Alan

Your mollies will probably be killed. The protection from predator thing comes in. Remember the golden rule with fish, if it will fit into it's mouth. IT WILL ! ! ! Alan 104

Why not enjoy the parent-caring process and leave them all together. The babies will grow nearly twice as fast. If the don't get eaten of course, but then ya can try again. Alan 104

Put a length of PVC piping that the pl*co can fit into as a cave When it does, a net over each end and Pl*co is removed with the least fuss. Watch the parents-to-be, they may attack you and they can nip. Goodluck. Don't feed the babies till they are up in the water column and swimming in a school with M&D watching over them. Okay?? Alan 104

Last weekend in Feb. was my visit, from there I went to another large shop, nearby, and was impressed by the customer service and was nearly twisted into buying some fish that I "needed", but due to the fact I was staying up there for three days, I didn't succumb to the temptation. Maybe next time tho. Alan 104

Ten piece Non-syphoning drain Follow using a drawing One upright Rt angle to right straight right angle down Straight T jointer branch to the right on the branch short straight right angle up short to desired depth of tank. Go back to T straight to sump. It works. Looks ungainly, but no need for drilling tank. EJ uses it on all his tanks with a timed self filling system. I use it on my bath ponds outside. Alan 104

To over come the problem that Rob so rightly points out. Use a light from the side, near the base for illumination. Alan 104

Acidic cure is the ONLY one to use. The alkaline (I think) is used in the plumbing trade for waterproofing flashings, the acicidc one caused the metal to rust. Also, the non acidic has mould inhibitives in it that are lethal to fish if used in the manufacture or repairs of a tank. Go to your local glazier and ask them what they use. You may get a tube cheaper than the hardware store too. Have a look in their waste glass bin toowhile you are there, most glaziers are partial to an ale, if you wish to remove some of their rubbish. Opps ! more tanks. Tell ya wife you have to have a reserve tank in case of problems with the main tank. You also need a spare tank, smaller, for quarantining new fish or sick fish. By the way. Check to see that your new setup has a pilystyrene under sheet. If not, GET one. Alan 104

Good thinking Bill. But the container with the BBS will have to be aerated to keep the BBS alive and in the water column. Congrates on the ponies, cute eh?? Alan 104

Welcome aboard Bigmill (BM) to this site. We have a chat room at 9.00 most evenings, see the top of the page. Open til the head hits the keyboard, last one out is to turn off the light to conserve power. I too am a breeder, concentrating mainly on killifish, although I have been known to do a few cichlids, danios and livebearers, oh, and one or two others as well. I have in excess of 100 tanks. Also a big power bill. Hope others, other than Aucklanders, can post to you. NZ ain't that big. Alan 104

From your discription, I would say your first tank had it's base break because you didn't have a sheet(10mm minimum) of polystyrene underneath it, but on the table. If your new tank is set up without it. I'd definately suggest that you empty your tank. Put down a sheet of polystyrene, it takes away pressure points that can cause breakages. Replace tank and start all over. In the meantime, put some aeration, and heat control, into your fish in the rescue tank. To repair the other tank. Strip all the glue on the inside of the tank around the base to the vertical walls, clean well, then get a piece of glass cut with about 5mm clearance on the inside measurements, Use silicone glue, acidic cure and making sure a good bead is put right around the bottom corner, also several beads up the centre of the tank base, and a bead over where the tank has cracked. Now gently lower the new base into the tank. A good sucker is now a good weapon to help aid this manoeuvre. Now bed it down as tight as possible by pressing down hard using your hands. Now go around the perimeter of the newly installed base and put another bead, this is smoothed into place using a wet finger. Make sure no other surfaces are touched with glue in the process, if you happen to tho, wait for it to dry before attempting to remove it. WARNING This can be hazardous to your health, and should be done in a well ventilated area. Alan 104 Oh ! Wecome aboard. Al

What size are the worms?? Alan 104

What are the dimensions of your proposed tank? Not the contents amount. Thanks Alan 104

Well I visited this shop last visit to Auck. I found the owner more interested in smoking his cigarette and yakking on the phone. No customer contact was made at all. Some of his goldfish were huge and good specimens of their type. But I also noticed whitespot in his tank and no information to say they were under treatment and not for sale. I will not be visiting the shop in future trips to Auckland. Alan 104

Once in the tank, any that survive, sink to the bottom where the corydoras will greet them with wide open eyes and mouths. In the breeding container, if they start climbing they are too wet, and the lot will die. Or they are too dry, and overheated they will also climb. I cover my guys with plastic shetting (breadwrap), and wash them off by dipping it into water in a bowl from there they are fed out. I feed them slices of bread, broken into quarters, squeezed of the water they soaked in. Alan 104

DELETED X AUTHOR

Forgot to say I'm married, and not looking for any "baaaaaaaa-gurls" Alan 104

Good one KK. Isn't there a way to post photoes a bit smaller? 104,000 bytes and 223,000 bytes is going a bit far isn't it? Then there are four of them, two a little smaller. Nice to have the pics, but please down size them. Alan 104

Ummmmmmm Last tyme i checked I was a guy. been that way all my life too! Alan -------- Female-------- ??? Mind you I am half ozzie, so maybe that would make me qualify as a bit of a gurl Alan 104

How deep was the water column that they spawned in?? Alan 104

Until you meet someone you are a stranger. But with a common thread such as a hobby of fishkeeping, it isn't long before you are the best of friends. Go along and join in. If you are going to the first meeting of the club, you'll then be one of the "old-hands". Alan 104

Yo! Welcome aboard Andrew Where do you hail from> Maybe we can compare notes better with that info. Ya never know, ya may need help one day and we can set you on a quick course with some local lads or lasses. Chat's open 9.00pm onwards almost every night. Alan 104

Here's a letter I just received. Hi Alan, I’m, regularly having problems with Kribs and their eyes popping out and their jaws seeming to be locked open ( meaning that their mouth is always open like it’s going to eat something). My PH is Neutral and I have done Nitrite, Nitrate and Ammonia tests and all have come back as within acceptable levels. Do you have any thoughts? Thanks, XXX Wadda think? Tank water NOT really up to standard? ie. not enuff water-changes Results pop-eye? Any help will be appreciated. Alan 104

VCH, who is Allan? I don't know of anyone of that name on the site? A moderator is what I'd describe as being a 'guide', we just keep an eye in the area where we are allocated to make sure ppl are in the right thread etc. The stars don't refer to the longevity of "belonging" to this site. Rather the longevity of "posting" to this site. You may notice a number in that area? That refers to our postin count. I think Caryl has the most time to spare on this site. If you click on a persons profile, you'll see the %'s they have posted, and also have the ability to see every posting that they have made. A lot of reading for some of them. ALAN 104

:roll: Alan 104

Doesn't really matter. Maybe need to protect the overhang from damage from bumps etc. But support, no. Not IMHO. But make sure you have a packing of polystyrene sheeting, under the tank to act as insulation and as a self leveler to take out any 'hard patches'. Alan 104