malevolentsparkle

an ehiem 2222 sounds perfect. you could even have the water cascading down some rocks if space allows. do a search for rapid biotope aquarium. for example: - http://www.wetwebmedia.com/ca/volume_2/cav2i6/biotopes_p1/biotopes_p1.htm several main rapid biotopes - african (as above), South American, central american. also check this page out: http://www.loaches.com/articles/a-river-runs-through-it lots of options, good luck!

oh oh make it a stream rapid tank. input one end output the other. fast flow. hillstream loaches, or whiptails. im sure others will have more fish ideas

tell us about yourself, what kind if tank/fish do you have?

200L with that bioload doesn't sound too small to me.

water changes! something has to be wrong to get that high nitrates, too much feeding or not enough WCs. brackish fish will not appreciate that much nitrates, watch out for diseases in the near future.

heard about the kaka sightings in albert park in auckland CBD? http://www.nzherald.co.nz/nz/news/article.cfm?c_id=1&objectid=10671173

Goldfish without a filter sound like a disaster. I would recommend all the water changes you can do, daily or every second day. what is the reason for not using a filter? Goldfish should be fine with tap water, they have been captive bred for hundreds of years. just avoid extremes.

best small tank I've seen in a while. nice work!

thanks that sounds doable. just need to get a carbon, nitrate and potassium supplement. got the trace.

So Ive got cyanobacteria in my tank. I know the usual causes and they don't seem to be the cause, so if anyone can help me that would be great: I do weekly(ish) water changes (around 15%), don't have high light (just 2x t8s), have a decent current (exp. where the cyanobacteria is), don't overfeed, and have plenty of plants. It seems to grow mostly on my wood. 1. I use proper pH 6.5 which has a phosphate buffer. could this phosphate be feeding the cyanobacteria? or could my tap water be high in phosphates? 2. I recently put a 6500K tube on my tank. This is a reptile tube so it has increased UV. I thought that the glass top would block the UV, is this the case and if not could the UV be helping the cyanobacteria along? thanks.

Im trying Hydrocotyle verticillata as a floating plant. still looks pretty messy as it was grown in low light before i got it but i have high hopes for it!

Was somebody looking for a blue jack Dempsey a while back? If so theres one at HWFF MtRoskil atm

Im no expert but I would say that they would be no way bright enough to be any use in a tank

speaking of brackish, archerfish are good value for oddball factor. great 'party fish'. haven't seen any for a while though.

is it dead? because it wouldn't make it any easier to hold if it was flopping around...

freeze dried stuff can be super concentrated, so be careful with giving too much at once. It can absorb water a swell up once in the fish's belly. some fish learn not to eat too much others don't seem to. hope this helps

no. 3. wow look at that fin shape, awesome

oh I never would of thought it would cost more. good luck with your project

wow lucky, not a common sight i would guess. http://www.niwa.co.nz/our-science/freshwater/tools/fishatlas/species/lamprey

bloodworms are high protein but not much else. processed foods are generally nutritively complete, just not as tasty!

saw some 44watt CFL at the supermarket the other day. normal 100W equivalents are only 24watts so these might be great for small tanks i am thinking?

is there a reason you have to use glass? how about plastic?

50watt should be plenty. the general rule is 1W/L, but Ive never seen a 35watt heater so 50w will do.

or a Anostomus anostomus? similar to a Leporinus but a bit easier going and smaller too. used to have one in a community tank with all sorts and no problems. not that oddball I guess though?

how about a Leporinus? there are a couple of species but this is the most common: http://badmanstropicalfish.com/profiles/profile1.html might get a bit big for your tank eventually however.