Rockerpeller

get a builder or someone-in-the-know, to check out the joists etc. you might have to get the floor strengthened up. safer then 800ltrs of water going missing and a massive hole where the tank was meant to be. :lol:

another thing to remember is the difference in voltage. sometimes they can get products that are the right voltage for our mains. otherwise you'll need to get an adaptor of some type.

as will i. ok who wants ambulia? lol trimmed the tank again. damn thing is overgrown...

i have set my heaters up in the same way. do not go off your thermostat indicators on the heaters. i have learnt that most of the time these are wrong. set the heaters differently ie. hotter on the heater thats closer to the outflow from your external filter if you are using one. for example i have set my heaters at 27-28 degrees on the heater that is closest to the flow and 25-26 degrees on the other end of the tank. rely on your thermostats that are independent of your heaters ie totally separate thermostats. my tank sits at a regular 25-27 degrees constantly. its only a 230-240lt (roughly) tank. this set-up works for me. don't rely on 1 heater for such a long tank tho.

yes it would. as far a a pressurized system would go, there is a member on this forum whose deals are fully worth it. but as you said pressurized set-ups are pricey, but worth it in the long run. since price is they key go with a diy yeast set-up. not as efficient as a pressurized system but they work. which is all you want to look at right now in the set-up you currently have. and yes the fert balls will help but they do need regular maintenance etc ie. regular instalments(sp?). also look at liquid ferts and maybe a lighting upgrade if you want to go for a planted set-up. sorry for making this sound complicated, it really isn't once you have the requirements. once the foundations are done in your new set-up you will not be disapointed as they can be quickly moved and set-up in new locations as you move.

ok... not to put a damper on co2 set-ups or anything but go a proper co2 set-up if you're considering a pressurized set-up. to start off try a yeast set-up. also look at undergravel ferts. saves alot of time and money in the long run

i've never tried it. i gave up with chemical substitutes after reading this forum and realizing that they aren't really essential. you save money just waiting it out and letting the "cycle" catch up with the ammonia build-up. just remember there are people on here that most likely have gone thru what you are going thru right now and have learnt from it. this forum is an awesome place to get advice and share wisdom. it has definitely shown me a thing or 2 about fishtanks i never knew before. chemical substitutes are not essential unless they are under extreme circumstances. even then they are not needed as a water change can help out almost any problem whether that be as low as 20-30% up to 80%. it all depends on the problem you are going thru. maybe a little more info is needed as to why you are asking about ammo-lock to give you some experienced advice regarding using it. don't think this is a attack on you. i used to think the same thing until i realised it was all to help me with my hobby. but whether you take the advice is totally up to you.

welcome to the forums. its ok you're not the only person that started out that way

:lol: what a thread topic name. looks good rozski. how are you going to set everything up? planted etc.

sounds like an air pocket in the propeller housing. my jebo used to do it alot. have you tried priming the intake hose?

damn thats an awesome background WEKA. Great use of the SCWDs as well.

you can set up a red cold cathode system. just use the red cold cathodes instead of blue, in a moonlight set-up.

lol cardinals?

skimmers for most coral tanks... yes... Altho with a nano or other small tanks, ( which isn't such a good idea for a beginner) large weekly water changes seem to work without a skimmer.

just to bring back an old ghost but SAEs only eat the new growth. they don't bother with the old stuff. also if you go SAEs, try not to let them get any flake (really hard i know). otherwise they leave the algae alone. must taste horrible. :lol:

is the tank in direct sunlight? if it is, shift it out of the sunlight. or they can use a UV filter which will kill floating algae such as greenwater etc. another alternative is load the tank with plants which will use up all the nutrients in the tank, which in turn will starve the algae. I'm not sure about this last one, as it works for my tank, but it may not work in theirs. someone else here should know. Can also try fully covering the tank so no light gets in, for a few days. this won't harm the fish. can someone confirm this, as i'm sure i read this method somewhere on this forum.

looks awesome!

Welcome to the forums Everyone here are really helpful so you should find all the information you need to know.

I'm currently using it as well but with a bigger bottle. But I would rather have a purpose built set-up. This set-up does work but it does have its faults

send the shop owner an email. you can find it in the commercial section. I'm sure he can answer the question for you.

welcome to the site. i'm sure someone on here can help with the plant hunt.

condensation. Altho i'm not sure about the GLO products. Condensation will reek havoc with electricals. havin it mounted in the stand or the back of the hood will tidy the inside hood up a bit anyway so you have fit more T5s later on.

HaNs : I was going to go a similar design. Post up a thread about your progress thru the build up. Should be a really good read and help a few people out that use the same types of lights. Rozski : Found the meaning of ballast on wikipedia. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Electrical_ballast

2 endcaps per tube. I'm still not sure what ballasts actually do myself. i just know they are needed for any tube or high power light. and everything you just stated above sounds right. those should be all you need. altho another 2 tubes can't hurt later on, 2 will do for now. the great thing about hoods are that they can be upgraded . Have you had a read about Power Compact lighting? might be worth a look, but i'd say your on the right track with the T5s.

I know its great that its getting cheaper. :bounce: I almost had a coronary when I saw the initial price of T5s when i was looking at lights before.