Caryl

According to an article Sharn wrote, aviverm is levamisole. Dosage suggested was 1.5ml per 7.5L of water when using a 7.5% solution. She got hold of a 24% solution so used 1ml per 22L. She adds - NEVER attempt to pull the worms out of the fish as they are anchored to the intestinal lining and will rip it. Here is what she did... Do 90% water change, vacuuming the substrate very well. Add levamisole at the required dose (she mixed it in a litre of water first then added it to the aquarium) Wait 48 hrs. If fish look unhappy do a water change at 24 hrs. Do another 90% water change and vacuum (gets rid of the nematode babies)

Have you tested the water? The other fish may die next if you don't know, and correct, the cause. Perhaps the pictus was more sensitive so went first. Check you pH, ammonia, nitrates and nitrites

The tank is still cycling and your poor platies are very stressed. Clamped fins are a sign of stress. The white spots are probably white spot - caused by the bad nitrates (and probably ammonia as well). Water ager only removes chlorine from the water so isn't needed, or useful, unless your water supply has chlorine added. Do not go adding chemicals to the tank (like Ammolock or anything) but get some white spot treatment and follow the directions on the bottle. Some people turn the temp up to about 28C temporarily as this speeds up the whitespot cycle so hopefully you can cure it faster. Do daily 20 - 30% water changes to get those nitrates down and hope the fish survive the process. You added too many fish too quickly Are you siphoning the substrate when you fdo the water changes? This is important to suck up whitespot cysts and muck.

Some of us don't have chlorine added to our town water supply

Oh dear. Another one bites the dust :lol:

I could do that easily. This room gets up to 28C in summer but the water in the tap is from way underground so always very cold.

IT'S SPRING! :bounce: :bounce: :lol:

Smidey perhaps you have different balls? :lol: I thought of the filter wool but then wondered if it would clog too quickly.

Try boiling it rollergirl

Only until it grows

I hope you feed them more than A flake 8) You should have more females (2 or 3F - 1M) than male guppies as the males harrass them continually. If you don't want fry, return the females and swap them for all males. More colour and no fry to get rid of. The corys and tetras are shoaling fish and would be happier with companions. Have at least 3 corys and 6 glowlights. You will find the tetras a lot more active, happy and colourful in a group of 6 or more so I would get more glowlights.

I was wondering about adding more and hoping as the bacteria grew it would muffle the rattle. Since it isn't my filter and won't be in my house once cycled, I'm not too worried 8)

I am cycling a CF1000 on our tank and the noise of the plastic balls drives me nuts!

There are also other clubs http://www.fnzas.org.nz/clubs/ Evil has someone sent details to Cees or Warren to get the clubs page updated with your club added?

Can you suck some up with an eye dropper and squeeze them directly onto the fry?

Acne? 8) If it is just one spot with a bit of luck it will heal on its own. If the redness has lessened perhaps it is healing already without intervention.

Hi and welcome Vippy

According to the FNZAS Plant Survey booklet, starwort is a native with a temp ramge of 10 - 16C. Two kinds of leaves are found, surface floating leaves form bright green rosette clusters and submerged leaves are longer and narrower. It is common along stream margins and/or creeping over mud.

Hi and welcome.

Dwarf white worms? Stunted growth due to underfeeding? :lol: I understand grindal worms are small white worms so I think you might be right.

Which killie did you have in mind? Usually killies are kept in small killie only tanks and only one species of killie in each. Different killies live for different lengths of time but not as long as most other tropicals. If the tank is display only it won't matter what substrate you use. As long as there is a heavy planting providing shade you can have the lighting required for the plants yet still provide the shadowed areas for the fish. Run the spraybar just under the water level, enough to ripple the surface. A 403 in a 250L tank will not provide a massive amount of current anyway. Which orange coloured algae eater? I can't think of any orange ones. Different fish eat different algae and if your tank is set up correctly you will not need algae eaters. Good to have bottom feeders though. Any plants you like will suit. Do not have ammonia remover in the filter while the tank cycles. How are you planning to cycle it? Do not use carbon either.

It is usual to join the nearest but not compulsory. A number belong to the NZ Killifish Association which is a postal club only with members nationwide. My own club (Marlborough) has had members from all over the country - often as they had no club close enough to join. Currently we have members in Taupo, Gisborne, Asbburton, Stoke and Texas USA 8)

Boy, I thought I was going nuts for a while there but I was right! :lol:

Peat is usually used in a bag to lower pH, not as a substrate. Not sure how you would keep it down and still enable the fish to dig. Perhaps some 'natural mud' from a stream would be helpful?

Quite possibly me! :lol: I am at work but will re-check my letterheads when I get home. I could have sworn we were Aquatic :roll: