Caryl

Anyone want some Java moss? It posts well in a ziplog bag within an envelope so you would get however much I could fit in a business envelope. It squishes well so you can get a good handful. $5.00

This is a common problem with stem plants like this and ambulia is good at it. Most likely lack of light as the bushy tops cut off the light to the bottom half. Try thinning it out a bit, if it is too thick.

Here's hoping you have more luck with Raindrop.

Fish are opportunist feeders so would eat anything that came their way. NZ brown trout feed on all sorts of arthropods like koura (native crayfish) as well as small fish, frogs and even mice if the opportunity arises.

If you have successfully kept your current fish alive and healthy for 12 months and you haven't got an algae outbreak, and your water test results are excellent, then you are ready to try a more difficult species. Difficult doesn't always mean hard though as it may mean something like the fish has specific requirements not able to be given in a community aquarium.

When I had Java fern the leaves were often edged in black.

Possibly the start of black beard algae (BBA) and common on slow growing plants like Java fern. Very difficult to get rid of. It may be caused by too much light, and/or water pollutants. It could have already been on the plant when it was bought. Bear in mind, Java ferns also reproduce by growing tiny plantlets off the edges of the wide leaves. Sometimes this makes the edges look weird. Make sure you have plenty of water movement and excellent water conditions. The internet has plenty of detailed info on BBA.

If they are pellets designed specifically for Bettas - yes. You can also feed frozen blood worms etc but be very careful handling the blood worms as many (me included) get an allergic reaction to them. Wear gloves or use utensils so you don't actually touch them.

A Betta only lives 2 - 3 years so if you choose the biggest in the display, it is also possibly the oldest and may already be 12 months or more old. How do you know it was over-feeding that killed the last one? Bettas need a diet high in protein so live food is good or specially formulated fish food for bettas. Here is a really good article about how much to feed your betta that should help you... https://www.myaquariumclub.com/skinny-bettas-underfeeding-might-be-worse-than-overfeeding-19292.html

Easily. When you consider most of the fish is only fins there is not much body. 3 bristlenoses could easily eat all the evidence overnight. They are nocturnal so do their food foraging at night. Sorry you lost the fish but, as said in the other post, have you been testing your aquarium water?

Sorry to hear that but without more detail, it is not easy to offer suggestions. One of the first things you should always do is test the water for ammonia, nitrites and nitrates, along with pH. Betta are very sensitive to water conditions and need top quality water.

Unless a male Betta has something to compete against (another male or to impress a female) they tend to hang about like this. Try putting a mirror in there and see if you get a reaction.

Do you have a test kit? Frankly, if there was anything wrong with the water quality, the betta would get sick first 😉

Stop looking so hard at the fish! She looks fine and their fins look different depending on how much they have flared them. They can get a bit roughed up by the males or from scraping them as they zip into their hidey holes. Unless she develops red streaks down her fins she is likely fine. The landscaping of your tank looks fine and there isn't anything particularly sharp that could damage the fishes too mush. More important is to check the water parameters - nitrates, nitrites, ammonia and pH. Do you have any other fish in the tank apart from the 2 bristlenoses and the Betta?

Hard to tell from the photos but I suspect nothing is wrong with him. Their natural colouring is brown and, depending on genetics, it may be a result of him reverting, or partially so, to his natural colour - like goldfish change colour as they age. It may stay like that or the dark colour may spread. If there is no redness or extra raggedness to the fin I would say he's fine. Their pectorals can get a bit tatty anyway as they dart in and out of tight places. I am interested in the wide red patch on top. One of mine has that too and I figured it was a result of him ramming himself into a tight hole and scaping the top of his body but perhaps it is normal. It comes and goes on mine and doesn't seem to affect him health-wise anyway.

Ambulia?

Are there any fish clubs in your area? Members may be able to help you re-home your fish.

It is a hard way to learn but you will have learned a lot and are unlikely to repeat the mistake again. I think many of us have gone through mysterious deaths while we try frantically to figure out the problem and wonder why we took up fish keeping! Onwards and upwards and good luck for the future!

Personally I think it would be over-stock but I prefer lightly stocked aquariums to start with. You have a larger margin for error if something goes wrong and it is a lot easier to keep the water parameters at their best. I was looking up blue phantoms, as I know nothing about them, but the article I read says they prefer a fast flowing water oxygen-rich environment to do well and fast flow does not suit discus. Phantoms also need a mature aquarium so couldn't be added straight away anyway. They also prefer a lower temperature than discus, which are better at higher temps.

Good to know you figured out the source of the problem.

As time goes by and the tank continues to cycle, you may be fine as it balances. The nitrites and nitrates are more important than the pH. Good luck with your fish keeping and don't hesitate to ask questions 🙂

I thought curled gills were most often associated with too much ammonia so poor water conditions. Do regular water changes and test the water for ammonia. Sometimes it will improve but sometimes the damage is permanent.

Welcome to the forums! Have you tested the water pH, nitrates and nitrites? Neons are very sensitive to water conditions and I suspect adding them to a new tank is the problem as they need a well established tank. Have you read about cycling and how important it is? I always cycled a tank with guppies or any hardy fish a similar size. If I had a 2ft tank, I would start with 4 guppies, wait 1 month then add another 4 and repeat until the required stocking level was reached. Never lost a fish as this method built up the good bacteria to match the fish numbers. A 3ft tank I would start with 6 guppy sized fish and repeat as above. A 4ft tank got 8 guppy sized fish.

Like livingart, I would say it is not worth much, if anything. It would probably be cheaper to replace than try and find parts or repair. I either have one myself, in my box of spare aquarium bits, or I biffed it long ago. You should be able to test it yourself as there is little to go wrong in them. Either it goes well, goes but not well, or doesn't go at all. If it goes well, give it to someone starting out but warn them it may not last much longer. If it goes, but not well, it is likely to be stuffed diaphragms and you can tell by looking at them. They will have disintegrated or have holes in them, especially along the creases. If it doesn't go at all, biff it. If they couldn't find the parts for them 13 years ago, you're not likely to do so now.

Are you wanting a metal stand or wood? Talk to an engineering firm to get a custom metal one made or a joiner for wooden. Or, as suggested, contact a local club as they will know someone I am sure. Local aquarium shops might know someone to recommend too.