smidey

i think you are after 3M colour quartz http://solutions.3m.com/wps/portal/3M/e ... /Crystals/

Hi Ant Do you not leave a gap between the panes of glass at the butt joint? the glazier i spoke to told me i needed a 3mm gap between the glass.

the 2mm layers are on the veneer sheets not ply wood. The thickness of plywood is the wood plys which can be 2 or 3mm with the thickness of glue between each ply or layer.

ply has the two outside faces then extra layers in between to increase the thickness. ply is very strong to to the glue used & that each layer is rotated 90 deg which leaves the grain in the opposite dirrection & thus cause rigidity. "3 ply" is 4,7 & 9mm thick. "5 ply" is 12 & 15mm "7 ply" is 17,19 & 21mm, "9 ply" is 25mm & "11 ply" is 33mm. These are made of layers of 1 to 3mm wood & glue. plywood is wood all the way through. you can get "veneers" that are MDF or particle board that have 2mm of real wood veneers on the out side. that is what we use for timber panels for kitchens that have solid timber doors.

nah, mdf is 16 or 18 & ply is 15, 17, 19, 21 ......

i do te same but only change filter wool every 4 weeks or so. I do ahve a canister filter on my tank as well though.

i didn't use to change the temp in my tank. my tank has always been around 26 degrees.

that looks identical to my cf1200. it has 3 baskets, cf1000 has 2.

why? there has been alot of talk about plywood on here lately so here is some info. Marine ply is A grade plywood with a different laminatation glue. this glue (can't remember name) is designed for curving the ply, when heated (usually with steam) it loosens & when the glue cools it resets & the ply holds its shape. kinda like hot glue. This was created for marine applications, curving for bows etc of boats. Its designed to be fibreglassed over & IT IS NOT TREATED! they have renamed it "Premium A" Plywood now because of the misconception it is treated. Treated Ply is H3 plywood suitable for getting wet but not submersed in water. then there is the different grades of face, A,B C & D............... im bored now. Anyone thats wants the rest let me know.

yep, thats 19mm. bigger the better!

17 will be alot stronger than 9, 5 laminations of wood instead of 3.

it wont work, mine had an end to each pair & then would meet in the middle to scrap the return to their respective ends when they had had enough, it was pair against pair.

it'll be easier to get a piece of 17mm ply & be done with it. go to scooters plywood supplies on commerce st & tell him what you need, he'll most likely have an offcut

my company cuts about 120 sheets of this stuff a day, i have a small amount of experience with it

HMR is High moisture resistant not retention. the idea is it does not retain the moisture particle board & mdf are two different things, mdf is layered wood & formalderhyde basicly & particle board is particles of wood & formalderhyde. they are both excellent for panels for making cabinets. particle board is pourous which means it soakes up water but will also release it. MDF soakes up moisture & retains it which makes it go "fluffy" & will eventually disintergrate more than particle board will. Particle board is stronger & lighter than MDF & when it bows or curves will straighten, MDF will stay in its shape as the layers of wood create a grain like a natural piece of timber.

not when it comes to boys stuff, buliding, cars etc How far between the blocks does the ply have to span?

so what amps & speakers etc you running? At peak my sounds were a clarion double din cd/tape head unit with separate eq, an earthquake 700 watt rms 2 channel amp running two soundstream spl15's, a rockford fosgate amp running 2 pioneer impp 12's, another rockford fosgate amp running 4 cerwin vega stealth series 6's with parrallel run tweeters & a 1.2 farad phoenix gold capaciter to stop the battery going flat & head lights dimming. that was in 1999 in an integra & the sounds cost me around $12K, then my son came along & i became an old man. :-?

depends on where you want the current, i have mine at the top to disturb the surface so i dont need an air stone.

thats painted so has some water resistance. without seeing the inside cant tell but as long & you dont try to use it like a hand basin you'll be fine.

yes water can seep into the joins, a bead of silicone would be best. personally i have a tea towel araound my canister in case of leakage & am kinda careful about spilling water.

auction number?

what type? they only need sealing if they are raw mdf which most are not

are you thinking of making your own or assembling a premade unit? Making one would require cutting & drilling etc. A premade item would simply require a few panels being screwed together.

not at all

like anything, if it is made properly & if you look after it it will last. my aquarium cabinet is made from particle board. It is still fine after two years & im not to careful cause i can make one at work in very little time.