Silverdollarboy2

Time to give the Newts a bigger home so  got one of those blue planet tanks, 70 litre

 cut a piece of acrylic 100mm high and 10mm longer than the tank, curved it then siliconed it into place, I then sanded it for grip and stuck some gravel on it.

Put a layer of grave then covered in potting mix to form the land part of the enclosure and hopefully keep some plants and moss growing.

Changed loose fitting glass lid for a piece of acrylic, mounted a light on it for viewing and drilled 4mm holes for ventilation., now to finish and put dem newts in it.

Black Lutino Endler:


*Click image to play video*
As you may know, Albinos (Real Red Eye Albino = RREA) have red eyes because they can not produce melanin (black pigment) and therefore we can see the blood flowing through their eyes. Lutinos (Wine Red Eye Albino = WREA) on the other hand can produce a tiny, tiny amount of melanin that's whey their eyes are dark red.
I managed to push natures limits to it's max and bred a fish that still has red eyes but shows a lot of black on it's body.
 
Cheers,
JaSa

Rodney Fletcher generally has a few for sale. Try facebook

Just update

First thing to learn is how to get cheap glass from the glaziers and how to cut glass and make your own tanks.

Give me 6 months to a year.. 

Small arowanas are fragile and are likely to be harassed by aggressive cichlids. No one way to do things, but I agree with growing the arowana to at least 20cm before adding some young oscars and the JD. Definitely don't wait until the arowana is too large as they can be equally if not more aggressive once they establish a territory, and will then resist the addition of other large fish.
Silver arowana will eventually outgrow that tank IMO.
Need at least 8ft by 3ft to accommodate one long term.
 

oh no hahaha, the problems that come with keeping fish healthy hahahah

wow! good job! hope the fry are doing well!

I agree totally about using a sponge filter (you will need an air pump to run it with as well). It depends on the strain of guppy you have, to some extent, if they will eat their fry or not. For instance most albino guppies will eat every single fry as soon as they are born unless you take major precautions, whereas some of the snakeskin and platinum strains are really chilled out and will not really bother the fry (even the males don't touch the babies) But on an average you should expect that unless you have the tank absolutely stuffed with weed (java moss I think is the best) about half the babies will be eaten, unless you can arrange to have the female in her own tank to give birth then remove her straight away. If you have only one tank then possibly isolate the female in one of those net breeders that hang on the side of the tank, and leave the fry in there until you think they are big enough to survive in the tank with other fish. Don't worry about getting your female guppy pregnant - if there is a male around, she will be!

Featherfin Synodontis, High-fin synodontis
 

Recommended rate of flow is between 600 - 2200LPH so any pump or filter within this flow rate should work.
Product                                    Recommended Flow Rate                                       Aquarium Size  HC-100A 200 to 1000 LPH 100 Litres HC-150A 250 to 1200 LPH  150 Litres  HC-250A 600 to 2200 LPH 250 Litres  HC-300A  1000 to 2500 LPH  300 Litres  HC-500A  1200 to 3000 LPH  500 Litres  HC-1000A  1500 to 4000 LPH  1000 Litres  HC-2200B  3000 to 6000 LPH  2000 Litres 

Hi, I could help you out with a couple of smaller tanks in the 40ish litre range, also some nice cheap guppies, and some plants for free. PM me if you would like to discuss or have a look.
Pet Shops - Try Rodney's Tropicals for fish (look up on facebook) or Redwood Aquatics. Organism didn't seem to be in their shop last time I drove past, they may have moved?

New Mollusc in the house, Sorry about the messy tank but the Scallop got a fright a. 
nd disturbed the sand bed

tell me what ya think and any thing that need to be improved. Want to say thanks to livingart and the mods and admins for helping me and correcting my spelling lol

BLUE TONGUE SKINKS

Overview
Blue Tongue Skinks make great pets! They are docile, tame, and friendly and don’t cause allergies like some house hold pets. They are also easy to maintain and to setup.

Tank size
Blue tongue Skinks get fairly large when they reach full size. At 2 foot when fully grown they need a big enclosure. But since they grow quite slowly they can be kept in smaller enclosures to begin with.
Number / Body length / Enclosure length x width x height
1-3 / Juveniles - 0mm-160mm / 600 x 300 x 300 mm
1-3 / Sub Adults - 200-300mm / 800 x 500 x 400 mm
1-2 / Adults - 300mm + / 1000 x 600 x 600 mm

Setup

Substrate
Blue Tongue Skinks can have a wide range of substrate, what you choose depends whether you are going to be feeding your Skink in it’s enclosure.
Aspen - This substrate is quite good and their burrowing habits are met and is a relatively safe substrate, the only draw back is a bit of dust, use apen not pine or cedar as this can kill your Blue Tongue Skink.
Sand - Is okay but not the best if you want to feed in the enclosure since Skinks can also eat the sand, this isn't good as it can cause impaction. Don't use man made sand, I don’t agree with calcium sand as they can overload on calcium.
Bark – Is a good option as it looks natural and they can burrow. Usually they can not accidentally eat it since it is too big,
Artificial grass - I recommend this substrate as it is totally safe and is easy to clean and you can feed in the enclosure.
Coir coconut fibber - this is a good substrate as it is digestible and Blue Tongue Skinks can burrow into it, but it is quite moist.
Other substrates are clean dirt.

Plants
Plants make the vivarium more natural for the Blue Tongue Skinks, use fake plants as Blue Tongue Skinks tend to eat real plants and they could be poisonous or dangerous.

Decore
Rocks and logs look nice in your Blue Tongue Skinks vivarium but make sure they are sterile, this can be done by boiling for a few minutes, don’t use any chemicals. Make sure they are not sharp and can’t fall on your Blue Tongue Skinks.
Make sure your blue tongue has a cave, have one on the cool end and the warm end.


Lighting
- Blue Tongue Skinks are active during the day so they must have uvb/uva light!
- There are special reptile lights that mimic the sun and give out these rays, an ordinary bulb wont do!
- One of the most commonly used bulbs is the “repti glow” they have a range of U.V ray wave lengths, these range from the weakest to the strongest 2.0, 5.0, 8.0 and 10.0 the higher the number the more U.V rays.
- Since Blue Tongue Skinks live in the forest the 5.0 is best but it depends what type of Blue Tongue Skinks you are keeping.
- UV bulbs need to be replaced once a year.
- Make sure you read the manufacturers guidelines and warnings

Heating
- This heating section only applies to the Eastern Blue Tongue Skink.
- Eastern Blue Tongue Skinks need a temperature gradient of around 29-24 c and the basking temperature 35 c
- Make sure there is a cool and warm end so they can regulate their own temperature.
- For heat sources you can buy special heat lamps from pet stores they get really hot they must have a ceramic fitting since they will melt an ordinary lighting fixture.
- Heat mats are not necessary as they can get all their heat from their heat lamp and they can cause a serious fire hazard I had one that was sitting on a tile and it still burnt through the plastic, cracked the glass tank bottom, and turned the carpet underneath to ash.
- Heat rocks aren't necessary as your Blue Tongue Skinks will get all their heat from the lamp. But they do enjoy heat rocks. Make sure the heat rock has a built in thermo stats, don't produce hot spots, and are water proof. A good one is made by “exo-terra”.

Diet
- Blue Tongue Skinks are omnivorous meaning they eat a variety of foods.
- They aren't particularly fussy when it comes to food but they must have the right diet if they are going to grow and be happy.
- A blue tongues diet should consist of 50% veggies, 40% Protein (meats and insects), and 10% fruit.
- For veggies you can use puha(water cress), broccoli, tomatoes, zucchini, peas,mustard greens,grated butternut squash and dandelions (should be mixed with other veggies).
- For protein foods you can use-tinned dog food, dog chow, crickets, snails (no need to take the shell off), mice (don't leave in at night or unsupervised as they are known to bite as a defence or gnaw on lethargic reptiles the same applies for crickets and locust) ,mealworms, earthworms, tiger worms, cockroaches, lean red meat, mince, and raw or boiled egg.
- For fruits you can use, apples, strawberries, bananas, pear, figs, melon, plums, kiwifruit and raisins. - Don’t feed avocado as this is toxic to reptiles
- Calcium supplements with vitamin d3 are great for your reptile but DO NOT OVER DOSE AS IT COULD BE FATAL!
- For calcium powder sprinkle a little bit of it (just a little) on your Blue Tongue Skinks food every 3 days
-Give them a vitamin supplement once a week

ONLY GIVE SMALL AMOUNTS OF.CALCIUM AND VITAMIN SUPPLEMENTS TOO MUCH WILL DO MORE DAMAGE THAN NOT ENOUGH!

Habits
- Blue Tongue Skinks are active during the day but tend to sit in their caves a lot. You can encourage them out by removing their caves for an hour or so each day
- They each have their own personalities and their own tastes and what they like and dislike.
- Blue Tongue Skinks should not be kept with other reptiles, feeding habits and enclosure requirements make them incompatible.
- Some like to be handled but some don't also always wash your hands before and after handling as all reptiles have the posibility to carry salmonella.
- Keeping blue tongues together can be good or bad. Blue tongues in groups to me,tend to be more active alert and entertaining but there is a downside. Blue tongues skinks are solitary by nature usually only coming together to breed, thus they aren't friendly to each other two males put together can create territorial problems and they will fight. Also having mixed sized blue tongue skinks meaning the heavier,fatter and larger ones may crush small innocent blue tongues. It is really up to you but if you see any aggression i advise you separate them.

Melanotaenia praecox - Dwarf Neon Rainbowfish


Aulonocara sp. - Dragon Blood Peacock

These are some of my guys. I have 3 setups. The 600 litre,the 300, and the 240. Mainly all central American cichlids with a few catfish and swordtails thrown in the mix. All up though I have a jack dempsey pair, a Cuban, convicts, tbars, a rogue blue acara, banjos cats, spotted Rapheal catfish, a Whiptail, and a few plecos. I tend to keep pretty quiet on forums these days whether it's this one or Facebook but would be good to see a few new posts for sure!

Melanotaenia praecox - Dwarf Neon Rainbowfish

Haven't been here for a while, Geos are growing well they are slowly getting more of the iridescent blue colouring and their fins are getting nice and long. I purchased mine from HFF Mt Roskil good quality fish haven't had and issues. I feed quite a variety of dry foods mainly sinking type, also frozen cichlid food and if they are around mosquito larvae (which they go mad for). I do slightly over feed them because they seem to sift constantly and food is always gone.
Hovmoller, I think you were very lucky getting red/orange heads as I tried getting some after seeing yours, but apparently they aren't or weren't on the list.
My tank is 480ltrs and I may have to thin numbers by a couple once they are full size.      

Update from today.

With all due respect to Rodney and his efforts in Christchurch, I this this Killifish should not be called Akure any more.
I bought some recently and got 2 different males, this in it's self is fine as there is a natural variation in this species, however one of the males looked like a P82, this is Not what any Akure is supposed to look like any any of it's natural forms.
He admitted to adding P82 bloodlines into the strain after the ChCh earth quake.
This is understandable if it was a choice of loosing them or using the P82's, but it does mean the name "Akure" is no longer accurate.
What's more Akure is a Fundulopanchax clauseni gardneri Akure, where as P82's are Fundulopanchax gardneri P82
So they really should be called a generic name like Fundulopanchax sp., just in case a pure form of Akure comes in again.
They are really nice

Hi there,
summer is coming to an end and my outside breeding setup is getting shut down shortly with lots of nice guppies looking for a new home.
When?
Saturday, 11.03.17 between 11am and 1pm.
Where?
Kihikihi. Send me a PM if you would like to come and I will give you the address.
What is for sale?
Green Grass, Green Moscows, Blue Grass, Blue Moscows. Aquamarine, Aquamarine Blonde, Koi Swordtails, Swallow Tails, Black Lace, unsorted Moscow and Magenta Guppies.
How much?
All outside guppies:
Male guppies & Koi Swordtails = $5
Female guppies = Gold coin donation
No fixed prices for the inside guppies but if you find anything interesting, just ask and we'll see.
Anything else?
- Only while stock lasts
- First in - first served.
- No commercial quantities
- Didn't bring a container or bag? No guppies!
- Don't try to contact me via TradeMe. TradeMe sales are different to this sale.
Any questions or if you need more information just ask and I will get back to you here.
 
Cheers,
JaSa