Adrienne

Hollywoods often have them in, the wholesalers may not have them available atm. Give them a call. Also give Ron at New Pupuke Aquarium Centre in Northcote a call and see if he has them.

As tanks mature the pH tends to drop anyway, providing you have nothing like rock with lime in it. Driftwood helps lower pH and keeps it stable, as does peat in the filter. CO2 also lowers it but it a more expensive option and depending on the fish you keep they may not tolerate pH 24/7.

+ 1 to Alan Also, what sized tank are they in? How old are they and how many are there?

None of the sponges will directly help with ammonia, as in reduce it immediately. All they do is 1. collect the waste from the water and stop it returning to the tank 2. provide a surface for the 'good' bacteria to collect on hence assisting with the cycling of the tank. Water changes are the best way to remove ammonia + reducing feeding and keeping the stocking of the tank light until the full cycle is complete. You can get the standard sponges that you cut to size also, I just didn't scroll through all of HFF stock list. I use them in my 980 - saves me heaps.

You are correct about the cycling stage of the tank now you have replaced some media, it will have been knocked back. If you want to put some sort of sponge in take a look in the likes of HFF (if you are in Auckland) or your local LFS. There are packs of cut your own size sponges/carbon type sponges out there - this sort of thing, in various types of sponge which you might be able to slot into your filter. http://www.hollywoodfishfarm.co.nz/deta ... 6cm/m/947/ http://www.hollywoodfishfarm.co.nz/deta ... 6cm/m/947/ http://www.hollywoodfishfarm.co.nz/deta ... ads/m/947/ etc etc

I've seen this one and its a very very nice tank. You are also welcome to come look at my C-250 which has the sump at the back of the tank.

Where do you live? I you go up to the User Control Panel on the top right of this page and put your location in someone near you might be able to help. In my case I had looked at plenty of setups but it was information overload. I am very happy with my tank but every so often I look at my 5ft custom tropical and think about the conversion possibilities. But, then again I still don't know enough to properly convert it to a marine.

I agree Kinnadian but as a newbie to marines, when I purchased my C-250 (the first shipment to land here) last July, I had neither the knowledge about marines nor knew the questions to ask to be able to do it for myself. Only now am I start to work out where and how I might even go about doing a DIY. To me, the problem is too many items available, purporting to do the same thing and too many people recommending different ones as the best to purchase. FYI to date I reckon my tank has cost around $12K to get to where I am (the actual tank price was $3,600) - the difference between someone like you who knows what they are doing and someone like me who would like to have that knowledge

:thup:

Don't use powdered gloves, use food grade gloves and use gloves that are water tight - so up to your shoulders. If the water can get in then there's no point (in your case). I wear gloves in my marine tank as some of the corals I work around/with are highly toxic if you touch them, but I don't worry about long length ones as they are not necessary. The fact of the matter is that fish keepers should not have their hands in the fish tanks all the time - they should only be in there when cleaning the glass or doing a tidy up along with a water change so maybe one or two times a week. Apart from a person reacting to the water, arms and hands etc in the water will be opening up the fish to all sorts of toxins and infections.

There is an Executive meeting on Saturday 31 January at 9.30am. Executive, Club Officers and Delegates have been emailed the details of this. Clubs please do your utmost to ensure you have representation at this meeting.

Is there actually carbon in it? If so change it when it looks full of gunk as it won't work any more. Most people only have carbon to remove medications.

It appears that there should be a sponge - here's the link to the filter instructions http://www.aquaone.co.uk/documents/Hang ... lowres.pdf

I've read a lot of info on overseas sites about the 400 and it's all good. I have the C-250 which is the new one out and its a very good set up for a beginner. I should have gone the 400 - love the sump set up and it's a classy tank. Can see it happening in the future.

Flourish comprehensive is fine, that's what I use in my tanks with twisted val.

I think today and the next couple of days would be a good trial (I believe the Canterbury Nor Wester is coming). Get a bucket of cold water and sit it in the spot you are considering placing the new tank. Test the temp every few hours and see where it gets to. Keep going right into the evening. My chiller here really kicks in around 6pm as the house starts to be closed up for the evening.

Hi Isaac, Welcome There is an Auckland club which has quite a number of members in your age group. It's a good group and meetings are enjoyable. To make contact either pm Li@m on these forums or you can go to the home page above, click on the clubs section and get more contact details.

whats your Facebook page link?

Lovely fish and great photos. You are putting a lot of effort into breeding and the resulting guppies are awesome

Happy New Year

You and me both Phoenix - hard to forget the performance going on about you calling them Rio :rolfl:

If it's possible give them some breeze to let the leaves dry out. Auckland's climate at this time of year is similar to what you have been giving your plants. If I use the sprinkler on my strawberries etc I am careful to let the leaves dry out before covering them otherwise they become covered in the white mildew.

Plated are plecs - so some species of the plec referred to as 'Common'

Less humidity.