Flosty

Yes I hatch them every day!

It won't be the brineshrimp then I find once they are on the ox heart they can go a bit stupid Its hard to know with out seeing the fish The fry go down hill very fast especially if they have gill flukes They probably won't make it and there is not alot you can do at such a young age As treating the fry at too younger age can be detrimental to there growth long term

Sometimes the fry eat to much and have trouble swimming As the food presses on the swim bladder They don't seem to get full like us humans, they just eat themselves to a point where it sometimes kills them This is possibly what is happening,what are you feeding? It also could just be something bacterial the fry have picked up from the parents or from the water

These ones generally don't make it It could be bacterial but I tend to think it is probably gill flukes Some get effected more than others,they swim around the top of the tank and are very dark in colour

Yes definately getting annoyed with the fry feeding off her sides As they get bigger they tend to be more aggressive at feeding time You should of been supplementing with brine shrimp at about day 7 or 8 Sounds like you have done the right thing by removing her You want to make sure they get at least 3 real good feedings a day,5 or 6 is even better but more water changes I would be introducing some ox heart now as well,they will start nibbling at that very shortly best of luck

Very!

Whenever the water surface is broken it will let gases in and out so an air stone driven by an air pump will always introduce more oxygen into the water Which definately is a benefit as you have stated the fish are swimming near the water surface maybe for oxygen But yes the spray bar above the water level will do the same thing

Hi Mike, where abouts do you live? Does your water contain chlorine and do you need to use a conditioner where you live? I know it is a beginner question but whether your tank is cycled or not 10 neons should not die overnight in a 165 litre tank Unless there was something toxic in your water or in your equipment or tank,maybe even your substrate depending on what you have used

Day 3 and now they are attaching to the sponge filter? So they have been attached to the parents for 3 days and now on the filter? They have probably discovered the food source on the filter If they never attached to the parents from day 1,I would be worried The fry are attracted to dark colours and sometimes have trouble finding the parents if they don't darken Especially red or albino fish You can either pull the filter but you have to stay on top of water quality or cover the filter with a white stocking then the fry should find the parents

you can introduce brine shrimp at day 4 or 5 but generally they don't take it eagerly till day 7 or 8 When it comes to discus there is no substitute for water changes and the more the better But at one day free swim its perfectly fine to do small frequent water changes By the time they are eating brine shimp you need to be doing at least 50% daily You will know when to remove the parents if you watch them closely they will be your best guide If they looked stressed or agro towards each other then remove I try and leave them as long as possible, 2 or even 3 weeks if you can

Its very difficult to totally rid your fish of gill flukes In fact your fish will live quite happily with them if you maintain good tank husbandry They will only effect your fish if the conditions get out of hand What you have done so far would have killed the adults but the eggs will remain You can minimise them by doing 3 treatments 7 days apart which will kill the flukes that hatch from the eggs But its very hard to eliminate them and you will do more harm to your fish before you get on top of them Especially if you plan on the road you are going down with chemical warfare PP is the cheapest and best med(I find) for killing flukes at 2 mg/l for 4 hrs I am surprised your fish are still alive at the 12 mg/l dose you gave Some fish will only tolerate 1 mg/l,so you will need to do some research into ram tolerance The best bet as Jennifer has said would be to do a scrape which is very simple to do Scrape from the back of the gill cover, never the gills and view under a microscope, flukes are easy to spot Only then should you medicate if you find flukes Best of luck

Nice! looks like a healthy spawn A low bacteria count is always best when raising discus fry so water changes are a plus And best to keep the tank bottom clean as the wrigglers can get tangled up in that stuff if they fall from the spawn site Best of luck!

Some pairs will fight over who takes care of the eggs/fry Yours could quite well be like this Best of luck with the spawn

Just use aged tap water You will get far better growth from your discus if you are not bouncing the ph around The first thing that will stunt growth is stressed fish RO is fine for lowering your tds for beeding purposes but otherwise growing your discus out in tap water is perfectly fine and cheaper!

:slfg: :rotf: :slfg:

Depends how far gone it is Once they get the razor thin forehead there is very little you can do

90% water changes a day will get rid of it but bank on it taking 4 or 5 days before its gone It dilutes it till its gone,just 1 90% won't do it,it just comes back You have to maintain it over a number of days until it is gone best of luck

Nice clean pigeons :thup: Best of luck with the Fry You should get some nice checkerboard out of those pairs I have a few pairs I am working with including a checkerboard pair and various others that I throw together

I have always known these ones as millions snails,I had these once introduced from some plants and they were very hard to eradicate Later I unknowingly introduced the malaysian trumpet snails on some plants also,which kept the millions in check as they eat all the millions snail eggs they lay on the glass and over time they pretty much destroy the millions snail population. The downside is that the trumpet snails multiply by the hundreds and they don't crush easily like the other type :an!gry

!drool: yes please, love to see some pics :nfs: :thup:

How long has your tank been running? Sounds a little to me like you need to just up your water changes for a while Get your water right first Droncit is perfectly fine to use in your tank But best to use in a bare bottom hospital tank One tablet treats 20 litres, crush in a zip lock bag with a rolling pin and add warm water to mix Treats tapeworm and gill flukes Not really sure if it is relevant to your case Possibly clamped fins can be flukes but best to up water changes than subject all the fish to meds all the best

Not all discus get massive and they will still breed at that size,age is the important factor not size and a female can start laying at 6-7 months of age

Once they have laid eggs approx 60 hrs later they should hatch in to wrigglers,then you know you have a male and a female for sure If they have a good bond they will make better parents.I wouldn't move them unless you know for sure you have a pair,2 females will court each other also and lay eggs so you need to get wrigglers to know you have a fertile male aswell. 100 - 120 litre tank is best for breeding discus Very nice! and best of luck

I would let them have a few cracks at it to increase the pair bond before moving them Also you will want to make sure they are male and female so if you get wrigglers that will be good congrats anyway what strains are they?

Heres one I got, this guppy has a beautiful big body but lacking abit in the fin department Looks very similar to the one mentioned above