kiwiplymouth

50% water changes every day should fix your problem

I have to agree with Zev. In my tanks neither pressurized CO2 or Flourish excel have had any negative impact on my Val. Others will tell you the complete opposite so perhaps its a matter of the concentration of the above or the chemistry of the water that you grow them in. Trail and error is your best bet, using small doses at first and slowly adding more.

So this was a trip with a heap of drugies eh :lol:

Your swamp Lily looks similar to this http://www.trademe.co.nz/Home-living/Pe ... 957492.htm

The attached link is a "must read" for info on HITH http://www.worldcichlids.com/diseases/Adamhith.html

I agree with what the others have said but I would add a calcuim rich diet to the list as well as ensuring the water contains mineral salts. Check out Aquadur plus This is from the petmart web site

Yep that's exactly what I mean. I do it that way on one of my tanks and the CO2 is completely diffused during its travels through the filter. I.E. No gas bubbles coming out of the spray bar. With your high tank temps and sensitive fish you probably need to run an air stone 24/7, I suppose the best way to minimise your surface agitation would be to make your air bubbles as small as possible.

The less surface agitation the better when you are injecting CO2. Surface agitation helps vent CO2 into the atmosphere. My air stones are on timers and only turn on when the lights and CO2 are off. This is all subject to stocking rates of course, If you need an air stone on during the day that's fine but try to make as little surface movement as possible. A bubble counter is a necessity IMO, it allows you to accurately measure the amount of CO2 that you are injecting into your tank but if you don't want a diffuser you can always release your CO2 into the intake of your FX5 and let that diffuse the CO2 for you.

You should give it a week to cure properly.

The link that I posted is of a fish that is only 10 inches long not 6 feet

edit: double post :oops:

http://naturalplane.blogspot.com/2009/0 ... tfish.html :lol: :lol: :lol:

I got mine from Ebay. It's identical to, and from the same seller as the attached link, Yes it comes with a needle valve. N.B. Prices are in $USD. http://cgi.ebay.com/CO2-regulator-solen ... 3a5b4f4c9a

I don't have a drop checker either. But I do use a bubble counter. You are aiming for 30ppm co2 in your tank. Coincidentally 30ppm co2 will lower your PH by 1 point. I take a cup of water from the tank after the co2 has been running all day. I test some of it and leave the rest sitting over night to lose its co2 and then test that. There should be approx 1 point difference between the 2 tests. I.E if the 1st test was 6.5 then the second test should be about 7.5. To achieve this in my 3 footer I am using about 35 bubbles per minute of co2.

Instead of buying a whole new regulator which is expencive why not just buy a needle valve and plumb it into your existing regulator. One like this should do the trick. http://cgi.ebay.com/Needle-Valve-CO2-Re ... 2a03e7244d Of course you will need a new regulator if you want one with a magnetic solenoid valve that turns the co2 off when your lights turn off but you can always turn yours off manualy each night or even just leave it on. I have recently set up my own co2 system, I purchased a 3 way splitter so I could run co2 to 3 tanks from the same bottle.

Which brings me back to my original point. To have any idea if lighting is adequate you also need to ask. "How deep is your tank" and "what is the colour temperature (kelvin) of your lights" I.E. I may be able to grow glosso in a 10cm deep tank with a 30w incandescent bulb but not in a 100cm deep tank with 200w MH bulb. and If I am using 30w of 4000K light in one tank and 30w of 10000k light in an identical tank my choice of plants that will thrive in each tank will be completely different.

The pic of the female here http://www.theoscarspot.com/viewtopic.php?f=25&t=16430 is very similar to mine so I am hopeful Yep the plants are doing well mate. Last week I added a 14000K MH which has really got them going and is bringing out nice new red leaves on many of the swords etc.

This is his new partner that we think is female. The are definite differences in lower jaw shape as was as big differences in finnage and tail shape. The has been no aggression so far, just plenty of flaring from him.

I have had the same thing happen and fixed it the same way that Mark has suggested. I made up some wire brackets to hold the glass in place while I siliconed it and left them there until the silicone had cured.

Agreed. But I feel that you are simplifying things somewhat or should that be somewatt Without getting anal about stuff I think that there are two other simple variables that you should have been mentioned. 1) The depth of water that the light needs to penetrate. 2) the kelvin (k) rating of the bulb that is being used.

Thanks P44. This is one fish that will never leave my fishroom. I have what we think is an adult JD female being delivered tomorrow for some company and perhaps a bit of romance

Didn't DavidR get some recently ?

This is the same fish about about a year ago when I got it from kristof (vinsonmassif) It has grown fast which is another reason I am guessing male.

Does any care to have a go at sexing my EBJD? I am thinking male but I wouldn't bet my house on it

What is the fish at the bottom left of the pic ? A Killie?