alanmin4304

Welcome and enjoy.

It is like Rotala so if you do as you are told by the pointy stick it will send up heaps of side shoots and give you a new lawn. The bristlenose will love them.

I am not sure why but they seem to infect pond fish more often than in tanks.

I used to hatch them until free swimming in containers that were 150mm cubes. Don't feed until they "swarm"

It is many years since I used pot. perm. One of my older books suggests treating the whole tank at 2ppm which can be increase to 4ppm without problems. This is 2-4mg/litre. Leave for several hours then at least half the water siphoned off from the bottom to remove any that have let go and fallen to the bottom. It is a strong oxidizing agent so may reduce filter bacteria. Anchor worms are more common on goldfish in ponds. You can get pot.perm from the chemist so work out how much you need for 2ppm and then get two lots weighed up in case you want to double the dose.

I always thought that the water siphoned from the tank to the filter and was pumped back up to the tank. Because of this there would be no increase in static head unless it was pumped back to a level higher than the water level in the tank. There will be a slight loss of flow from the friction loss in the pipes but that would not amount to much. I don't think they work unless they are below the level of the tank.

When you say your tap water is 7.4 do you mean pH or KH because if you mean the latter it is not very soft.

Teenager being a teenager and a dad being a dad.

I think that will be more to do with the hysteresis of the thermostat than the rating of the heating element. I guess it is always possible that a poor quality heater may be claimed to be 300 watts when it is not.

Bore water is infinately variable like any other water source so it will not make the water harder always.

Jager are good quality but surely 300w is 300w.

I have not bred them--I have problems keeping them alive. I have seen a couple of people who breed them successfully and as stated above, the young are lazy feeders and they drop the water level way down and leave the tank pretty gungy. The contents of a hanful of moss might help.

Guilty your honour---BN.

Probably getting ready to shed. Just make sure there is damp sphagnum moss in the hide and watch that when they shed they get rid of the old skin particularly on the feet.

Wunder tonic contains quinine which should kill external parasites.

It bugs me that people use GH/KH in NZ. If you get a chemical analysis done here the hardness comes back on the report as mg/litre expressed as calcium carbonate. This is ppm w/v--which would probably annoy any real chemists out there. Tap water in Christchurch is about 45ppm which is about 2.5 KH and would be about 1/4 of the figure you quote.

He may be confusing pH with the German GH/KH. That pH would be like caustic soda or drain cleaner. In many places their drinking water is extremely hard. In Christchurch we have people breeding neons and other tetras in tap water which over there would be regarded as very soft. Should buy shares in a soap factory over there.

Good luck.

How long have earth minerals not been chemicals?

If it contains no chemicals or bacteria it must be water.

I will go with Hydrocotyle leucocephala as the stalk comes off the edge of the leaf on Cardamine lyrata.

I have no figures and the amount would vary a lot depending on what the organic chlorine demand was in the water.

It lasts about 3 seconds---as long as it takes me to biff it.

The chlorine demand on water from open catchments, rivers etc can be quite high and most of that demand would end up as chloramines. The ENEV amounts you quote are extremely small and way, way below what I would expect in most of our chlorinated water supplies.

If it puts a kink in a bacterium it must not be the favourite thing for the gills of a fish. Monochloramine is not as good a disinfectant as chlorine but it must be pretty good at killing things including gills.