sneaky2

DITTO!

tank way too small dude!

sad truth that a species farmed for food or pet, is a secure species. :sick:

Remember seeing them for sale at jansens some years ago,after maf shut down prawn farm,after ok-ing prawn farm,then changing there mind 18 months ish later, and 2million bucks ish spent on setup.... :facepalm: :dunno: :an!gry :slfg: :sick: :evil:

bollocks!!! the lifespan isnt shortend via metamorphosis. the lifespan is shortend because of either crap-0 water quality while morphing,or synthetic THYROXN. or ignorance(if i lower the water level it will morph) or crap husbandry after morphing!!! :facepalm: endangered in the wild,millions in the pet industry. if anybody wants ta morph one contact me [email protected]

aaaaand snakenecks,softshells(florida n chinese),murray river,sawshell, map,cogwheels,yellow head tortoise,aussie painted,ornata boxie uuuuum aligator snapping ah hang about that last one died out apparently. shure if forgotten some.

:facepalm: yup a bit late dude.

yea had a sturgeon back in the early 90s think they came in at the same time as chinese fire belly newts n asian soft shell turtles,had all of them back then when i think about it. siiiigh :facepalm:

if i can find the PHOTOS lol will scan n post. this was 24 or so years ago in australia.............. the last time i morphed them in nz was about late 90s (didint take photos then)the most important thing when morphing. other than natural thyroxin. is water quality as most people lower the water but forget about the water quality bad bad bad. once morphed the most important thing is habitat! with the right habitat they will live almost as long as un morphed axys. the only reason i say that almost is gravity suxs,so more stress on the body.and wrong habitat. after morphing they lose the ability to re-grow limbs and organs.so if you morph one with toes or limbs missing thats what you left with. in saying that i sold some to jansens back then(90s) and gave them the rundown on habitat n feeding e.c.t and they managed to ignore that info and kill them off within a month.as a result a nz author,when researching her book talked to jansens,then talked to me, and she stated after our meeting that morphing is tooooo specialised for joefishtank and as a result reguritated earlier book info to deter people from morphing. i tend to agree with her.hippocracy!maby. (cant be spelling lol)! so after morphing,specialised environment and care required! :sage:

was working on a fish farm mid 80s in i remember them telling me they had a whole clutch of axys morph naturaly and they had to nuke them for some legal reason.

you can metamorphosis axyolotles n they end up covered in gold silver n greenish spots but is generaly frowned apon.

sorry was drunk :nilly:

coastals or inland? huge difference...

cheers,getting this one gone, nice work on the viv setup!you got the eye,scale is irelevant. would like ta go back ta tanks one day...does work get in the way of life,or life get in the way of building enclosures lol

slowly dismantling,on hold till spring.

the end of a slightly insane era,last pics before starting to strip out big big enclosure lookin out the shed window. lookin back at the shed from inside enclosure. turtles basking. w dragons chilling. lookin right from inside enclosure excuse the sudden influx of pix,but borred as at work n got free broadband. wooo hoooo

another one day quickie a built for me brother in brisbane.

another one 110 hours later

cheers,getting rid of the monster(and pimp daddy) enclosure so had to finish this one first. lifes way to buisy to run 3 &c:ry :happy1: &c:ry :happy1: &c:ry :slfg:

8 or so yougish waterdragons and a young pair of coastal beardies....going minimalist this time :sml2:

me latest enclosure.took a while in fits and bursts,was lucky to score some concrete fiberglass rockwork for it,made for slow going when reshaping compared to the flexi rock,but nothing a grinder and mortar wont fix.

first up,what size enclosure? if 12hundy or 4 foot?(miniumum for hatchling to yearling)!!! throw away the heat mat,throw away the thermostat for tauranga. start with 60 watt light bulb.and fluro for u.v..... angle a basking branch/log so maby 150mm ish from the bulb to hot spot vertical (high point).angle branch/log down to bottom of enclosure. have fluro u.v maby 150ish away from the hot spot horizontialy and 150mm ish from the branch/log vertical..(e.m.f can mess with them) but hang fluro horizontal so w,dragon can find its u.v HAPPY PLACE.depending on tube u.v rating(they also seem to move from heat to u.v depending on feeding e.c.t) give them at least 8 hours a day.(8 hours artifical =2 hours natural,MINIUM REQUIREMENT.. dont forget well filtered water ( appease your techno streak with good bio filteration).if not , change daily!!!!! if w,dragon not eating try an 80 watt and up e.c.t. no night heat unless under 1 deg at night inside constant. for winter! if so either turn everything off so they can hibernate or use thermostat to maintain at least 5 deg constant night ish...good for lifespan,fertility e.c.t this info only good for hatchling to yearling waterdragons only. if they arnt outside by second summer, dont get one!!! and thats a minuimum 2m cube for outside!!..this is basic info only. dagnamit! i can see a waterdragon care sheet on the horizon. :facepalm: p.s excuse spelling :yaw1: :facepalm:

auck temps fine for winter.snakeys,reeves n red ears. as long as they are yearlings and have spent the summer outside,snakeys seem particularly cold tolerent and are still active ish when evereything else has gone to bed. i remember reading about reeves breathing through there rectum whilst hibernating underwater maby google rectum breathing terapins :dunno:

oooops just read the rest of it. barbarta seem to be almost a totaly different animal to vitties. from me very patchy memory they found all the way down the east coast.or at least as far as sydney(saw many there waaaaay back in 87) the brisbane type has a spiny tail compared to the sydney type. would seen to me the type we have over here is sydney or south of...all the ones iv bred and raised over the years are very cold tolerent(AFTER THE FIRST YEAR) and seem to prefer it that way. in the middle of winter when me waterdragons are hibernating,the barbas are still sunning themselves on a sunny day although not feeding.they start head bobing and mating around mid august while the waterdragons are only just emerging. the trick seems to be give them an elevated dryish nook or cave to hang out in during winter wet days,as damp wet ground environment(grass) over winter will lead to fungis in nz as aussie has mostly dry winter the more northerly you go..(more aboreal than vitties yes) in brisbane they seem to become active and mate around august,feed up, lay eggs and then when it gets too hot spend most of summer hiding from the heat and only coming out in the morning and evening.also noticed wild populations very skinny in august when mating n then stack on the condition over summer. in nz active all summer OUTSIDE....p.s all NZ observations from AUCKLAND(JAFA) NORTH. with no HEATING.