Barrie

I just use the jiffy pots for my peat but I would take out the pebles as it makes cleaning a lot harder and they WILL kick out peat all over the bottom so there will be a lot of eggs in it

Again Thanks

thanks I will make a lid out of laminated glass to try to avoid the UV burning and see what happens Laminated glass will cut out 99% of UVa light although not too much of UVb. It will be an interesting to see what happens

thanks Dont forget that a couple of types here will breed at under 10degs

Could some one please tell me what is the lowest temp that Java Fern will live at? I have some killis that I want to put outside and was thinking of floating some on top of the tanks These Killis can live (and prefer) lower temps so they should be fine over summer

email sent Problem at this time of the year is time... At the moment, I have so muck work on my plate that I need the guys to work as much OT as possible and we will still be lucky to complete it by Christmas. If its not urgent, then no problem

Rough? is it a nipped edge or not dead flat? Photo?

Opps :oops: :oops: :oops: I havnt been in here for a while (this section) and was rude in not welcoming you. I am sorry A belated welcome anyway

good point Alan I remove the tape normall after 6 hours or so as the Silicone has "gone off" enough to allow this to be done carefully

no interuptions.... yes quickly, within reason. Dont hurry as the silicone will be going off slowly but you also dont want to muck arround Most tanks are built from the base up. bback goes on base, both sides next then the front. Put a strip of masking tape around the ends to holh it all together. Make sure that you feel the base on the outsides to make sure that the sides are lining up (dont just rely on looking as the silicone will be a bit deciving) Silicon takes 1 day per mm of thicknes to cure so if you put the tank together today, dont think about filling it for a week. This also allows the fumes to come out. After 24 hours, look through the glass at your joins for air bubbles and see if the air bubbles all join up which will allow a possible leak, these may need touching up. Dont put the bits together then pull apart and back together as this will create air bubbles and therefore leaks Make sure that you clean the glass as much as possible before reconstructing as cleaning now is easier than later

agreed 2 to 3 days more with scuba gear

No worried Evil Alan, I have started another culture off in a poly box that looks like its going to do the business but the easy of your boxes are great to use

17 spiece of Killis Bristlenose and daughter has Guppies Albino plain albino snakeskin pandas

43 tanks at the moment and possibly another 40 to 50 next year for the rearer Killis I dont breed numbers, just keep them ticking over but the worms are eating a slice of lunchon every 2 days

You guys probably dont know how lucky you are down there Its not the way that your sheep look or the way you obtain rugby players from all over the place, Its the white worm cultures that Alanmin builds... Almost enough to want to make me move south. Alan made me one a few months back and man does it work well, If anyones visiting Auckland from down there and feels like bringing up another box, please let me know as I will need to talk to him Thanks Alan

:oops: Hope youve joined the NZKA?

Hope your joining the club mate Dancing bah... thats nothing, you should see mine play the keyboard :oops: :lol:

any light machine oil is fine

Its really easy to remake, it just takes time So, yes if you are to get someone to do it, it will be dearer than buying a new one. If you would like to "have a go"then feel free to ask and I (and others Im sure) will try to help. You dont need much in the way of tools, a blade (the snap off type are probably the best) a rasor blade (the stiff back ones from hobby shops or glass merchants) and a glue gun

Try Pilks UK Pilks NZ are like Metro (my supplier) and are just retailers and whole sellers. Another person that is considered the godfather of glass is Alan Sage who works out of Metro Central and is a contracted advisor. Just out of interest, The floor in the Sky Tower is 25mm think and NOT toughened but is laminated. The makeup is 12mm/1mm interlayer/10mm this has nothing at all with the subject but I thought some may find it interesting :oops:

one of the exciteing things about the Nothos are that when you finally wet the peat, within hours your taking fry out. To see the fry just appareing from "dirt" I find really rewarding Im sure that if you were also to PM ej from these forums, he may be able to help with eggs from Nothos

if he hasnt got a clue, its because he hasnt bothered to read the manuals Maybe I should look at a copy and paste of what we have to go by... I will look into it There are a lot out there that dont love the trade but just treat it as an income just as there are go mechanics and those that fix cars. I love my trade and am working on new glazing methods for the instalation of double glazed units. I only know of 2 others that can be bothered doing this. I suppost that what both Warren and myself are saying is that there are good and bad ways of doing things, the good ways have plenty of strengh and are based on figures, the bad ways are from those that just do it to make money? An interesting thing though has come to surface and that is that both Warren and myself are using 2 different types of data from the same manufacture. I will be emailing them to see why there seem to be conflicting information

no need to bump just waiting for the call

Warren I dissagree. who knows better than a glass merchant on the strengh properties and weights that glass was design to hold? Feel free to contact PPG (USA), Pilks ,Glavabel, or a host of other manufactures for their recomendations. Part of my advanced trade cert (4 years plus 6 months) was on aquria and loadings (not on spelling though :oops: )

ASgreed Alan The Silicone is probably breaking down and its time for a total rebuild... for piece of mind