Ira

Microbubbles caused by the filter is easy enough to test. Turn it off for half an hour.

Just let it warm back up. I wouldn't worry too much about it. I left one of my tanks unplugged for about 3 weeks, noticed the fish were moving a bit sluggishly and checked the temp, it was at 16°. They were all fine. Another one was outside in a sleepout in 0° for at least a week full of fry with no heater, no idea what the temperature got down to but it painfully cold. No noticable losses.

150 lumens is not that much light at 3 watts that's 50 lumens/watt. An average 23 watt compact fluoro bulb will be around 1500 lumens(65 lumens/watt), a 4 foot fluoro T8 will be in the 2000-3000(50-75lumens/watt) range. Most of the led lights floating around have a similar or worse lumen per watt than your average fluoros. So you'll need 10 of those $9 leds to produce the same light as a $5 compact fluoro from the warehouse. The only advantage leds get is they're easier to focus so at the same lumen/watt you get more light on target. But you're paying, in this instance about 10 times the price for that. You get a good reflector on the fluoro and they get close while costing a fraction of the price.

No, it doesn't.

No, you have 1mm head. Because your outlet is 1mm above the surface.

Lol, no. The inlet and outlet location is irrelevant, it's the water levels that mater.

It how high it can pump the water upwards above the SOURCE water level. It's the difference in heights between the intake water source(the top of the water in your tank) and the outlet water. So if your spray bar is under the water your head height is 0. That's because there is no height difference between the surface of the water in your fishtank and the surface of the water in your fish tank. The weight of water pushing down the intake matches the water pushing down the outlet. So there is no weight of water that the pump has to lift. If you raise the spray bar a foot above the water then it's the difference between the surface and the outlet. The pump has to lift the water that extra amount requiring more energy and decreasing flow. If you put the spray bar outside the tank and below the water leven then it's operating at a negative head. You have more pressure pushing down the intake than you have the weight of the water in outlet pushing down. So you have water pouring out, that's what makes a siphon work.

You can't change head height unless raise the outlet above the water. And any head height at all makes a lot of splashing and decreases flow. Now, if you're talking about the physical distance of the cannister below water level, that's not head height. But I can't see why that would make a difference. The extra water pressure might minimise cavitation a little but that's nowhere near an issue with these kind of pumps.

Let me guess? It's still sitting in your outbox? hehehehe. It stays there until the person logs on and reads it, at which point it moves to their inbox.

I doubt that it's measured at a head height of 1.8 meters. Looks like that's the maximum head which is where it cannot pump any water at all. A cannister in normal operation would be running at 0 head.

I remember the 2213 I had would flow about 200-300 liters per hour after a cleaning. Compared to Fluval 404s that were around 700-800. I haven't actually tested my CF1200s. Maybe I'll do that when I have a chance.

I doubt that a drip of water getting into it. In my experience when you get water creating a short it results in a nice little, inconspicuous *BANG* that will make everyone in the house bounce off the ceiling. So, my money is on a poor connection slowly heating up.

I'd say selling offspring or buds from plants etc if you were given the original for free is fine. Also selling the original if it's been a reasonable amount of time is ok. If someone were to give me a few fish they bred shortly after I'd be inclined to offer to give them a couple of the fry. I'd hope at least they'd do the same or at least some token amount What I don't like is when I give someone something for free, or sell it for cheap, for like bristlenoses for a buck since you know you're selling at a loss and just asking for a token amount...I expect the person to keep them. But when I sell a fish for a buck or give it to someone for free and then see it up on trademe with a $5 reserve each THAT annoys me.

And conures are *LOUD!* Quakers are just LOUD.

Yup, ours was $400, they're reasonably common.

You should get a Quaker, Caryl.

And don't forget if they're in a bad mood. My parrot ate a strip off my sister in law's lip when she tried kissing the parrot when she was grumpy. And I mean ripped a strip off then stood holding it in one claw nibbling at it.

Laguna? Why would you want to show off that cheap pump? Iwaki or go home!

Expanding foam is poly also. It's usually polyurethane instead of polystyrene like expanded polystyrene.

The only heaters I've had fail are jagers. They all leak. But, the one that failed didn't overheat the tank. It just collected a puddle of water in the bottom that shorted the nichrome wire. So it just sat there boiling the puddle in the bottom of the heater with the bottom couple coils.

Might have been better off using a hot wire or similar rather than scraping the eps?

Do they provide a boat? Because you're always gonna need a bigger boat.

No, more heaters or less will not heat more or less efficiently. 100 watt hours of electricity will always get you 100 watts hours of heat(When using resistive heaters) The reason for using two heaters is redundancy if one fails and, if you have a relatively stagnant tank it will heat the water more evenly.

Yes.

Yep, they're good. Inexpensive, good flow, good filtration. The CF1200 Flows twice as much as an eheim 2213, hold twice as much or more media than a 2213, don't clog up within days like the 2213 I had did. Not sure why you'd even compare it to a little filter like a 2213 when the CF1200 can handle a tank at least twice the size.