blueether

I hope I didn't cause the start of mountain minnow obsession? Not seen any eggs or fry from mine yet but with the bullies in there I probably wont, may just move them (or just a male or two and a few females) into the new planted tank to see if any thing happens

Ask three fishkeepers how to cycle a tank and by the time the third one has given you a different answer to the two others the first will have yet another answer You could well already have bacteria that are converting the nitrite to nitrate, hard to tell if you dont have a nitrate test kit I think I would recommend, only if you were going to spend the money anyway, getting ammonia and nitrate tests. The only time that you are likely to use the nitrite test is during a full cycle.

Mikey, I have moss and 2 koura in my ~430l tank and they dont seem to touch it, the hardest thing I find is keeping the cyano from growing on it :facepalm:

For my birthday I was given a container of various coldwater plants so have spent today cleaning down the spare ~50l tank and planting it. I got a list of what was in the container and have googled them so know what some of them are, but not all :dunno:, I have a feeling that some/most will grow too large for the tank. Tank is about 2/3 full here and you can see a bit of cloudiness from the sand, oh well.

How have you sorted it, new sump?

A good way to look at a auto WC is this, you are adding the water before removing any: 100l tank at 100ppm of nitrate (or salt etc) (lets keep the math simple ) add 1l of 0ppm water and stir nitrate (or salt etc) is now at 100/101l or 99.009901ppm just above Squirt's example Now remove the added 1l and start again I can't be bothered to work it out but I would think it works out to be close to 50% reduction for each 100% WC

I would use a T and ball valve, that way the extra water can pass over the bio-media/liverock/etc and benefit from the extra filtration.

The world is a virus? or the fact that pic replies are catching

Yes that was part of my thinking. My poor fish must have a screwed up circadian and Infradian rhythms with the tank lights coming on at anything from 6am to 5pm and turning off sometime before 1030pm (or all night if I close the door and unremember to turn the lights off)

It's normally LA that posts the odd pics to others posts, what is the world coming to?

True, but if I turn it off I can bypass it and have more flow through the canister filter - not that I need the extra flow I guess.

Hello all you local saltwater keepers. I would like some input from you regarding temps over winter (for native freshwater) and thought that you guys may have some thoughts and input on the subject. Please see (and discuss) here: http://www.fnzas.org.nz/fishroom/viewtopic.php?f=41&t=58216

Now that the weather is cooling down I was thinking of dropping the temp of the chiller down to sort-of match what is happening in the real world. The temp is set at 17 deg at the moment, what it ran at all summer. I was thinking of maybe dropping the temp by a deg or two each month over the next 5 untill the temp is about 10 deg. I would think that with the two 5000 l/h wave-makers running all the time and with the CF1200 plus a 3200 l/h powerhead the temp will stay warm-ish even over winter. But in saying that the cf1200 is outside so should help with cooling over winter, and the pump is inline so shouldn't add too much heat. Then I though if I drop the temp too low I'll end up with a condensation problem like I have had a few times over summer. How have you run your chillers over winter, and what are your thoughts? Should I drop the temp down to 10 or have it a bit higher, should I even worry and just turn it off in a week or three if the temp wont climb over the current 17 deg?

I cant see why the current sump cant be made to work. If there isn't enough flow from one end of the sump to the other have the return pump split (like you have now) but have the excess water go back into the last chamber of the sump. Would that work? If there is issues with kinked hoses could you use a 90 deg bend or two? Hanson do them threaded and with barbed for hoses.

as long as the system doesn't have too much water in it

so that already has it's own powerhead? if that is the case I would just run any extra from the return pump back to the first chamber of the sump

Silicone cant be used for acrylic, it will let go after a few days/weeks. It has to be an acrylic cement (dont know if the PVC ones would work?)

Take it out of the sump and place in a car?

Here comes the choo-choo train if it is very young, or tell it wont get dessert? I think what was meant was 'drive'

That doesn't sound like much salt? Just looking at a post or two on a loach forum and it looks like it can go upto 1g/l and one post even said ~1.5g/l (all worked out from tea/tablespoons per gallon so are approx). [edit] Just re-read your post Tsp not tsp :oops: so you do have about, or just under, 1g/l [/edit]

taken the battery right out? (if it can be removed)

I find this hard to believe, do you have a scientific reference for that clam, journal not some random webpage? :digH:

The easy way to do this would be to (mostly) empty the sump, then slowly fill the main tank letting it overflow to the sump, when the sump is at the max stop filling the main tank. Is the second outflow working, looks like it could be a little high?

With this topic being the forth result on google for morley transport, they should be carefull and want a good result to mitigate the bad press. [the web geek's revenge] With a few tweeks of the first post (to summarise the issue etc) it could be very bad for morley transport's search results [/the web geek's revenge]