dead shrimp or simply by adding a small amount of pure ammonia (without added detergents) from the supermarket. The following steps are carried out: The tank is filled with water and the heater is turned up to 32 degrees. Ammonia is added until the levels are just detectable (up to 4 ppm (mg/L) using a standard aquatic ammonia test kit. The water is tested every day and after a week or so the ammonia levels will begin to drop and the nitrite levels will increase. After a few more days, the nitrite levels will keep rising and eventually it will start to fall and the nitrate levels will begin to increase. Once there is no trace of ammonia or nitrites the temperature can be turned down and a partial water change can be carried out (do not clean the filter or vacuum the gravel). This process will take 7 days to 3 weeks depending on the concentration of ammonia and the careful control of ammonia levels throughout. A small number of fish can be added as soon as the water is tested to be stable for 24 hours (i.e. a suitable temperature and no toxic compounds). The number of fish can gradually be built up over time as bacterial populations adjust to the bioload. Cycling with Fish A new tank and filter can also be cycled with fish using the same principle as the fishless cycling method; however, this method uses the natural ammonia waste products from the fish living in the tank instead of any adding any pure ammonia. In many ways, this method is the least desirable way to cycle the tank since the fish may have to endure very toxic conditions until the nitrifying bacteria have populated the filter sufficiently to handle the bioload. Since the tank is in a state of instability, there are also additional problems that can occur during this process including bacterial bloom or fish diseases. How to: There are a few things to consider when cycling with fish: Only a few fish should be added (depending on the size of the tank) so that the amount of waste product is very low – this will help ensure the ammonia levels do not spike too high and kill all the fish suddenly. Some species of fish are not hardy enough to withstand the harsh conditions of cycling but even for the hardiest species it is not uncommon for fish to die during this process. Oxygen levels must be kept very high since the ammonia will damage the fish’s gills and make it difficult for them to extract oxygen from the water. The fish should not be fed too much and ideally not at all if the ammonia levels have spiked. Very careful monitoring of the ammonia levels will If ammonia levels rise over 4 ppm (mg/L) then steps will need to be taken (such as partial water changes) to reduce toxicity or the fish will die. If conditions get too harsh, chemical filtration like Ammo Chips can be added to absorb excess ammonia and while this can save the fish, it will delay the cycling process. Chemicals like Ammo Lock will temporarily make the ammonia levels safe, but they will not prevent the nitrifying bacteria from utilising it which means toxic nitrite will still be produced. It is important to be aware that the fish will be stressed by rapidly fluctuating tank conditions so make every effort to keep conditions in check. Water Testing For experienced fishkeepers, water testing is something that is carried out if and when there appears to be a problem. Carefully observing the fish’s behaviour can say a lot about the tank’s water stability and an experienced fishkeeper can detect even the most subtle changes in demeanour, activity and appetite. For new or inexperienced fishkeepers, water testing is a way to ensure that the tank is safe for fish to live in and it can help educate about early signs of problems. At its very basic, water testing helps to ensure that the filter is functioning optimally; it also is a way to ensure that the pH, hardness and salinity are as they should be for the species being kept. For some parameters, like ammonia, nitrite and nitrate, it is helpful to test the tank water before doing a water change since the objective is to determine what the fish have been living in and how well the filter is working. For other parameters, like pH, hardness and salinity (for brackish or saltwater tanks), the testing should be carried out on the water that will be introduced to the tank although they can also be carried out on existing tank water if a fluctuation in these values is suspected. Most fish shops offer free water testing for the basic parameters such as ammonia and nitrite but it can be very helpful for a fishkeeper to purchase their own test kit that they can use in the home when needed. Monitoring water chemistry with a home kit is an easy affair. Most test kits provide easy to follow instructions and information about what results should be expected and when to seek help.

Worked for me too, I was just looking for them in the wrong place as downloads 🙂