reef

perimeter bracing (euro bracing is fine for a 4ft tank) Yes, it is the bracing that is used around the top of the tank. No center brace is used, it is called "Euro bracing". More popular over seas, but makes access to the tank easier.

Nice clowns.

That would be a big guess. Did you have hair algae before zeovit?? as i noticed that when using zeovit my hair algae went out of control in my sump as i did not do the weekly water changes.

If could be the new water you have added to the tank as seawater does contain lots of nutrients. i quess you must have made big water changes. I would just clean the glass and if your nutrients stay low it will go over time.

I just increased my temp to run between 27-29C due to summer coming, if you increase it now then in summer you wont get the big swings. so my temp will only go from say 28c to 30c max, if i kept my temp at 25c then going to 30c would cause problems due to the big swing. Chiller not an option as my power line is at its max for the room and so far i have had no coral losses due to temp. If you cant keep your temp under 30c then you will have to do something as this year summer looks like it will be a killer. At higher temp you also have to make sure you have plenty of water circulation as the oxygen levels are lower.

the strengh will be fine as long as you get 10mm glass and 10mm bracing,

why not get 10mm glass, 30 mm wide bracing going around the top of the tank, then you wont need any bracing in the centre, only 30mm bracing will be on the sides and the front and the back of the tank,

how big is your tank.?? you should get away by having 50mm bracing at the ends and a 100mm center brace.

i will take a full shot wants i can get a decent pic and clear some of the corals on the sand bed.

thats good, so just change the water every two weeks so that the waste gets removed. Make sure you have enough rock as you dont want to add any uncycled rock to your new tank.

Brush as much off as you can and put it into the new tank. Then make sure you have a good skimmer and phostphate remover. The algae will die away once you get you water quality right. No need to get the rocks really clean as it will come back anyway if you dont sort out the water conditions. If you got no coral then reduce light to a few hours a day for a few weeks .

Some new pics First 2 pics are with blue t5s on only Tanks readings are Nitrate 0 Po4 .04ppm calcium 420 ppm Kh 2.8 temp 28C salinity 1.025 2 x narva blue metal halide bulbs changed to BLV14k. The narva bulbs are ok but too blue . The BLV14k are really bright.. not the best look but great growth and it grows on you. Stopped dosing Vodka as Nitrates are zero and Po4 is really low. will continue to run rowaphos and my Sulphur nitrate reactor.

No problem at all, sometime a water change will change my tank by 2C. You will have problems if your tank is not in good shape as any more stress could cause whitespot,

I have noticed that sunlight is awesome, Makes my halides look really dim. Coral open up really well. Only problem is that if you cant keep a super low nutrient tank you will have major algae problems.

yep, that is why it is a waste of time trying to get calcium levels above 420ppm, just stuffs the kh.

I am not to sure about that, It comes down to the skill of the reef keeper which systems works best, Look at wayne shangs tank, pretty awesome tank and he does not have a problem as his acros are huge. He has about 3-4inch sand bed. You only see photos of the good barebottom tanks so everyone thinks it is great. But in reality there are many that are average.

should be a interesting thread and the tanks that they run,

great links for you. http://www.reefpark.net/forums/index.php?showtopic=15268 http://www.reefpark.net/forums/index.php?showtopic=14927&st=0

Been watching too much porn valley cracker

That is a good way to kill sales for petplanet.

things to look at when getting before getting these filters petplanet. The old saying " Let The Buyer Beware" is very true when it comes to water filters as there are times that we are ashamed to be associated with this industry, the lies told by some are outrageous. The most important thing as far as the buyer is concerned is the cartridge size, the standard size for a normal system is 9-3/4" inches or 248mm when referring to the cartridge length. There are manufactures that rip people off, they do this by supplying a system at a reasonable price but manufacturing it with shorter housings and cartridges knowing that when the cartridges need changing they know you have no choice but to buy a replacement off them at high prices. If you do buy one of these systems you are also hoping that they stay in business and they don't change the models. All carbon cartridges will treat for the following chemical compounds, some will treat for higher for longer. Carbon cartridges with larger amounts of carbon will treat higher for longer, cartridges with a rating for 3,000 litres will fall well short of a carbon filter rated for 20,000 litres simply due to the amount of carbon material contained within the cartridge, also watch out for cartridges with slow flow rates, a carbon cartridge with a flow rate of 2 litres per minute will not be used by the consumer at that rate as it is too slow(15 seconds to fill a glass). Most persons have their filter system set to deliver around 3.5 litres per minute, with a cartridge rated at 2 litres per minute running at 3.5 litres per minute will result in incomplete treatment simply because the cartridge doesn't contain enough carbon to have sufficient contact time for effective treatment. There is no secret ingredient in cartridges from different manufacturers the only trick to watch out for is slow flow rates, this increases contact time and makes the cartridge look more effective than it really is and there are few people that would have the patience to use it at a flow rate of 2 litres per minute. Chemicals that carbon will treat for Alachlor, Atrazine, Benzene, Bromochloroacetonitrile2, Bromodichloromethane1, Bromoform1, Tetrachloride, Chlorobenzene, Chlorine, Chloroform1, Chlorodibromomethane1, Chloropicrin, 2,4-D, Dibromoacetonitrile2, DBCP, Dichloroacetonitrile2, o-Dichlorobenzene, p-Dichlorobenzene, 1,2-Dichloroethane, Pentachlorophenol, Simazine, Styrene, 1,1,2,2-Tetrachloroethane, Tetrachloroethylene, Toluene, 2,4,5-TP (Silvex), Tribromoacetic Acid, Trichloroacetonitrile2, 1,2,4-Trichlorobenzene, 1,1,1-Trichloroethane, 1,1,2-Trichloroethane, Trichloroethylene, 1,1,1-Trichloro-2-Propanone3, 1Trihalomethanes, m-Xylene, p-Xylene, 1,1-Dichloroethylene, cis-1,2, Dichloroethylene, trans-1,2-Dichloroethylene, 1,1-Dichloro-2-Propanone3, 1,2-Dichloropropane, cis-1,3-Dichloropropylene, Dinoseb, Endrin, Ethylbenzene, EDB, 2Haloacetonitriles (HAN), 3Haloketones (HK), Heptachlor, Heptachlor Epoxide, Hexachlorobutadiene, Hexachlorocyclopentadiene, Lindane, Methoxychlor

here a good auction http://www.trademe.co.nz/Home-living/Pets-animals/Fish/Fish/auction-35764720.htm

I think bare bottom sucks big time, dirt under your rocks is not a big deal as it get used by inverts. I have always had about 1inch of substrate and the life in it is amazing with all the worms and pods, Having no nutrients is just as bad as having too much, it is all about balance. Most dirt in the substrate is inert anyway so I doubt a small layer causes any problems. If you keep wrasses, blennies and gobies then substrate is important to keep them in good health. Not to sure about as my xenia does really well when my nutrients drop. i have seen a few zeo tank that have low , po4 and the xenia is doing much better than tanks with high nutrients so i suspect that most books are incorrect stating that it will do better in a high nutrient tank, Xenia is very toxic and does kill acros if it touches them . ever smelled a dead xenia in a bag, its not pretty.

http://www.marineaquarium.nl/BerndMohr.php http://www.marineaquarium.nl/yvan.php two great t5 tanks. Likes to have his nitrate levels between 10-20ppm. brings out the great colours. and david saxby's tank (metal halides) http://www.marineaquarium.nl/Davidsaxby.php