Caryl

Is it possible it is being harrassed by the other angel?

In what way do you mean "easier"? If you have an established filter on another tank to use in the new one, and the fish load in the new one is similar, you can just add the fish as it will already be cycled.

I never took it as a criticism of the article Barrie, I took it as a helpful tip and good feedback. People need to know these things and if one thing is considered better than another, by a professional who knows, then we need to hear about it. Thanks for bringing it to our attention 8) A lot of people swear by credit cards, especially for getting off those hard green dot algae bits.

I have received the following comment from barrie after he read my article in the Aug Aquarium World about using the scrapers from the $2 Shop for cleaning aquarium glass... "as a glazier, the hard scrapers that you show in the AW mag bring me more business than storms do every year. Whereas scrapers are needed at times, the razor blade with a hard back are far better (and a lot cheaper) as the type that you have shown are far too strong and scratch the glass very easily." I am not sure what he means by 'blades with hard backs' so will wait for a reply. I have been using these scrapers for years with no problems but am careful not to get gravel or sand under them or they will scratch - but then, so would anything! Look forward to a fuller explanation please Barrie and maybe pics if you have them. What do the rest of you use?

They are not the same as mosquito fish so don't let those common names confuse you. I have only ever heard them referred to as leopardfish.

Leopardfish fry will eat finely crushed flake food. They will survive with the adults if there is plenty of fine leaved plant for them to shelter in. Mine were never as prolific eaters of fry as guppies or other livebearers.

Take half the media from the existing filter and swap it for half the media in the new filter. Half fill the new tank with water from the other tank (if you want) as well. Not a lot of good bacteria in the water itself though.

Whereas I drop cucumber in and leave it for days. They eat the main bit overnight then the skin slowly disintegrates as they nibble at it. Never lost a fish doing this yet.

Clown loaches get white spot very easily. Most suggest raising the tank temp to 28 - 29C (this speeds up the white spot cycle) and treat with white spot meds. Clown loaches and other 'scaleless' fish are sensitive to these meds and it is often recommended to dose half the suggested dosage if you have any of these fish. Remove any carbon from the filters before treatment too. The main thing is to work out what caused the white spot in the first place as 99% of the time it is stress - usually caused by poor, or incorrect, water conditions.

This is a family forum Tiden. We do not apperciate dirty pics being posted :lol: Looking good.

As long as you don't have angels in the main tank. They can suck fry through netting

Not sure any more smax. There was an affiliated club several years ago but since they left the FNZAS I don't know if they are still going. I suggest you ring your local Citizens' Advice Bureau to see if the club still exists.

I know it reached Tawa today too

Perhaps the wind (not to mention the hills) slows the posties down

There is little difference except in the salts added to the erythromycin (ie the stearate or phosphate). From a human point of view you could use either, and there is little difference (according to my GP) but I would suspect from a fish point of view you don't want to add more phosphates to your tank so the other would be preferable. A lot will depend on whether you can get any at all as it is a prescription only drug. I have a bottle here with a lovely label made up on it by my Dr friend at the hospital (who supplies me with a bit of erythromycin when needed). It says "Mr Guppy. Take ONE times daily until tank is clean" :lol:

I have Fluvals, Eheim wet/dry and Jebo externals and the Jebo is the best so far but it has only been running 18 months so I don't know how it runs long term.

These pills are usually 400mg each. I read articles that suggested anything from 400mg/100L to 250mg/100L I seem to remember using 4 pills in my 250L tank which was probably overkill but I didn’t know the dosage at that point and it certainly worked without harming the filters or fish. Dissolve half the pills in about ½ cup of water. They dissolve very slowly as they have a coating on them. Give them a stir every now and then to speed up the process. Once dissolved add it to your tank, swirling the water around to spread it quickly. The stupid fish will think it is food and try to eat it but don’t worry about that. You should notice the cyano dying off within 24 hours or so. It is important to keep siphoning up the stuff as it dies or it will pollute the tank. After 3 days, dissolve and add the other half of the pills, siphoning out the dead cyano remains often. People worry about it killing the bacteria in the filters but I kept my filters running the whole time and noticed no difference. I was told the bacteria in the filters is the wrong sort and is unaffected by the erythromycin. Something to do with gram -ve and gram +ve bacteria. Of course, the cyano may come back depending on why you got it in the first place. Mine was a result of adding infected plants so once I got rid of it, it didn’t return. Good luck!

Loopy, surely living in Wellington is a handicap in itself? :lol: It was suggested in chat last night (by a Wainuiomata member) that the Wainui mags could be couriered to her and she would deliver them. That way they would get them faster. If any club wishes to do something like this I would have no objection and it would probably save us a bit in postage, depending on weight.

You know I am not allowed big lots of chocolate or similar Something more along the lines of articles would be better

Any of the big external canister filters.

What should you look for when checking out tanks in a lfs?... Are they clean? Are there any dead fish? Never buy from a tank with dead fish in it. Are the fish swimming well? Fins erect? All got both eyes? Any sign of white spot or other diseases like blood on the fins, redness around the gills, ulcers or damaged scales? Are the fish in each tank with compatible tank mates? Paleness in a fish can indicate stress. Never buy a fish with clamped fins.

I only ever clean my filters when the water flow drops considerably. When I set up my Jebo, it didn't get cleaned for 12 months! Since then, I haven't cleaned it again (about 4 months later).

Malawi_Man, I might consider it if you grovel enough :lol:

To join the FNZAS you merely have to join an affiliated club or society. The Home Page lists all the affiliated clubs and their contact details. Easy. As said, if you are in Whakatane and are interested in killies, the NZKA would be the way to go. Send a PM to Alan as he is the NZKA club president.

I suggest you do daily water tests for ammonia at least. This way you will know how often to do water changes to lessen the deaths as the tank fully cycles.