Rockerpeller

According to nano-tank.com that would be a 0.5G Pico tank.

i thought when it comes to ballasts you can overpower a bulb ie 70W ballast + 50W bulb. Well i was told i could run a 70w bulb on a 150w ballast, and that was from a certed electrician.

petworld has C. Racemosa according to there site.

don't drill the venturi if its the red sea. the venturi just screws out.

here's a good guide to cooking rock. http://www.thereeftank.com/forums/showt ... hp?t=66551

when the pump is on, it pumps the water up into the modded paper shredder bin thru the top bulkhead. the water then fills it up and goes back down the crude ( but it works ) durso. that little hole at the bottom of the pipe will let the water back into the tank slowly when the pump shuts off and the water goes below the durso pipe. (well from looking at the pics, thats my opinion). anyone else have a theory on this? EDIT: sorry found the rest of the pics so i modified this post a little

if you have val or twisted val, and you use Flourish Excel, don't they melt?

I can't make it also. acclimatisin some new additions.

using angle aluminium to make up a light rack to bolt the MH to would be a better idea.

any chance of creating a mat of filter wool and covering the sponge up? just gotta keep a really good eye on it. or a simple way would be to get a really cheap powerhead and cover the intake with filter wool. $10 brand new is the cheapest i have managed to find.

lol heard c*#p hit the fan or something on there. major banning spree etc. could be all a load of c*#p but its speculation at the moment. :lol:

what type of filter is it for starters? a hang-on filter would be easy to put the wool over the intake with a rubber band or something. internal filter may be a bit harder.

uv filter would clear it. or putting filter wool over the filter intake pipe(just gotta remember to keep changing it). loading the tank up with plants has worked for me in the past. ph test the water you are using for the water changes

don't risk it. 6mm glass isn't that thick. we have 10mm glass on our spare 3ft and i still wouldn't risk not using a centre brace.

i have 2 and its showin mini-bubbles. currently running filter wool to take care of it, but i know its just a temporary solution. plannin on adding a third baffle soon.

i know its alot of lighting for anemones and clams. check out the search feature for the rest. bound to bring some useful info up

deionizing. another form of water filtration

lol a better one. leaning towards a deltec but would settle for a RO as long as it fits in the stand. but that comes after an RODI filter. just been topping up with puredew.

still really good. the hermits are keeping the algae to a minimum with the help of the snails and coraline is popping up here and there on the back wall. and the the 2 shrooms and xenia that hitchhiked on the rock are growing pretty big now. still waiting on decent bulbs but they have been organised and its just a matter of funds for now. Just got a new job so hopefully there will be some better components very very soon ie skimmer, pendant light etc.

bingo :oops:

na its ok. i was in the same boat when i started looking at a marine tank as well. you can start a tank using either "base-rock" or "cycled-rock". "cycled rock" already has bacteria in it, while "base-rock" doesn't as it is sold dry (the bacteria needs moisture and oxygenation to live). it's cheaper to use "base-rock" as it hasn't been cycled to have bacteria in it, although using a mixture of "base-rock" and "cycled-rock" will speed things up as the "cycled-rock" will seed the "base-rock" which will eventually turn it into "cycled-rock". You with me so far? Having all the rock as "cycled-rock" will speed up the cycle even more. damn that was even starting to confuse me a lil :lol: and you can start a tank with any rock "cycled" or "base". it just alters the cycle time

"dry" live rock would be dead. otherwise known as Base Rock. using it will make the cycle longer and you'll need to start the cycle with something.

:lol: i only knew the barbel part. lucky i didn't end up with 4 False SAEs instead.

try putting the heaters in high flow areas.

other then the 2 you have tried, try origin aquatics. thats the last place i tried for em. i managed to come across 2 real SAEs that were advertised as flying foxes. way to tell is: 1. a true SAE has only 1 set of barbels coming from their mouth unlike the flying fox which has 2 sets. 2. a jagged black line down their side to the tip of their tail unlike a False SAE which stops at the beginning of the tail, and the flying fox which is straight and broad and has a gold stripe above it. 3. all of a true SAEs fins are clear. I ended up with 2 SAEs and 2 False SAEs :-? wish i had of known all of the above info when i went hunting for them. Its also better to go and look for them yourself as they tend to get mixed up because they are so alike.