alanmin4304

I turn the teperature down to the minimum that the controller will go to (15deg) and turn the lights off. I do this after the breedding season and after they have got a bit of condition back on. They usually stop feeding by then anyway.

I don't have one in there either.

At least you don't have to park the car in a slough

It seems that the temperatures may have been a bit high for brumation but I don't think it would do any harm to encourage him out of it after such a time. Sometimes they can be dosy for a little while before they come back to normal.

I have lights on 24/7 and not a problem.

I used to feed the guppies a new piece each day and remove the old bit if any was left.

I don't measure the humidity but I suspect that may be your problem. I started getting problems when I cut down on the ventilation to save power. As stated above they are also very susceptable to traces of insecticide. No use of flyspray if inside?

Welcome. It will good to see the finished product.

This place is here to have discussions and hopefully learn something. Please try to use it for that purpose and stay away from the personal stuff. I think you have all had your say and from now on it will just get more personal and go round in circles so I have locked it. Cheers

It does with a lot of people.

I made a carbon filter out of 40mm waste pipe with screw caps and let it siphon slowly overnight. What you are taking out is pretty volatile so can be mainly evapourated off before using again.

When you kill the nest in the ground at night you pour 1/2 cup of petrol down the entrance then put a shovel full of moist dirt over the top to seal it. You do not light it as it is the petrol fumes that kill them. I have killed heaps of nests that way but you do it at night when they have all returned to the nest. Fly spray contains a synergist which speeds up their metabolic rate and they become like syringes on P. You can also buy poisons which they carry into the nest. I can't remember when it is but part of the year you use sugar and the rest protein (meat) as bait. I must confess that mostly we used organochlorides which have now been prohibited.

Welcome and enjoy your time here.

When I was seriously breeding guppies I used to make up a food using liver, farax, heaps of greens and a few other things put through the blender then cooked like a steam pudding and frozen into icecubes. Worked well. Used uncooked it will polute the water.

My reptiles have carpet like that.

There is no way you will get chloramphenicol from a vet to treat fish. It is the drug of choice for treating cholera and they don't want a resistant strain. I tried to get it years ago when I imported goldfish and the vet told me it would mean her licence. I got a couple of other antibiotics but it took a bit of work. Back in the day we used to use it a lot. It is very hard to get antibiotics from a vet. They are supposed to see the patient before they prescribe and not many people want to take a half dead fish to the vet.

Also the importers make a living by importing fish and many of the approved fish are difficult or expensive to get through quarantine so they just don't bring them in. It is also getting more difficult to get fish through quarantine as maf reqirements increase on some species.

I know nothing about their plant eating nature but many plants will tolerate or even enjoy a degree of hardness and alkalinity including the ones mentioned and: Many Echinodorus sp. Many Crypts--particularly those from Sri Lanka and C. balansae. Lobelia cardinalis. If there is any around--I grew it for years but no one wanted to buy it. Possibly mouses ear (Cerurus cernuus) if you can get a decent plant instead of a wacked off leaf. Often as the hardness increases one needs to increase the light.

Now that they have air rifles out there with the power of a .22 it would make sense wouldn't it? Some of them are definately not toys.

They are generally pretty good parents.

There are a number of factors as well as a reduction in bore diameter that are required to make a good venturi as I understand it.

There are a number of genes around in NZ but the ones you might find here are the first and second, also marbles but without the gold or orange colouring. The first is a pretty average zebra lace silver and the second may be a white (double gold and double blusher genes). The others may be enhanced with dyes and therefore not permitted imports.

They are desert locusts and need it dry as well as a supply of water and a moist laying media.

Bad for locusts.

Love it.