alanmin4304

Imported fish put into quarantine are not treated unless a disease is found. In fact it is prohibited by Maf.

In my view there is absolutely no point in treating fish with anything unless you have an idea of what you are treating. If there is no problem, what is there to fix?

Join the killie club. Then you can see who has what and will get priority for what is available.

I used to breed thousands of angels and corries and raised the offspring in bare tanks. Spawn the corries in a bare tank and they will act as better cleaners than snails, then add baby angels when free swimming. Feed both on brine shrimp nuplii and microworms. I have not added gba but they should be OK if you add vegetable food. You would need a large tank to raise a good spawning of all three together. A bare bottom tank makes it a lot easier to control waste and excess food. Hang a 150x150mm piece of slate near the top of the tank and the angels will probably spawn on that, then remove the eggs to a small tank with a drop of meth blue and an airstone. They can't get eaten if you remove them. Feed them every time you walk past the tank and do a water change on the way back.

If it is sold as 50mg it will be 50mg of active ingredient. A 50mg pill would be very small (50/1000 of a gram). Added to a litre of water would give 50mg/litre or 50ppm W/V active ingredient.

Welcome and enjoy your time here.

Could you supply a picture, it would help with identifying the problem.

It could be that the gills have been excessively damaged by ammonia etc in transit. That is why you don't feed the fish for 48 hours prior to transit. Gill flukes could be the other thing but I would suspect ammonia.

The plate is still there. All we need is a few in the know to step up. It is not set in concrete and can be amended as we go.

Goes OK on grandads old barby.

It is possible to include more than one way of doing things. People then have options.

Regardless, some people try to treat them like cuddly toys. They are still reptiles and are normally solitary and usually only come together to fight or mate.

They are better off in a bare bottom tank and most of the solid waste can be siphoned off.

Get a big tank and big external filter based on the size they will grow to when mature. UV less then 300mm from the area they bask on and a heat lamp will encourage them to bask. THE uv is no good if through glass or plastic so it needs to be direct. Build the tank so it has a good volume of water (easier to keep water clean) and the basking area is low enough so they can't climb out when mature. Hence the need for a large tank. Another way is to build a netting frame over the basking area and put the UV on to that.

I would say, by the giant strong feet pukeko. Could even end up as a TV star too.

I would feel better if some good advice from experienced people like yourself on how to do things properly was available here for those who do want to try to get it right. At least that way they have the choice.

You may be thinking of crickets. I have seen someone who was breeding locusts in poly boxes and they were poking their abdoman right through the boxes---looked like it had been hit by a shotgun

One of the problems with keeping reptiles in NZ is that there are few vets even that have a good knowledge of them and I would say that a vet has a proven qualification in animal husbandary. There are however a few people in NZ (some of whom come on this site) who have a vast knowledge of keeping and breeding reptiles even if it might be from experience rather than academia. I was hoping that some of these knowledgable and experienced people, either singularly or collectively could share some of this knowledge to be of assistance to newcomers to reptiles rather than a debate on who knows the most. There is always more than one way to do things and the right way is the way that works best for your reptile. Some good info on this site would be very useful for reptile keepers starting out. One of my concerns is that red eared sliders have become so cheap that they are in danger of becoming throw away pets and beardies, water dragons, blue toungues and leopards seem to heading the same way. A site like this can do something to at least give new people some good advice on how to properly look after their new reptile pets.

I do't think Maf and Doc are as retarded as some think.

If they were couriered to you it may be ammonia and nitrite build up while being trasnported.

Welcome and enjoy your time here.

It is brumation and the answer is yes. We are just trying to copy what happens in nature. They normally brumate when food is scarce.

Or a picture of blue/green algae that is red. A friend had a massive pond that was completely covered in it at one stage.

If you add your location it will help people to assist.

It might be a good idea for someone with a good deal of experience with reptiles to make a post explaining what brumation is, how it differs from hibernation, and how to achieve it. Bearing in mind that the conditions in Auckland are different to way down south. Once we get it sorted it could be made a sticky. I have a few lizards but don't know a lot about water dragons. It could cover water and bearded dragons, leopards, blue toungues and tortoises. Don't know about natives but if needed could include them as well. Could also include frogs. Who is going to step up to the mark?