Cricketman

that aeration alone removes chlorine.... Alanmin4304 has written this over and over, and i believe this should be stickied, sinc it has been discussed religiously and is a mainstay of the "Newbie questions" (not to say that we mind people asking, just that it is a recurrence that has ability to become somewhat grinding)

Don't think Paul was suggesting that it should have a long painful death but rather that it would be a negative side to slug gun over a .22 or other methods.

step 1) invest in super-soaker 2) white vinegar and water mix (strong enough to get him to move, might take some trial and error) 3) Go to town with it when you see him, spray and chase, keep spraying him till he is off your property completely, keep an eye out and continue until it gets the message he is not welcome. If he hides, spray him there too, even into the next yard if you have to... 4) feed your cats inside (if you don't already) and make sure there is no food for the feral beast that might entice him to keep coming back. this may mean feeding your cats inside at night and picking up the dishes before going to bed etc. just until he is gone... 5) failing all of the above, replace white vinegar with hydrochloric acid and repeat above steps

lost my breeding group (20+) of lemon tetras like this, they are EXTREMELY sensitive to temperature changes. hope yours fair better....

upside down bottle means that the eggs flow toward the centre of the conical bottle and the lid where the air is coming from. helps ensure they are suspended in the water properly and help avoid dropping out to the bottom and not hatching. make sense?

trust someone to do it... :lol:

I only buy things I think I might have a chance of breeding or would like to attempt breeding. Your not alone! We meet on thursday at the pub.... :lol:

The rabbit looks like it's farting.... :lol: :lol: :lol: bloody good work though! I am impressed...

140 this month. thats 1 4ft running.... bahaha!

get them sluggish, heat a needle over flame, then singe the little (insert epiphet of choice) till they are all gone???

so the rule of thumb is that if you are not 100% sure that the mushroom is safe, LEAVE IT ALONE! take it from someone who has had mushroom poisoning...

how far away is so far away???

Researching black maire, it seems that it is a good wood to look out for. slow burning and great heat output should mean that it is hard enough and fire-resistant enough to handle... Rewarewa also seems a good outlook from what I can see, anyone know more on that? or Tawa... I have no idea about the availability of these woods, especially in a decent size block for carving.

I know its bad etc etc. but meant to be better than other smoking. Pipe and cigar tobacco is grown differently and handled differently. Less nicotine, and no added nicotine like ciggie tobacco's. and the wood absorbs a lot of the nicotine and tar. Also, pipe tobacco you don't inhale, it is a lot harsher. Ciggie tobacco is bred to be mild so that you can inhale it easily. I already smoke cigars on occasion, and thought a pipe would be nice to try out, and i enjoy carving and using my hands, so why not?... The wood should be hard, and preferably not inanely flammable (seems odd but Briar is used because it withstands higher temps that other wood would start burning up at). Manuka probably wouldn't work for the flammability aspect. Totara I didn't think about... Haven't heard of black maire, how hard is it to get hold of?

So recently I've been taken by the thought of carving myself a tobacco pipe. My Grandad used to smoke one and so did my father, and it just something I want to try out... Now to make a pipe usually your looking at briar/cherry/white ash.... What NZ native timber could I use? Just due to availability and i would like that extra association to make it special. Cheers in advance

limewater solution of a known molar concentration, added until precipitate is formed in a titration?? Make lime water by getting calcium hydroxide should be easy to get hold of some in the science lab.) and adding it to de-ionised water. distilled water won't work, it will still contain alot of dissolved solids that would interfere with the test. Calcium should be removed by de-ionisation process, so the only Ca you add is from the lime. D.I water should be available from any laboratory and your school should have a supply or be able to obtain some. By adding the lime slowly, and using measured spoonfuls until you cannot dissolve any more, you can figure out exactly the concentraion of the calcium hydroxide (lime) in the water. By adding this drop-wise to a sample of your tank water, and watching for precipitate (the calcium carbonate) you know exactly how much lime you have added to form the precipitate, and therefore exactly how much CO2 was in your starting sample. heres the equation: Ca(OH)2 (aq) + CO2 (g) CaCO3 (s) + H2O (l) There probably are holes in this theory, but i only just woke up. leniancy please.... 8)

spam their email with complaints about spam... :lol:

Don't believe a word he says!! ITS ALL LIES!!! :lol: looks like you guys had fun anyway! always good to meet new people... :bounce:

awww yea.... that your excuse is it??? 8) :lol:

THATS THE ONE!!!! I hate mind blanks! :roll: Oh, and the red light thing only seems to work on animals that do not have "cone cells" in their eye.

No, water from the geyser is fine, though the kiwi's would understand hot water cylinder... baie geluk

prettymuch what i was trying to get at! :lol: To be honest, I have complained to the SPCA about the treatment of many animals in shops. Their response is usually "did you say something yourself?" "well, that might be enough," or "we are too busy" or they do go take a look..... a week later. SPCA is also not going to hand out information to pet shop employees on how best to house animals. They may have legislation, but lets face it, they are not doing spot checks or enforcing it on shops (not to my knowledge anyway!) Education is the key, and a body like the FNZAS has a wealth of information, and the government and public backing (public sector can only grow with recognition!) to do something about it! Yes it is diverse, but I think Fish get the worst wrap of all animals! They can't howl or squeel etc, and with fish shops letting people think that 21L is okay for as many fish as they can cram in there. There is definately a trend, wouldn't you agree?

Most hunting shops should have red lights, apparently most animals can't see certain spectra of red light, and thus you can light them up at night (think deer/possums) and they think they are in the dark still. Failing that, a peice of "Gel" from a lighting shop (called "gels" in the trade even though they are a plastic). They are used for performance lighting, and can give a very good lifespan on normal lighting (MH burn through eventually, since most performance lights are MH) failing that! just get some red plastic sheeting stuff (the name escaping me right now!) and put it over your torch, not very high tech, but hey! any of them should work.

Apologies for yesterday Joe. (?) Wasn't in the best of moods to start with, and made myself look abit of a git. :oops: Good luck with whatever you get going!

In that case, your not going to have much change, and it won't be very accurate and is going to be susceptable to variation. but hey, whatever. :roll: if you weren't so impatient you could do a very scientific project, with good and reliable results that you could apply, but if your going to snap at those trying to help (even though we have vast experience personally and communaly) then carry on. my offer of help is revoked.