alanmin4304

As above. The pressure of CO2 is not enough to overcome the pressure of the water on the submersed diffuser.

It is caused by a virus and therefore antibiotics are of no use. It is by all practical measures incurable.

Looking good so far.

Looks like affinis to me.

Welcome.

The dwarfs are a bit more tricky to keep.

Welcome back

I use it for breeding locusts and crickets as well so I buy it by the sack and get the fine stuff.

I use green sphagnum moss in the hides and hatch the eggs on vermiculite.

Be aware that Elodea canadensa is permitted but Elodea densa is not.

I think most people's leopard geckoes will be brumating at the moment (including ours). We hopefully will have babies nearer Christmas.

You pull up the button on the top, put the jager heater/ thermostat in to water of a known temperature then when it has reached the temperature of the water you turn the dial to that temperature, then you push the button down again and set the temperature to the temperature that you want and put it in your aquarium. All of this is done with the heater not plugged in.

A couple of nice looking leps.

Last seasons young ones, yes. They started to go into brumation by themselves so I figured they new more about it than me or Mrs Google.

Mine have not eaten for about 6 weeks---they are brumating.

With an aquarium you can have a "dry" land mass and an area of water that you can warm up with a heater. That water (especially with an airstone) will also increase humidity.

I know someone who does the same thing but uses a standard aquarium with gladwrap on top. Natural sunlight helps.

Chlorine is a very strong oxidizing agent and reacts with all sorts of things. This is why monochloramine is added to water supplies in some parts of the US instead of chlorine. It is not as good a disinfectant but does not form as many nasties on the side. Our water may not be pristine at source but generally lacks the nasty chemicals from industrial polution found in many other countries that will react with chlorine to form even worse chemicals. All water other than laboratory distilled water contains chemicals that form the "chlorine demand" of the water. This is the stuff that reacts and forms mono then di then trichloramine before you actually get any "free available chlorine". When you stand water or aerate it you will drive the chlorine of and the equilibrium moves back all the way to monochloramine and this is what people smell when they think they are smelling chlorine. When a swimming pool smells like that people think that too much chlorine has been added but atually the way to fix it is to add more chlorine and drive the equilibrium up to trichloramine. The only way to get rid of the various chloramines is to add sodium thiosulphate which then produces minute quantities of colloidal sulphur,sodium sulphate and hydrochloric acid all of which are less toxic than chlorine or chloramines.

Welcome,. You must have some big tanks.

The signs you see in the first picture can be caused by internal parasites but also the emaciation and pinch gutted look can be the first signs of piscene tuberculosis which is infectious to other fish but also is zoonotic (can be transmitted to humans). I would destroy any fish showing those signs and quarantine the rest.

Welcome and we hope you enjoy your time here.

An excess of phosphate over nitrate can be a cause of algae problems so getting the balance is the thing.

probably your ferts are the algae problem

If it was financially viable to import aquatic plants chances are someone would be doing it. I know of a few people in Christchurch who have done it in the past but no one is doing it now.

To my knowledge they are not here and not likely to be legally here.