blueether
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Everything posted by blueether
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don't know what they are selling bit the pic is from wiki (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/File:Red_Texas.jpg)
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where do you waste time on the internet
blueether replied to disgustipated's topic in The Off Topic Fishroom
http://www.kongregate.com/games/Digital ... lete=hashi on 32x32, a good way to spend an hour -
are there any Fissidens spp. commercially available in NZ? I would think that it would make a fantastic carpet.
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I also has a cf1200 and have no issues with it at all (except it's not quite big enough for my 430L)
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+1 on all of that, but... I have found them all the way up to about 60m asl and about 160 km inland. Seen good populations in streams with no tidal section or estuary, and in streams with near no in-stream plant life. I have also seen above a semi-hanging culvert with a drop of around 1m. I have had females last several months but not had larvae hatch - berried females tend to die quickly or abort the eggs
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I hate how my tank looks - I need some inspiration please!
blueether replied to tinytawnykitten's topic in Freshwater
I would get a cf1200 as well as the cf1000 that is in there - should do the job just fine. I think I would replace at least one of the blue bulbs with a 6500k daylight bulb, will make the tank brighter. I like dark substrates, I used to have black in my 430L and have dark natural river sand in the 200L and the 60L at the moment and small pebbles (darkish river stuff) in the 430L. But in saying that a lighter substrate will make the tank look brighter. -
even so I would expect him to repair it, for free, as it is 'new'
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If it is a new tank direct from the maker I would get them to repair it
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The gains should come from a heatpump as they are much more efficient at heating than a heating element... if the room if well insulated and draft free...
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Iridovirus is on the list of diseases that are meant to be screened for on imports of species that are susceptible
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If you go to LED lights the lower power they use will be off set by the extra heating the room will need I would go for a good heatpump as well as what everyone else has said.
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remember that the cyano will be decomposing and it will release all the nutrients that it has absorbed back into the water. When you are done with the black-out you will need to do a water-change or two.
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well not in NZ at least - it would appear that they are over seas
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+1 I would also squeeze out any sponges in the old filter into the cf1200 if they wont fit. might make the water a bit dirty for a day but will clear up in no time.
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Sam, then you have never seen my tank. I have a 5,000 l/h and a 5,000-15,000l/h wavemaker, a 3,500 l/h pump with a corse filter and the canister filter that is doing over 1,000 l/h all in 430 l and I still have cyano - and lots of it. A blackout does work well in my experience, and I think that Cyano is caused (or not helped) by too mush phosphate.
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I take it that you hubbie is a Yorkshire man with the Tetley's? We lived on the border of Nth Yorks / Co. Durham for about 5 or 6 years
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I would guess the one in the white shirt...
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But as this is a flat forum replying to several posts in one reply isn't an issue, and may even keep it tidier. Anyway back to the question at hand, water changes, to reduce the algae and its food, and a blackout to help kill the algae should help no end. Did you test for ammonia/nitrite/nitrate?
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Green cloudy, or white/milky cloudy?
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wasn't me, but i hope tat it works out between you...
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She did fill in somewhat, but unfortunately they were all eaten by the next day. I think that sone of the eggs didn't stick well to the glass, there were a few places that were devoid of eggs in the middle of the egg mass
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Have a read of these two articles: http://www.skepticalaquarist.com/nitrogen-cycle http://www.theaquariumwiki.com/Bacteria_bottles,_do_they_work%3F
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Just a little clarification is needed here: Nitrate is the end product of fish waste in the aquarium, it doesn't matter how 'big' the filter is there will still be the same amount of end product in the (partial) N2 cycle in an aquarium. There are three ways to lower this end product: 1/ Remove it with a partial water change (what most people do) 2/ Bind it into plant growth 3/ Complete the N2 cycle with anaerobic bacteria (tricky to do in a standard freshwater aquarium)
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I'll admit that nothing was removed, I had an F5 error...
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/me is too drunk to use the interwebs...
