Why did you put the double thickness of glass at the ends when the greatest force will be on the bottom of the longest piece of glass. Euro bracing would be better as well.
Agree with above but also algae can be cause by too much phosphate over nitrate. The phosphate arrives via the food and the nitrate can be removed by the plants therefore water changes will help.
A lot of shops down here have stopped stocking snailrid because people come back and say their fish are dead. The hardness has to be a certain level before use and down here the tap water is often less than that.
It has been a bad year for beardies. The female that we bred for the last few years didn't want to know this year and everyone I speak to is saying the same thing. Everyone will be into it next year and they will sell for $20 each.
LD50 of 300-500 mg/kg (oral,mice)
Be aware that most chemicals used to treat diseases in fish have some level of toxicity and should be handled with care. Wear gloves and try to avoid contact with them.
That plant is not very suitable for a tropical aquarium. You would be better off with other more suitable plants. The plant has rotted off at the base.
It is frequently grown and sold emersed and needs a lot of light to convert. I could never get it to convert in my setup. Good luck if you can--it is a nice plant.
Yes means availasble inNZ and legal
No means probably around but an unwanted organism and not legal
Elodea canadensis yes
Egeria densa no
Anacharis no
Ceratopteris yes
Pistia stratiotes no
Riccia yes
Salvinia no (not to be confused with our duckweed--Lemma minor)
Mine have finished laying and I am trying to condition them up then will brumate them when cooler. I didn't brumate mine the first year. Wait till the egg laying has finished and they have some condition back.
When the ambient drops a bit more. I have usually gone down to 12-15 degrees C which would not be easy at the moment. They generally start slowing up and showing brumating signs when they are ready. At the moment I would concentrate on getting them into prime condition.
I have not tested the chemistry but have not seen any problems whith landscaping fresh water tropicals with sand fron 50mm to 150mm in depth in heavily planted tanks and nothing other than microbes to disturb it. I had one operating with an undergravel filter for a long time as well (in the shallower area).
In nature this would exist at a lot of beaches and the bottom of streams but the bio load would be way less than what we are dealing with. There will be other unwanted chemicals around as well as those being dealt with so water changes will get rid of them
Some breeders will tell you they cull heavily and some do but most in NZ seem to breed anything to anything and sell the results. I judge this on the number of goldfish sold that are rubbish. Black moor nymphs and oranda nymphs---all of that rubbish would be live food in Asia.
It's 26.5. I use a very acurate digital electronic jobby that was not cheap but is accurate to 0.1 deg C. I use it for fish, incubators and reptile enclosures. Instant accurate readout.