Caryl

Oh the AW gets read by most, I was referring to the YB. Grant will help. I also have 2 club members willing to help, and they have done so for a couple of years, but they work long hours and have busy lives too.

That you with the surname starting with P antwan?

Right above this post is a sticky with step by step instructions. Basically, you need to have somewhere online that hosts photos (like www.Photobucket.com) and allows links. Once you have an online host you send the photos from your computer to the online host then you can link the photos there to your post here.

I gather there was plenty of pushing wok but... Finally got North Shore's list this morning Willy. By the way, I started printing the AW covers this afternoon. Won't be long now - well, another week perhaps. Takes a few hours to print covers as they have to go through at half speed and single side at a time. Pages take 2 or 3 days each magazine to print all plus I also have to do the YB covers, again one side at a time. THEN we have to fold, staple, join 2 mags together, wrap, address and stamp them all (x2). Hope to have a final full master list sent tonight so I can then build up a new mailing list. It is times like this I wonder why I do this job - especially when I discover the majority don't even bother reading them

DC3? I only got hold of a little yellow biplane. Damn! (BTW, caper is a she )

Fatdog you need to PM me with your real name so I know who you are 8) Wok, it is the club secretaries whose job it is to get the lists and caps in, not the FNZAS secretary's job! Nothing to do with Mekhaela.

Goldfish can also change colour over the years. I had a goldfish that lost all body colour but had gorgeous orange fins. He started out orange all over for a number of years and changed when he was about 4 years old.

Make sure it is pure peat too with no fertilisers or mould inhibitors added.

Better yet. Please write an article (with pics) and send it to me for pulication in the Aquarium World magazine Pretty please.

I would select other barbs, tetras and rasboras. You need fast swimming fish to avoid being nibbled by the tiger barbs. Shoaling fish like rummy noses, golden barbs, cherry barbs, harlequins etc. Pentazona barbs look like tiger barbs but do not nip like the tigers. You could even add gouramis (not the dwarf variety). Avoid Buenos aires tetras if you want a planted tank One bala shark will be fine on its own. They are easily startled though and may try to jump out of the tank so avoid sudden movements when you are near the tank. Also avoid sharp edges on decor as the shark may damage itself diving for cover. Bristlenoses and corys for the bottom.

Very nice photo despite the crappy camera I bet we all wish our tanks looked that good!

Very nice fishboi

Probably only works on Italian fish

OK. I managed to confuse a lot of people by asking people to let me know if the DIDN'T want their user name from here to be added to their Year Book details :roll: I figured I would get the definite NOTS this way and the YES people would also add their bit. Some did, but others didn't as they quite rightly pointed out I had asked for those who were against it so they didn't reply. This won't work as I need permission to print your user name in the Year Book so, if you have not already agreed to this (and many of you have already done so, so thank you) PLEASE LET ME KNOW IF IT IS OK TO ADD YOUR USER NAME TO YOUR YEAR BOOK DETAILS if you haven't already done so. FNZAS MEMBERS ONLY PLEASE 8) I have time to add other user names as I was held up unpardonably by some clubs not sending their details in on time. As a consequence, I will only be able to start the magazine print runs tonight, starting with the AW, so magazines (you get the August AW plus the YB posted together this month) will not be out until at least next week. I would apologise for the delay but it is not my fault :evil: If you want to know who to blame, the worst offenders were HBAS, Waikato and North Shore :lol:

Because it only works temporarily depending on the buffers in the tank. It can result in wild pH swings too.

Do not use that pH Down stuff! Try putting driftwood in the tank or fill a mesh bag with peat and drop it in the tank or pack it into the filter.

Just trying to cover all the bases. An aquarium is said to be 'mature' when ammonia and nitrItes are 0 and nitrAtes have begun to rise. You then do water changes to keep the nitrAtes below 50mg/l although less than 25mg/l is better. The sensitivity of different species to nitrAte levels varies.

But I cropped all the uninteresting bits off the pics Alan so none had red tickets

What are the nitrAte levels? If it is just bottom dwellers dying I would suspect something in the substrate.

Peas are good for constipation, if you can get the fish to eat any. Cooked pea with the shell removed. I don't think a salt bath does much for constipation or headstanding. Are you thinking of Epsom Salts? Some people use plain salt as a general tonic. I am finding different dosage rates for Epsom Salts. Two sites said to get the fish to eat 1 grain. Another said 1 tsp per gallon (but not sure if that is Imp or US gallons). Yet another said a 15 - 20 minute bath 1Tbs of Epsom Salts per US gallon (3.7L) and another recommended 1 Tbs per half a gallon (US). This lot came from a US oscar site... Epsom Salt Treatment Quickest Cure: Feed a shelled pea. Peas are natural laxatives for fish. You may want to slightly blanch or microwave the peas for a few seconds to soften them up and remove the shell. Quick Cure: Feed a pea with a crystal of Epsom salts (magnesium sulfate) in it to the fish. Epsom salts is a purgative. If that doesn't purge the fish, use one of the expanded methods below. Ammonia levels must be watched carefully. Short Dip: In a large container filled with water from your aquarium, add 1 tablespoon Epsom salts per gallon (this keeps water temperature constant for the initial part of the bath. Swim the fish in this solution for 1/4 to 1/2 hour or until stress shows or feces are released. Top the water up in the fish's usual container with dechlorinated water and return the fish to it. Change the water in about an hour to remove any feces and residual salts. Repeat daily until fish shows signs of recovery. Check for signs of bacterial infection or parasites for further treatment. Medium Term Bath: 1 tablespoon Epsom salt per 5g, repeated every day for 3 days. Up the temperature to between 82 and 86 degrees Fahrenheit and monitor for two weeks. Increase aeration or surface agitation during this time of offset the lack of oxygen in the water due to the high temperatures. During this procedure do not feed. After the fish has recovered - feed a more varied diet including live foods as much as possible (crickets, earthworms, bloodworms, etc.) Check for signs of bacterial infection or parasites for further treatment. Long Term Bath: Add 1/8 teaspoon of Epsom salt for every 5 gallons of water. Up the temperature to between 82 and 86 degrees Fahrenheit and monitor for two weeks. Increase aeration or surface agitation during this time of offset the lack of oxygen in the water due to the high temperatures. Check for signs of bacterial infection or parasites for further treatment

thanks for that 8)

I have 5 pics of guppies from the Show but no idea who they belong to :roll:

The only club details now missing are those of NORTH SHORE. wok, ask seahorsemad to contact me if he wants his user name added to his details please. I will need to know who he is too 8) If you have a meeting tonight, check with any other members who have a user name in here please to see if they want it added.

Very nice. Now I know what to aim for

I get it occasionally if I overfeed too much at once.