alanmin4304

It is where you add 40 mm wide strips around the top and bottom (on edge)

It is no problem to get a pressurised CO2 system running at the right rate if you have a normal regulator, needle valve and bubble counter.

Welcome back.

I would use european bracing at the top and the bottom (to double the bonding area where the pressure is greatest).

I think Ira is pointing out in his usual polite and subtle way that CO2 kits give off carbon dioxide, not oxygen.

Rumour has it that there are a few out there with some new characteristics which could end with different strains in a few generations. Haven't heard of albino though.

It is my understanding that lizards do not have xy chromosomes so DNA testing is not an option.

I do mine in sealed plastic containers with vermiculite. Not too many to a container (usually only a clutch of 2 so I know which is hatching). Open them every few days to give fresh air but retain the moisture.

He is prepared to replace with a male if it turns out not to be one---that is about as good as it gets.

If it is columnaris it is a bacteria and needs to betreated with an antibiotc. I think tri-sulpha is normally used but requires a vet visit and prescription. Furan2 can be bought from the petshop. Treat the whole tank as per the instructions.

I have always bought on the basis of an incubation temperature and that can increase the chances of getting a male . I have two males but they were not the ones incubated to get males.

I think it is perfectly understandable that some people wish to keep a few secrets to themselves if they are breeding reptiles on a commercial or semi commercial basis. Some people have invested a lot of money, time and heartache into their reptiles so why would they give away all their breeding secrets to someone who has just come along. It would be nice if people shared info but I can understand why many do not wish to. I have found most breeders to be very helpful once they know you are genuine. When I was breeding 50000tropical fish/year you would be surprised at the number of people who just want to come around to find out how to do it because they think you are getting rich so they can as well. You would have a better chance of getting rich with a lotto ticket (one in 3.8 million) I don't know the person selling but they have bred and raised offspring that look healthy so they must know something.

Sounds like columnaris.

The picture is of moisture inside the heater and it could corrode the make and break points and weld them together causing cooked fish syndrome

I was told by the original owner that 70% of the eggs he incubated for males (89 deg F or 32 deg C ) turned out to be fertile females. If you take the temperature up to 91 deg F you run the risk that any females will be super females and at 70 % it is not worth the risk. Super females behave like males (aggressive) and are not fertile.

Welcome

Mine are at 15 degrees C.

A small gene pool will probably encourage some new strains to pop up quicker.

I brumated 10 last season without a problem. That is other than not very good fertility which I think was caused by not brumating long enough.. They are brumating at the moment and have been for around 6 weeks.

There is a lot of variation and confusion over Val names I think. Plantgeek shows what I would call contortionist and google gave a straight leafed plant taken from the lake in Japan it is named after. Pays your money and takes your pick. If it is twisted it is OK.

At that age they should be at their peak as breaders. Have they brumated?

There are two twisted Vals out there and they go under various names. We used to call then torta or tortifolia and contortionist. The latter is thinner leafed, more twisted and more brittle. Torta is usually wider and shorter with less twist. As stated earlier conditions (including light and pH) can make them change.

If you ring the shop number the call is redirected to home for Errol

They need to be over 50 grams before you breed the females (preferably more) and mine were breeding at about a year. Their egg production starts to taper off after 3-4 years I believe.

I bought all mine from him and the females all laid 10 eggs each last year. It was a bad year fertility wise but hope to correct that this year. Mine were producing eggs as soon as they came out of brumation. What age and weight are they?