Flosty

What about some clear flexible tubing,you can get it from bunnings and hose clamp it to your pump/pipe that is what I use

I think this is very poor on behalf of the petshop, to sell fish from an infected tank!

These wilds are stunning !drool: Are these the ones you are keeping for yourself?

Genetics are obviously very important The guppies posted by Jasa are very healthy looking guppies You can bet your bottom dollar these have been line bred many generations and they are still very healthy looking fish Is it a virus or just a bacteria?antibiotics are expensive(prescription needed) in this country but bought off the shelf in others.

Interesting looking guppy. What strains are coming in nowadays Guppies seem to be so fragile

yeah bin inn is where i get it

Ron are you still keeping/breeding discus at home Any pics to share?

Beautiful Fish Reef,I think rarely seen in this country

I have about 10 tanks dedicated to discus Some of mine

Reef...some of these discus are very nice,who was importing these?

Yes I remember this store He had a ten foot tank in the middle with some of the biggest discus I have seen He also bred discus out the back so you could see the parents of the discus you were buying,so you knew what you were getting This has got to be 10+ years ago that I saw this

I would do a large water change to knock those nitrates down,something like 80% I don't keep rams but my discus get these changes all the time and love it and yeah your co2 will definately help to bring down the ph If you have soft water to start with it bring it down even more

Cam, I wouldn't be surprised if the decomposing bodies of your missing rams have caused the spike in parameters Other than that if the tank has been set up for awhile you should have no ammonia or nitrites. The spike could be dead fish or maybe you are over feeding? I am guessing you know all about the nitrogen cycle,ammonia to nitrite,nitrite broken down to nitrates nitrates are removed by water changes or if your tank is planted thats a good way of getting rid of nitrates as the plants feed on this As for lowering the ph, if you have a low tds then you can successfully lower it,but if its high it tends to just bounce straight back So if soft water is what you are after , best bet is something like rain water or reverse osmosis water or if the tank is planted you could run some diy CO2 which will lower it as the CO2 lowers ph. Whatever you do consistency is the key,you don't want to be bouncing the ph all over the show. Thats why with "most" tank bred fish it is generally recommended to use aged tap water as that is all that is needing unless breeding for example.

My fish room is a little bit different, but you are more than welcome to come and see what I have down pm me if you are interested

At the moment I just keep it quite simple ox heart Salmon Spinach(boiled) banana multi vitamins flake food In the past I have used all sorts including sheep hearts chicken hearts Liver broccoli peas carrots mussels prawns shrimp paprika calcium carbonate

You will probably find that most adults will carry them to some degree But can generally cope with them when healthy Fry cannot cope with them and will normally go dark and swim around the surface as if gasping for oxygen Potassium Permanganate is what I use If i get some fry with symptoms or a deceased fry I will do a scraping from behind the gill cover( never the gills unless deceased) And scope it, they are easy to see

Prazi is not a harsh drug and generally fine to use on fry but why would you use it on the parents while they are carrying fry? Why take the risk You are best to clean the parents prior to spawning

Nice one! Awesome stand Thats a great tank to be modelling off of, and very achievable too best of luck with it

Way to go, tank looks great and see the hobby can be done on a budget :thup:

Believe it or not I have actually had a pair raise 1 fry before So 10 is better, fingers crossed they keep them on there backs You want to introduced newly hatched brineshrimp on day 4 or 5 but they generally don't start attacking it till day 7 or 8 You can remove them from the parents after 2 weeks if you are still concerned for them otherwise 3 weeks is a lot better

I have bred pigeon checkerboards before which is basicly what a red map is,they seemed to attach just fine but you still may benefit from lowering the water level until they attach

If they are a young pair they can still learn,what you are experiencing is quite normal Give them some time Are they in a bare bottom breeding tank on there own? If so you can add meth blue once they have spawned this will increase the wriggler numbers which will maximise your chance of lots of free swimmers What colour are your discus?, fry attach to darker discus easier If they are white or red they may not attach too easily so you will need to lower the water to just above the fins of the adults,You will get far more attach with a smaller confined area The fry can find the parents easier

Congrats on your success so far.... The problem tends to arise once the eggs go to wrigglers Thats when the parents generally eat the previous spawn

Not much you can do, they will probably eat them if they are laying again Are they quite young parents?,maybe they haven't quite got the gist of it yet And if its a small batch they may not bother with them

You don't need to change your ph, I would leave it at tap ph, that will be even more stable And save you some $