phoenix44

So the pump is only used for the last 45cm or so? Apart from the fact that this works in concept because of the whole gravity and equilibrium and all... but isn't accurate as far as our cannisters are concerned because the pump is constantly on and does physically push water up on its own irrespective of where the inlet is.

so what happens if your intake is at the bottom of the tank (say 45 cm or so) and the outlet is at the top?

no the urea / ammonia would kill them

Given no other options, and given that one fish will die - I'd be more inclined to save the one I paid money for, but after about 2 seconds I'd save the one that was more likely to survive.

Well it doesn't provide even lighting like a tube will, so I would just stick to the T8 / T5s. Maybe good for night viewing though, as it would emulate the spotlight effect. Having said that get one from ebay (I think you can get them from there) and trial it on a small tank (60L) with a few plants to see for your self how it is. For your tank I think you should consider 2x 150W MH @6500K and suspend them above the tank. That's not a lot of power consumption given the size of your tank.

I most definitely is. I had the displeasure of dealing with an 04 series once. It got thrown in the skip bin by the time I was done with it. 05 series are perfect. They make good fountains too eh? :lol:

For an LED you're aiming at getting 6500K or 10000K and no higher for freshwater. They do not make powerglo (18000K) LEDs I've rambled about the watts issue before and LED lights are the perfect example of why. I'd be terrified to think about the output of a 100W LED if that's even possible. I know if you have a pile of money you can buy light hoods that have 100 - 300 1W LEDs and they are frighteningly bright.

If you mean 3.54m and the rest in mm - that is a large tank. Only thing I'd keep an out for is the RT gourami.

Wow. That is one ancient filter! I can only imagine that flashing would indicate heating, and off / stable light means target temp is reached. They are a very old filter, and one of the original thermofilters, so I doubt its an error code of some sort.

I think you should just keep buying supermarket prawn :lol:

Yeah, join a club if you really want to help the FNZAS and get access to the magazine etc. Community spirit is pretty good around here, so that's good. And even with the odd spaz at each other we still do ok haha. If you get a plant for free, I usually just give away its runners / stems etc. If I have had to put a lot of effort into growing it I would be more inclined to sell the pups to help me recover some of the cost of 2L bottles of flourish and other ferts. Never sell the parent plant though. That's a sad thing to do if you have been given it for free. Often if we send plants to each other, or its even a one way transaction to give someone plants, we don't even bother accepting money for post. :lol: Just the way it is :lol: and it works brilliantly because then someone else, totally unrelated will send you something in the mail totally out of the blue. Fish make life a little more complicated though, because once they breed you are left with a whole bunch of babies, and sometimes selling them is the way to go. I'd expect most people would offer the first owner of the fish a few babies or something like that free of charge as a thanks for the parent fish. It takes time, money and effort to raise baby fish to a certain stage, and so I feel it's not unreasonable the breeder would want to recoup the costs of running the additional tank, heater, filter, extra food etc etc.. I feel most people, not all (cynical I know, but that's me) will tend to take more care of something if there is a monetary value attached to it. It's not always the case, but is something I have noticed; and faced with the predicament of saving a fish that I have paid $200 for or saving one that I have paid nothing for, would put me in a dilemma - be it a momentary one. Some of the younger members on here don't have jobs etc and want to have a way to fuel this hobby, and so might need to sell the odd fish, plant etc to raise funds - which is fine as long as you remember that someone could have charged you for what you have, but choose not to simply because of your age and passion for the hobby. I don't think arbitrage and the sense of community spirit can walk hand in hand. My 2c :lol:

DId you complain to TM like I said? He is Legally bound to sell it to you. You're not the first person to be really really hacked off with that seller too.

They go dormant after a while, so be quick lol

Spread the plague :lol:

They look kink-able! Not to mention the cheap quality of plastic reminds me of the interior of a 300C.

It's what the manual says Ira. I know that eheim measure the pumps output at the maximum height level that you are supposed to run the filter at, which is 1.8m eheims and fluvals are gravity fed pumps. Is that the case with the aquaones?

:lol: For sure. Can't beat quality. :lol: At the end of the day people who want to save money will buy an aquaone and people who don't will buy a fluval / eheim. I'd be half tempted to buy an aquaone but those hoses look horrendous.

That is the pump output with full media, sponges, and it being setup exactly as the manual specifies, and is measured at a maximum height of 180cm. Still; the eheim comes with $150 or so of media and the aquaone comes with $20 media. I'm just saying. Don't shoot me.

Aquaone - The eheim 2213 is rated at 440LPH The Delivery head is 1.5m or 4'11" Filter Volume is 3L Consumes 8W of power Maximum installation height is 5'10'' or 180cm. Also, by the time you spend the $150 or so on eheim media that comes with the eheim, but doesn't come with the aquaone, they price is about par.

Do a full water parameter test so we can help you better. Animates / HFF should be able to do water tests if they are close to you.

so far its been all show and no action / results! Maybe they only like breeding the once. And they're not on the list any more so I haven't tried getting another female to see what happens.

yep. (eheim makes jager and a few other things and uses a different name for each product it offers; filters = eheim, tanks = mp, old tanks = eheim) The crinkly line is the minimum water level line. After the German writing underneath that, it says Fully submersible. If the heater is over 5 years old, I'm not sure about them, but ever since 2005-06 they have been fully submersible.

That was Eheim's response. Smidey emailed them once I think, and I spoke directly to the Eheim agent. We both basically got the same response. Not at all. The eheims/jagers, fluvals, renas etc are totally submersible. The condensation only occurs once the coil heats up and the differences between the internal and external environment are realised. The non ceramic containing heaters won't have any condensation, or any that is noticeable.

Yes, its normal. It is caused because of the relative humidity / temp difference between where the heater was made and sealed and NZ / our tanks. A little condensation is considered normal by Eheim.

type in the name of the glo tube like powerglo and then K into google and you'll get your answer. powerglos are 18000K but are formulated with extra blue and red peaks on the spectrum plant pros are 18000K but vary from brand to brand life glo is 6700K then there is the marine tube that is blue.