Caryl

Mine just sit on a glass lid under a plain reflector. You can also use the plastic guttering.

On my 4ft tank I have 2 lots of "bright white" or "daylight" tubes (the name depends on the brand) and they work well. They are the common ones you buy from wholesalers.

No idea gills as I have never used CO2 :-?

You can visit if you like, or I can leave the plants at AMAZONIAN's, whichever you prefer

I cood do that 4 u BK cos my speling is exsilint 8) I am still laughing at the Ministry of conversation mentioned further up :lol:

No he didn't say that jn. He said they are OK at slightly lower temperatures

Cookie extreme made a sensible suggestion yarimochi and wasn't insulting you. Marine keeping is complex and there are many "experts" out there who often disagree with each other on the way to do things. A good basic book is a great way to start. I have here The Tropical Marine Fish Survival Manual by Gordon Kay and Nick Dakin. I recently lent it to a new member of my club who had bought a marine tank but was confused by all the conflicting information online. She found it extremely helpful, easy to understand, and she now has 2 marine tanks and, so far, has not lost a single fish, coral or other critter over the months she has had them.

The Aquarium Wolrd magazine (which will be out in the next couple of weeks) has an article on water hardness. It talks about hardness, general hardness, carbonate hardness, temporary hardness, how to determine dH, and how to soften hard rain water. Generally speaking, most town water supplies are fine for both hardness and pH (there are a few exceptions) so it isn't something you need to worry about.

Welcome DKC. Our webmaster is Dutch too (as is another member, scalare). I come from the old wild west - of the South Island, NZ that is

Go to the lfs and find one that says it is for fungus. Follow the instructions on the bottle. better to isolate the neon and treat it on its own.

No filter likes rough stuff like sand going through them.

Sounds like it has a small injury which has developed a secondary fungal infection. Treat with an anti fungal med.

Funny you should say that wilson as they bought some rams last weekend but have them in a separate tank at the moment.

I thought giraffes were supposed to have longer necks? 8) :roll:

There is also the Chinese algae eater who leapt up on to the lid of a breeder tank floating in the main tank and, by the time it was discovered, had become a thin shrivelled stick after sticking to aforementioned lid and drying out under the lights. Took a minute to even work out what it was!

Yeah the BNs are too small as yet. Besides, when they breed they usually do it tucked away where they can't be seen 8)

My son and his partner have a standard 120L community tank and would like to breed something at the lower levels. They were looking at kribs but they can get a bit vicious. They have angels spawning regularly on the filter uplift but would like to try something else. Not sure there is anything that won't get eaten by the other inhabitants though (angel pair. gourami, harlequins, geriatric neons, bristlenoses and small tetras from memory). Any suggestions? I wondered about keyhole cichlids. All the livebearers tend to drop fry closer to the surface and they want a bit more action lower down the tank.

If you do not need the smaller tank for a while, transfer the old filter over as well and run it with the new one then just swap all the fish over at once.

The only time you clean your filter is when the return flow of water has lessened significantly. My Jebo 819 got cleaned recently - for the first time in 12 months. My son is about to clean his and it has been running 14 months.

I agree with evil.

If you read that neons are impossible to breed then it was a very old book

I just use dark aquarium gravel and have plants growing all over the place. No CO2, fertilisers or anything either

Based on freshwater only, at a temperature of 22˚C, total consumption for a small tank (38L) is about 150kWh (kilowatt hour) a year. A medium tank (114L) 150 - 200 kWh per year and a large aquarium (208L) 200 - 400kWh per year. This is using basic equipment only and merely an average to give you an idea. Exact usage requires an ampmeter, which measures actual energy used and not the energy based on the max output, as some equipment does not run full time (eg heater). watts/1000 x hours x kWh cost x 30 = 30 days cost of aquarium

Attack looks likely.

Do you mean you want to breed in bulk numbers in tanks rather than in the ponds you have?