BK

Any one know of a good site with photo's so we can check. I'm having the same problem with my cockatoos.

I'll see how long i can leave them, final they have stop eating them. Does anyone add anything to the water ie vitamins for the fry. On chch town water filted with peat down to 6.0-6.4ph and next to no salt added. Cheers have a good weekend see u Monday. Go the Red and Black.

Cheers guys I think the nutrient value seals the deal. Just Mworms are so easy to culture. Other thing is start feeding fry at 5 days after they are on pair and can be taken off pair at 2 weeks?? is this correct.

Cheers Alan, give me something to think about.

Has anyone used micro worms for Discus fry first feed instead of BBS. Any other options????

Gay Kirbs, that's why they're white. Just the normal Cockatoo's as I keen on starting with solid stock. That male is looking really good and I'm sure that when the time comes he'll do his stuff and pass on the colour. Like you said the more colour less fin so with using standard female stock will hopefully get both down the line. Any one out there got a couple of female blue rams in need of a home as well.

Yeah should've said that I think these are sub-adult and that I already have 2 males one about 4cm and another that came from Alanmin at about 5cm. Hay Allan have u caught that female yet. Thanks for reply B&K so in these small fish black colour in checks is the only difference?

I've just got some hopefully female cockatoos about 2cm long. Is there any difference apart from fin colour from males to females?

You should see what some people want to keep parrots (birds) in and when u tell them all about their requirements they get pissed. Went in to Animates today and they had them (Pacu) labeled as something different and stated that they don't usually grow more than 8 inch in tanks, that and the water dragon that only had a small bowl to drink out of. Now the best thing to do is ring the manager and tell them that you won’t be going there again due to the conditions the animals are keeped in. That would be the easiest way as buying anything in the store supports this continuing even if it is cheeper than the LPS that takes the extra time.

Warren you stated that table top etc should have no more than 0.5mm out of square to plain. Timber tops will never conform to this as the standard is 0.3mm either side of aim sizes as standard and timber can also move upto 4% depending on mositure content. This could be what is best but does it happen. How flat are all our tops, mine included. I allways thougth a bit of poly goes a long way. What is the use/recommendations to use thicker poly for bigger tanks about? Just asking not saying anyones wrong.

Sweet as . Anyone have any thoughts on brass taps etc. Brass-Copper ??????

Have plenty of pressure, only using 30% now so can cope with valve. Would lose about 30ltr if over flows and can't run with less water as wouldn't have any excess to syphone out for water changes. Cheers for the help.

LFS only stock product for standard items used, ie air line and filter hose. Have never seen a LFS that stocks hose fittings etc

Yep coming out of sump back into row of 6 tanks. Not sure if Brass fitting would be ok for my Discus.

I need to find a valve for a 20mm tube so if my pump stops it wont become a syphone. I'm in CHCH so local would help. I have a brass one but not to keen on connecting this what do people think.

Yellow in the top half of the tail and some yellow also in the rear of dorsal fin.

They are getting every thing and temp is 27 I think. It just that the male chasers the other female away when he with one and then when hes with the other one the first one get it. Water change last night and put carbon in to clean chems out and found some eggs that had been fungus. This morning one has lost the white fungus out of its head but the one with pop eye still has a lot of white fungus around it. Well do another water change aand treat with salt and Aquaflavine.

I've had a male and 2 females for about 2-3 weeks and so far the male has attacked one female leaving it with pop eye and now an infection and the other female has a growth on it forehead but it still looks like he wants to breed. So far treated with salt, Malafix, Aquaflavine and currently Furan 2 for secondy infection. Migth go back to Aquaflavine and salt. These guys are already in the Q tank (3') so no where to split them up. What to do???

Luke, what good quality feed back with helpful hints. I keep my Discus at 28-30 and they are happier than 26-28 i have also lowered my pH to 4.2 in one tank to get rid of some problems i was having with parsites and they are looking so good now. Thank for sharing your good ideas with us.

Humer just trying to point out that loaches aren't as hardy as other fish. My point was that they "didn't like copper" not that you can't use it. I get fungus Discus eggs and while I'ld like to do something about this ie copper I prefer not to use it as copper really isn't good for the fish but can be used.

When they are climbing out to tank take the coins out. Snails aways find a way back so you need to work out who to control them.

I used peat. Have people had problem with peat apart from it floating and the ph water colour.

Forget Fastways, happy to delivery for Brooklands but not willing to pick up for me. Post haste or NZ couriers will do you well. Most courier firms are own by NZ post (PH, NZC that i can remember and there are more. Also try Sky road/ link???

Copper is used in a lot of remedies but I don't know the treatment times of hand. With using copper coins most of the snails will climb out of the water so u can just pick them out. Loaches don't like copper so I would be 2x50% water changers be fore putting anything in. I try not to use any thing that I don't have to so I leave the snails alone as they do a good job of cleaning up. They a probably feed of algae at the moment but once you get fish in there a lot will travel down to the gravel. Weekly water changers with a good gravel vac should keep them under control. If you have fish plants water and food you’ll get snails best to work out a way of controlling them with out chemicals as your question regarding loaches endeavor’s to do.

Snails do a good job of eating left over food that has gone in to the shingle bed, do you NEED to get reed of them?? You might find with loaches that they dig up plants but I could be wrong. If no fish in tank can use copper based products or some old 1 & 2 cent cons to kill them..