Barrie

the answer is yes at leaset one spiece is around but they normally only go to breeders

to begin with, put them in a container with a lid and float them on the parents tank. The other method is far better in the long run but the simple method of floating works untill you have got use to keeping killis... my thoughts only

I take it that its 10mm glass? Silicone takes 1 day per mm of thickness of joint to cure so its ok after about 10 days

you will probably need to rough the poly up so the paint can "key" to it will need to undercoate it possibly as well

Do Killis see at night... in other words, when feeding the fry in the evening and then turning the lights out, is it a waste of time, effort and BBs or Micros

opps :oops: Sorry, saw your other post. There use to be some at Mercer south of Auckland so just guessed you were up this way and was going to mention to call in and say gidday... maybe in the future eh

were you up this way Paul ? Auckland?

Maybe I should also put a photo of a purchase I made today as well? an ironing board :oops: :lol: I told the checkout person that it was a birthday pressie for my wife (Brenda), she didnt bat an eyelid

credit cards are good but they dont remove all the build up andin order to stop rapid regrowth, you should use a scrubber of some sort Glass is not quite as smooth as most people think and the minute holes on the glass's surface allow "things" to get a foot hold. If you have a glass shower, it needs to be squeeged after every time its used and that allows a build up of white lime on the surface. Not quite the same in a tank as the water never evaperates to allow the lime to build up. I have a product that we use but things like RainX for car windscreens are great on a new shower... note SHOWER not tanks. I would recomend giving it (the tank) a scrub every week with a scrubber of some sort although in breeding tanks, I think a certian amount of build up is usefull.

Thats the one Wok the top photo thanks as it saves me a bit of photo work Beware of the plastic type scrapers as to be honest, the use of them by people, especially comercial cleaners, is worth more to my bussiness every year than storm damage. the problem with them is that they have a blade that is so strong that when they get damages with even the smallest nic or bump, the blades are so strong that they scratch the glass. The razor blade type as per the top photo in Woks photo is by far the best as they are a lot sharper and will clean a lot easier and the blades are thiner and therefore not as strong so they will bend around any dents/nics. I hope this is not taken as being critical of the artical, it isnt I assure you but is meant to help you keep your tanks (or any other glass) in better condition. The first plan of attack must always be for soft pads but if all else fails and as a last resort, if you relly need to, use a razor stiff back blade

thats the way But next time your over my way, call in. Im normally there from 9.30 untill about 1 in the afternoon but If I know your coming, I will make sure Im there

to add How long should you leave the water in a barrel like that before useing it? Ive been leaving it for about a week?

when daughter has about 50 baby guppys in a tank and another lot arrive, dont tell your wife that you've put the guppy fry in with your King Killis... she talks and dobs me in :oops:

Im training mine as well and send them to the naughty corner if they jump.. What I need to do is train my SJO's not to come close to the tube when Im vacuming the bottom of the tank. Lost 2 this morning, felt a bump and looked into the bucket only to find an SJO with a broken back and whail I was curseing my (and the SJO's ) luck, felt another bump When they were smaller, they kept far away, now that theyu are 25 to 30mm long, they havnt got the sense. Opps sorry Paul... stolen your thread

In the raceing pigeon game, some people in a Korean Uni bred mother to son then their off spring back to the son and so on for 42 generations or thats when I got out of touch. They had problems at about the 16th generation and had a lot of culling and slective breeding at that stage. After another couple of generations, the problem dissapared and up untill the 42, there were no more problems. When you look at annuals, the gene pool is extreamly small yet few problem exist so my guess is that provided there is no breeding from the poor examples, close breeding and inter breeding will probably not be a too greater problem. I would still jump at the chance to out cross, Hybrid vigor and all that stuff my 10cents worth I now duck for cover

the Green Daimantor cutters are as good as any and normally cost about $4.50... well thats what I sell them for any way. Alans 100% correct about the cut and only one should be made. The main problem people have in useing a cutter is they hold it incorectly (hard to explain in writeing) and dont really know how hard to push. BTW, we only use the green Daimantor cutters and although we have bought the self oiling ones, we always turn back to old faithfull Again, Im happy to show anyone thats interested how to cut glass... no charge, thats free even

would pay to ph first as Im supposted to be away on Wednesday and Thursday at the Barrier fishing, I will send my contacts by PM

be my first so am looking forward to it Thanks for your efforts

Just bought one yesterday from the Plastic Box in New Lynn here in Auckland. If there is a "The Plastic Box" in ChCh, try them. The one I bought is brown in colour and use to contain Olives... not sure about Popeye... so I figure that if it had Olives in it and we eat Olives (well on Pizza anyway) it had to be ok for the fish

If your in Auckland some stage, get in touch and I will show you how to cut. When your cutting, always start your cut 2 mm in from the edge as most cutters are "stuffed" by starting them over the edge of the glass. With the hardness of glass, this creats a "miss" in the cut and this sounds like what you have. If thats the case, the best use for the cutter is as land fill. as I mentioned, let me know when your up this way and I will give you some pointers

Paul, why 20 mm poly? I use 10mm and buy stock sheets of it (2400 x 1200) for $5 I would expect that 20mm would be double that at the most. I have wrapt my tanks in it except for the front as all my tanks are heated useing heaters If you come up to Auckland at any time in the near future, I could pick some up for you when Im passing. Expol in Chruch St Onehunga

the quality of the cut is often reduced by people not really knowing what they are doing. Use an older cutter, one that is new is too sharp and will be normally use by experianced glass cutters for cutting thiner 2 and 3 mm glass. Use Inox or a light machine oil to keep the cut "warm" and make one firm cut. Put a straight edge under the cut and put even pressure each side untill it snaps. Glass has a greater impact strenght than steel and will last for many years but as Warren mentioned, real old glass has been altered by a flowing effect and because of its slightly uneven thickness, becomes a little harder to cut. The other thing that makes glass hard to cut is the method of manufacture. Older NZ made glass was made useing a meathod called drawn. The glass was drawn vertically from a bath of moulten glass and this method makes the glass hard to cut due to again its uneven thickness as well as the grain within it. Things like machinery and even earth movement will effect it. Nowdays glass is made useing a float system where the glass is floated ot on a bed of tin and the quality and cutting properties are of a much higher standard. Is the cutter your useing in good condition? and is it a an older cutter?. When your useing it does ithave little misses in the cut? I take it that the glass is out of the frame? Most glass companys will offer a cutting service and that may well be worth while in takeing advantage of although they may well charge you (well would you give away free labour, it dosnt pay the bills) (I have a glass company and have been in the trade for 40 years)

Evil With the water circulation, they is a very small veriation but only maybe 1 deg At the moment, I have yet to set all the air hoses (will be done this weekend) so there is a larger difference but as there is nothing in the tanks yet, its no problem

I post in a few other forums and dont have this problem so it has to be something really simple thanks Paul

Help please Wok