Rockerpeller

~watches the post box very carefully~ I haven't got mine y.... wait.... wait..... no... b#$&@r.... Start again tomorrow :lol:

this thread will help. not sure on curing process tho. try sending a pm to BlueandKim. http://www.fnzas.org.nz/fishroom/iquito ... 23385.html

its going good. got the new sump in place which has upped the total water quantity to around 120L-130L (haven't worked it out yet as I'm adding rock to the sump). currently doing the touch-ups on the lighting. really don't wanna rush it but its pretty hard not to. lol auto top-up will come after the lights. currently just topping it up to a vivid mark on the sump.

welcome to the forums and you've come to the right place to get questions answered.

if you were thinking of going saltwater later on, i'd say sump. sticking to freshwater, the cf1200. thats my 2 cents anyway

oh yup. i get it. sorry its a monday... :lol:

well it depends on how it is going to be set-up. if its going over the lip, it will have to be a full syphon just to get it up and over the side of the tank, if its thru the glass then yea, no syphon is needed. looking at the pics, it looks to be a syphon overflow. but as davidb has said it may not be enough flow for your tank. bigger pump will not go amiss here.

how high will it be from the sump to the top of your tank (I take it you'll be going over the side of the tank)? that may just do it but will it keep up with the overflow?

the required head height will slow that pump right down to a trickle. what you need is a pump with a decent head height limit. choosing a return pump all depends on head height. if it puts to much flow into the tank a simple tee fitting with a tap leading back to the sump can control the flow.

i had the same thing happen to my twisted val. its growing like crazy now. i think its just from damage in transport.

for perspex(acrylic), i just go around the corner to tarndale grove in albany. they usually have an off-cut bin at the perspex place there so i ask if i can raid that. it all depends on where you are in auckland. Yellow pages online will help you find someplace that stocks it. as i was saying before it would be easier to set-up the over-flow elbow inside the tank before you do the box. that way you can see how big the box needs to be as well as make sure you can get your hand into it to remove the elbow if need be. once thats done everything else is much easier as you definitely know what measurements you have to work with. also most people just have the comb going right around the top of the box. it works well and i guess it gives less area for oily film to build up ie in the corner of the side that doesn't have the comb.

make the overflow, then see what room you have to work with. also make sure there is enough room to pull it out for a clean as well.

Very low... but informative. Could be a bit extreme moving them around. thats if your planning on using them to transport some of the original water to your place... otherwise they would be good for storing stuff in.

I'd like to know too as i have a couple that I'd like to try to breed

Here ya go,

Everyone screams Deltec, but the price may be roughly the same over there so you may as well try and find a 2nd hand one here. try look for temp controllers, auto top-off etc gear over there. may save you a few $, who knows.

Thats a bit snobbish, don't you think Layton? Instead of picking sides people should accept there are benefits to all the marine sites in NZ. It can only help the hobby more than hinder it...

I think most of the tanks on this site would be illegal if thats the case... i know mine would be. its just about over-run with the stuff!

don't overturn that tab. if you go too far it won't come out. line the arrow up square with the "open" label, and take your time pulling it off. it'll be pretty hard to do after it has been ran. what i do is turn off the intake from the tank, turn off the outflow, move the filter to the shower (saves getting my tank stand wet) then open both taps to let the pressure out. then try the tab and it should be easier. once its off do what you have to do with the filter ie clean the foam etc, reassemble, fill with water thru the tab til its full, reattach the hoses/taps, then crank it over. should be good after that.

Airlock plug. to let you get all the air out of the filter as well as fill it to the top. well thats what i use it for. lol

RO/DI means reverse osmosis/deionization refractometer is way more accurate then a hydrometer. looks like this

you can try cooking the live rock but as that stuff sounds pretty good, it'd be a waste of time. but not a waste of money as liverock usually sells from $10 and higher. as long as you have a big enough container, saltwater, a powerhead, and/or airpump to circulate the water around the liverock you should be able to get it now. also need to keep up with regular water changes. just make sure you get a refractometer to check the salinity of the water if your going to use red sea salt etc. also NSW is slightly high on the salinity scale and you may have to water it down with some RO/DI water. maybe someone on here can run your liverock in their sump or something for you til you have everything you need.

running an aquamedic t1000 or a reef octopus would probably be easier and cheaper for you. retail is around the $350.

one with at least 3000lph, and a high head height limit. at least 3m.

I have one. it needs a powerful pump tho