Adrienne

MAC is the Marlborough Aquarium Club of which Caryl, myself and others are members hence the question mark Its a branch of the FNZAS which these forums are part of. Any way welcome to the forums. For face to face contact join up with Auckland Fishkeepers

Given the heavy workload of myself and key contributors to the magazine, we are reluctantly reducing the frequency of the magazine to two issues per year. Each issue requires significant input from a small number of contributors and we would rather complete two issues to a high standard than to struggle for content for 4 issues. As things currently stand the issue preparation and release dates have proved to be targets rather than deadlines. Two issues per year will be a lot more achievable and less stressful for the editorial team. If there is more support for the magazine in the future then we could look at increasing the number of issues. As has likely always been the case we could do with more articles, more regular contributors, and more editorial staff. If anyone feels they would like to become a regular contributor or take on one of the editorial roles feel free to contact myself or Jennifer. The magazine is a great asset for the FNZAS and we will aim to produce two quality issues per year. The next issue will be released early next year followed by a special themed issue in the middle of next year. Darren Stevens Editor Aquarium World

Possibly. That is a very good age for a fighter in captivity to get to.

pH always drops in established, planted tanks. Using coral or even shell should pull it up to about 8 but remember that the amount you have in the filter will reduce as the acid in the water eats away at it. The rating on canister filters is the amount that the filter can pump with no media in it. The amount and type of media will reduce the flow accordingly. The 1200 works well on tanks between 90 - 120 litres in my opinion (having used them for a number of years. Powerheads have a constant flow, wave makers have a controller so the flow rate and pattern can be varied and controlled. I am using a RW-8 in my 250 litre marine tank, it pumps it out and I can control the flow speed and pumping pattern. Bristlenose will be fine as long as it has caves available and you acclimate it to the higher pH. The yellows won't harass it any more than other fish would.

For total turnover for a cichlid tank aim for 8 - 10x the number of litres. Push as much as possible through your canister filters to aid the tank maintenance but power heads a great for dead spots in the tank.

The fancier ones are genetically modified, suffer many health issues including swim bladder problems so if getting fancy ones please do not feed them flake. Feed them sinking pellets as when they come to the surface to eat floating flakes they inhale air, it gets into their swim bladder and because the internal organs are squashed, the fish struggles to release gas. The fancier the more modified.

A sump is a second tank located generally below the main tank. Pipes run between the two and the water runs out of the top tank, through several different types of media and is pumped back into the main tank. Heaters etc are usually also placed in the sump.

Amazing images as usual Robert

This time of the year, with longer days and brighter light, tanks do tend to get green water (algae). Doesn't have to be direct light even so if you can keep the drapes pulled in the room it will help. Blacking out your tank for three days - no lights, put something really dark over the tank, should deal to it. Fish can survive not being fed for this time as well. If nothing else works you might have to look at a UV steriliser.

Yes they are sensitive.

Two things - Ammonia, nitrates and nitrites are all negligible - Ammonia and nitrite should be at 0 otherwise all the fish, not only the cory will be in trouble. However this is unlikely to be the main contributor to your cory deaths. Your dwarf chain loaches will most certainly be the culprits. Loaches and cory are not compatible. Chain loaches nip at every opportunity and are well capable of taking the eyes out of the cory. I would suggest that it has taken the four months for the loaches to build up the confidence to start causing trouble.

Our FNZAS President Jennifer features in this book. Despite losing her entire breeding setups she cared for numerous fish in plastic bins in her garage for some time. http://www.nationwidebooks.co.nz/produc ... 1927145500 Animals in Emergencies : Learning from the Christchurch earthquakes, ISBN: 9781927145500 -... www.nationwidebooks.co.nz

The second or third shipment of CF1200s in several years back had a fault - a minute crack in one of the taps hence the leaking reputation. Hasn't happened since to my knowledge. I've used all the CF range and would go 1200 on anything over about 90 litres. The flow is not massive by the time there is media in the canister but they do run well and parts are easy to come by as so many people have them. I'm also currently running a sun sun back up to my FX5 - runs well. Ironically it also came in with a cracked tap.

One flake at each feeding I hope. Flakes are not the ideal diet, small pellets are better. In the wild fighters catch insects etc so something with some protein in it is much better for them and a variety of foods. If you overfeed the fighter will bloat and that can cause real issues.

I wouldn't be worried if he hasn't eaten for one day but he should not be fed a 'lot'. What do you feed him?

It depends on what caused it to go cloudy and whether it is temporary or permanent. Can you post a photo?

Good idea - keep it in for at least 21 days as that is another life cycle. You are doing well

Just being nosey really. I did the same as you and I still have algae and diatoms 12 weeks in to the tank. Looking forward to reading your progress reports and seeing your pics

Just wondering why you are not cycling it in the tank itself to save any die off when you move it.

It's glass - pays to research using google. Where are you drilling? If its still under warranty, drilling will void it.

Google is great http://www.nzfrogs.org/NZ+Frogs/Introduced+frogs.html Just remember, once you catch them or tadpoles you can not release them and they should live for a number of years. They will croak, i your mother doesn't want to have to listen to them then I suggest you wait until you leave home before you get them.

Waterchange again and add salt to help reduce toxicity. It might be too late but at least all is being done that can be. Airlines if available as well.

I think getting an autopsy would be a good idea and also a water sample tested if any of the unchanged water was kept. It is unlikely to be 'old tank' syndrome (which generally shows as high nitrate levels) if tanks are running on separate filters, as I would imagine that like other fish shops, tanks and the substrate would be varying ages. Is it every tank in the shop? Whats the phosphate reading of the tap water?

Here are a few photos of some of my corals taken today. Most are still small as came as frags.

Yes big water changes and gravel vacs, use prime when replacing water. Thats always the first thing to do when an issue arises and you don't know the cause. A large pH swing will cause excessive slime coat. Are they all running on the one filter/sump system?