Artem

Leopard, False Julli(real Julli not available) and Trilieanatus are the same thing. Schwartzi are quite a bit more expensive unless you find a local breeder. So really you've expanded it to include one more :smln: Peppered you should be able to find cheaper if someone has bred them, they breed by the hundreds and can be irritating to get rid of :roll: Good luck!

Thankfully no. Ive been getting rid of the fry for the past 6 months :facepalm:

Tried both of those already, but maybe I moved too quickly and didn't wait long enough. Will try again tonight. I should probably mention that its a male and he was breeding, which is why I think he doesn't want to come out of his cave.

Okay, so Ive been slowly selling off all the stock in my plec tank and now there is only a single occupant left... the bristlenose. He has been sitting in the crevice of some driftwood for months and I haven't seen him out once. Sooo, how can I get him to come out without doing a stakeout for a few hours in the night :-?

Try scooping them up with a turkey baster or pipette. I use a pipette to scoop up up to 2wk old cory fry when I need to examine them :thup:

White poly is usually low-density. Especially if it comes off in little round balls. Higher density poly tends to be foam-like in appearance and green or blue. At least that has been my experience with it.

Dirty Gravel means too much fish poo. I would say that you should get rid of the Blue Gourami, at 10cm its too large for any tank that is only 60L. How many Guppies do you have in there? Are there any other fish in the tank? What type of filter are you using on there?

:nfs: !drool: Were they expensive?

I've bought three 2nd hand 150-200L 3ft tanks for $50, $50 and $30 each, although one had lots of scratches from a turtle and the other two needed to be cleaned and re-siliconed. In saying this, these tanks were a steal. 8) The trouble with second hand tanks is that there is lots of uncertainty as to the age of the glass, the condition of the glass, the condition of the silicone, the bracing, the glass thickness etc. If you give as much information as possible you should be able to sell it for a better price :thup:

I would say that LED downlights are probably not the best option out there. If you are looking for a cheap LED alternative then you won't find one. The cheapest kits Ive seen are these: http://www.aquastyleonline.com/ The only concern is that they use Bridgelux LEDs instead of Cree and their drivers are a bit dodge, but you can always order in some Cree separately and they offer meanwell drivers for an extra cost.

That light looks fine, since there are two bulbs it would be 22W/7.5G. The WPG rule doesn't work that well anyway.

!drool: Do you mean one of the sides will be glass? Because fibreglass and glass don't silicone well together...

Oh right! Hopefully someone does breed them, they are a nice alternative to Otos

Hey Liam, Did you get the LDA025 just from a pet shop or a breeder? Thanks! Artem

"Two colour forms appear for sale. The first, Peruvian, variety has large ''dalmatian'' style spots all over its body with smaller spots around the head. The other, Colombian, variety (which reportedly grows larger) has many more spots that are smaller, less clearly defined and almost pin-prick size on the fish's head. This differentiation should only be used when comparing fish of a similar size as both patterns change with age". Source: http://www.planetcatfish.com/catelog/_species.php?species_id=276 The only fully grown pictus Ive seen was probably around 15cm

I endorse everything said above, BUT I recommend you go with a slightly more exotic cory like Panda, Fake Julii or Sterbai. They will only be slightly harder to breed, and by that I mean you won't be able to leave them alone and expect eggs. But if the conditions are right they are just as easy as Bronze Corys to spawn. The reason I endorse these corydoras species is simply because they are just that much easier to move on later. And they look way better IMO.

+1 if you know what caused the outbreak in the first place then this is great quick-fix solution. Simply don't make the same mistake again. I had a similar experience after leaving zuchinni in for too long and I simply used accu clear and it never happened again afterwards. If it does happen again then you need to figure out how what is going on, fix it then dose the accu clear. It is also great because the fish don't mind it at all - I had native shrimp and Otocinclus in the tank when I dosed and had zero casualties!

Thats a bit of an overkill if you are only keeping some crypts and anubias. I think you would end up switching 3-4 of them off to keep algae from blooming anyway

If its just sunrise/sunset normal T5s would work. Or an LED strip

I crush up flake food and they go for that. I think if you deprive them of the Hikari for a while they will go for the flake. If not, Microworms work well and my Embers LOVE them. Other than that you can buy a kilo of the micro pellets from ebay for USD$86 inc shipping. Also try crushing the Hikari sinking wafers or similar. JBL NovoTab should also be accepted once they realise what it is :thup:

What else will go in the tank? Your best bet might be to buy small ones and grow them out. Other than that, join a fish club and get to know people who keep clowns. :thup:

30 minutes is a small price to pay for education

+1 please!

I hatched all of my eggs without any anti-fungal medication, sure some fungused over but I still had more fry than space quite soon! And if its the bronze and albino ones you will definitely run out of space soon :slfg:

If someone knows his whereabouts, Id be keen on some as well :thup: