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Leave them, they'll probably breed again and you'll be getting overrun with bristlerats before too long.

Actually, someone on another messageboard posted that he'd bought some eggs for them a week or two ago. Different species than here I'm sure, but probably related. You might find more info looking for "Triops". They're sold in the US as pets similar to sea monkeys. From Triops.com Also, one of the google results is a post on the fishroom from 2007 asking something similar, someone posted this link: http://rsnz.natlib.govt.nz/volume/rsnz_49/rsnz_49_00_005150.html to an article on them.

Should be fine. You're not going to have a smooth flow directly from the spraybars to the intakes no matter what you do. It will big turbulent swirls all over the place. Might be a little calmer in the middle, but I doubt without putting something in the water to track it that you'd notice. What I've done with my tank is put about 4000lph of powerheads pointing from one end of the tank to the other. I think it probably keeps the tank stirred up reasonably well...

Hahaha, no, you can't compare internal combustion engines producing torque and wasting energy as heat to an electric heater creating heat with...What as the wasted energy? Efficiency is basically your desired product vs your wasted energy, which always ends up as heat. Unless the heater is creating vibrations or light that are escaping the tank before being absorbed by the water or the tank and turned into heat then it's going to be turning all the electricity into heat.

Tastes kind of fishy and crunchy. I think it's just tetrabits or whatever the previous few names of it have been?

I think when I bought a 1lb can ages ago I calculated that buying brineshrimp in the little vials from the LFS would cost about $500. Pretty good deal at $50 for a can.

Then where is the wasted energy from the other heaters going? The only way a "300 watt" heater can heat better than another "300 watt" heater is if their actual average power draw is different. Resistive heaters are always 100% efficient, if two are actually drawing 300 watts while operating the only way that one can "heat better" is to stay on longer. If one of the heaters due to thermostat being heated causing misreading switches off occasionally and averages only being on for say half an hour every hour that will add 150 watt hours to the tank every hour. But it would still be a "300 watt" heater because that's its peak power draw. But it will draw 150 watt hours for 150 watt hours heating. 100% efficiency. But if another has a more accurate thermostat it could be on that full hour and add 300 watt hours to the water ever hour. Also 100% efficiency. This would only happen if the tank wasn't up to temp though, both would just sit around the set temp adding the same amount of energy as is lost at the same efficiency using the same amount of power.

If you're digging holes you're doing it wrong, you only need one.

Better heaters aren't going to save electricity. Wattage in=wattage out. They're all 100% efficient.

Sounds like you have an actinic. There are basically two types of actinic bulbs. One is a relatively normal fluoro around 20K. There's white actinic: It looks like a very white with a blue tinge tube. Then blue actinic: which is basically nothing but blue, which is what you have. That's probably the real actinic. I'm not convinced taht they're better for coral growth given that they usually have a very low PAR rating. But that do really bring out the blues in the tank. Want to make your tank look really good you need a black light.

An hour? Do nothing. The bacteria in the media won't die for a few hours. After an hour I unplug the filters. When the power comes on I'll give them a really quick clean and connect them up again. After 6-7 hours find some blankets to throw over the tanks. After 12 hours give the water a bit of a swish every once in a while to airate it. Not much else needs to be done.

Turn off any airation, Aim a flashlight from the bottom of the container upwards. Wait 10 minutes for them to swim down towards the light, siphon them off through an airline and filter them out with a brineshrimp net, pantyhose or similar. You'll end up with an orange mush of brine shrimp. Dump them into the tank. No, you're not misinterpreting anything. Buying the little tiny containers from a fish store is ridiculously expensive compared to something like a 1lb can of brine shrimp eggs.

They don't have particularly big ears.

Yup, but books on caring for them are completely legal.

To begin with, you don't add just water to cement. But cement is just the glue that holds the mixture together. Roughly you add lots of sand and gravel for the cement to glue together and you get concrete.

How deep do you want to fill it?

The Bituproof plus appears to be asphalt based. Not really something I'd likely want in my tank.

Awww, I was hoping you'd come in and say, "What? It's not my bday!"

I used to lose probably half of the fish within a couple days when I got small fish if I only acclimatised them for an hour or so. Now I do it for about 4-5 hours and haven't lost any of them. I just float the bag in the tank and add a cup of water fr the tank every half hour or so.

It won't really stick very well to perspex or glass. Silicone doesn't stick to perspex either, btw. But it should be safe to use.

Just plug the heater back in, it will still probably take hours to get the temperature back up. Should be fine.

I don't think there are any petshops in central wellington. There's Animalz in Petone, Hutt Pet Center in Lower Hutt, Animates in Kaiwharawhara. A couple over Porirua way that I don't go to often.

Usually what happens with biological controls, See also cane toads.

Really? Copper is generally even more dangerous in sw.