Caryl

The fancier types of goldfish get bloated or digestive problems very easily. Hopefully, now you have cleaned up the tank, he will slowly come right. The peas are good for constipation, which he possibly has/had. Cooked pea with the shell removed. Stop feeding him for 24 - 72 hours and see if he comes right by himself. Then try feeding live foods if you can get any or soften his flakes or dry food in water first. A lot of dry foods swell up once wet so wetting them first ensures they are not swelling up further once he has swallowed them. I am finding different dosage rates for Epsom Salts. Two sites said to get the fish to eat 1 grain. Another said 1 tsp per gallon (but not sure if that is Imp or US gallons). Yet another said a 15 - 20 minute bath 1Tbs of Epsom Salts per US gallon (3.7L) and another recommended 1 Tbs per half a gallon (US). This lot came from a US oscar site... Epsom Salt Treatment Quickest Cure: Feed a shelled pea. Peas are natural laxatives for fish. You may want to slightly blanch or microwave the peas for a few seconds to soften them up and remove the shell. Quick Cure: Feed a pea with a crystal of Epsom salts (magnesium sulfate) in it to the fish. Epsom salts is a purgative. If that doesn't purge the fish, use one of the expanded methods below. Ammonia levels must be watched carefully. Short Dip: In a large container filled with water from your aquarium, add 1 tablespoon Epsom salts per gallon (this keeps water temperature constant for the initial part of the bath. Swim the fish in this solution for 1/4 to 1/2 hour or until stress shows or feces are released. Top the water up in the fish's usual container with dechlorinated water and return the fish to it. Change the water in about an hour to remove any feces and residual salts. Repeat daily until fish shows signs of recovery. Check for signs of bacterial infection or parasites for further treatment. Medium Term Bath: 1 tablespoon Epsom salt per 5g, repeated every day for 3 days. Up the temperature to between 82 and 86 degrees Fahrenheit and monitor for two weeks. Increase aeration or surface agitation during this time of offset the lack of oxygen in the water due to the high temperatures. During this procedure do not feed. After the fish has recovered - feed a more varied diet including live foods as much as possible (crickets, earthworms, bloodworms, etc.) Check for signs of bacterial infection or parasites for further treatment. Long Term Bath: Add 1/8 teaspoon of Epsom salt for every 5 gallons of water. Up the temperature to between 82 and 86 degrees Fahrenheit and monitor for two weeks. Increase aeration or surface agitation during this time of offset the lack of oxygen in the water due to the high temperatures. Check for signs of bacterial infection or parasites for further treatment

It is always good to hear what others have found helpful, or not.

You were very lucky. You might still have a whitespot outbreak or something else as a result of the stress (on the fish that is, not yourself ) so keep a close eye on the fish over the next week or two.

Will email instructions Henry. 1. Don't know about heat controllers. We use a glass thermostat on ours but they are hard to get these days. I just happened to have an old one in the cupboard. There used to some called Slikstats but I don't know if they are still available. 2. A heatpad on its own is plenty. Really good as heat rises so provides even heating throughout the tank.

but he said it is soft all over. Chitons are hard.

Suemack is in Whangarei also and I am sure she would be interested in a local club.

No outdated at all and still have their uses.

I'm with the rest, an external is easier to look after and doesn't take up room in the tank so aesthetically pleasing as well. I have a HOB running in the lounge. The water level is up to the lip of the overflow so I can't hear the water running through it at all so no frequent loo trips required The one thing wrong with HOBs though is the gap you need to leave in the lid. Kamikazi fish will spot the smallest of gaps to leap through.

Gorgeous as usual (and the fish ain't bad either :lol: )

I will be printing the Year Book with forum nicknames (if I know them) added as requested to do so by many. If you DO NOT want your nickname to be listed with your real name in the Year Book, please let me know ASAP.

Ring around the shops and ask. I know Animates don't have them. I bought mine elsewhere so can't tell you ChCh prices.

They are not cross breeding evil, the gba is merely a colour morph of the ordinary BN. Better to keep them separate thogh so you can get lots of gba or BNs and not a cross of the two. I doubt they will get weird colours, more likely some of the fry will be gbas and the majority will be common plain ones. Leave them now and see if the hatch Krissie. They will cope on their own. Baby BNs are quite large and good at fending for themselves.

Bloat will cause the scales to raise slightly anyway so it may not be dropsy at all. Try peas or Epsom Salts and see if it is actually a digestive problem.

They are better yes. I myself am a fan of the Jebo (different from the Jebao. I have Fluvals and Eheims and Jebos. Would not buy Fluvals again, my Eheim wet/dry has never run properly but the Jebos are brilliant!

I lost one once and couldn't find it anywhere. Searched in tank and on floor. Finally found it - I had a breeding trap floating in the tank with fry in it. It had a perspex lid. The CAE had leapt up onto the lid and dried out under the lights

See if it survives on its own. It has done so so far so chances are good. Make sure there is plenty of plant for it to hide in, especially fine leaved plant like Java moss. Platies will drop fry every 4 - 6 weeks.

The tiger worms are the reddish skinnier ones. Many fish don't like their bitter taste I am told but I don't know how they know they are bitter :roll:

Remove the gold gourami 8)

Are they like the snakes that can unhinge their jaws to get larger prey inside?

The Canons do best in all the reviews. They are good value, very good picture quality, large range of lenses available and if I was buying a digital SLR I would buy a Canon. Though having said that we have been buying Sony products (and selling them, along with other brands) for over 30 years and never had problem with them.

Welcome back Eric. Sorry I can't help you with the daphnia as I am a bit far away and they don't travel well. Also, it is winter and my daphnia population has died off (I know this cos the water in the container has gone bright green ). More will come back when the weather warms up

I think they are ok outside in summer.

Love my Sony. Will be checking out cameras at the Ingram Micro Showcase in Chch next week Canons are good too.

Looking forward to pics when you can manage to get some.

That site also has lots of errors Sharn. Try looking up convicts then have a look at what they suggest are compatible species Do the same with platys :lol: As someone on another forum said...nice idea but useless as the data is wrong.