spoon

yeah i forgot about the power aqua one nautilus 2700 (no uv) 35w ,22l filter volume fx5 50w 20l filter volume too be fair about filter volume both are what the maker's state and likely to measured in different ways

yeah they need to be replaced at least early as there output drops a lot . a lot of people dont consider them necessary but hey if a cheaper filter has one thats not a bad thing :dunno:

most of the pond filters need a another pump to power them so take hat into account. although it would work it could be a false economy and having a large pump in your tank may not be ideal. id look at the price of an aqua one nautilus 2700uvc its almost as big as an fx5 has uv and can be bought brand new for less than $400

i reckon your gonna need about 6 t5s above where you are gonna have plants its a deep tank and if you have tannin stained water as would be the norm for that biotope it will cut a lot light out. id reccommend at least two 150w MH lamps you can probably pick up cheap second hand ones here for less than the fishstreet ones ( there ballasts arent very reliable )

ive got a fluval 104 on a 5.7l ( its bigger than the tank)

ive purchased stuff from them a bit sometimes the currency conversion isnt up to date and it can work out considerably cheaper to pay in us dollar on there instead of nzd and let paypal do the conversion. also as markLB said shipping is fast although that depends on customs here to a certain degree ive had stuff turn up in 5days

good luck to you :digH: you could try pointing a power head at its base it may move , but it may also move somewhere worse when i got my one we tried everything then got a hammer and chisel out and split the rock it was on to get it off in one peice by the way i dont recommend trying that

another idea for ya i remember going to the otorohanga kiwi house a few years back. they had native tanks outdoors but the theme was stream bank imagine a glass tank with a glass divider across the whole back ............ from memory this one was 2/3 the height of the tank , i couldnt tell how far forward it was set from the back of the tank but it wouldnt have been more than 20cm it was then filled with soil and gravel and planted so you had a nice earthy looking "side"of the stream with grasses etc hanging over the edge into the water . looked quite effective perhaps someone has photos of it i couldnt find any here at home

you could get that kind of flow without a sump get some grunty pumps and run the inlet piped under the gravel to the other end of the tank like this http://www.loaches.com/articles/river-tank-manifold-design

put it in a small snaplock bag and squeeze the air out coat with epoxy if you think its worth the effort/mess/cost

some blood clinics have a sign outside saying what blood types they need im a+ the most common type .ignore the signs as blood can be sold to other countries and the money help to buy more equipment

since the 6000lph wave pump will make a wide and gentle flow nothing like the fx5 output id suggest going to a 12000lph wave pump to have a better effect

im not sure but even if its a hybrid it still looks like it will turn out an awesome fish

yeah pretty cool though check out some vids on youtube to see what they can do

they are here in nz ive seen them in peoples tanks but never seen one for sale but reef wholesales tham i think he may be able to let you know of a store in your area with them or able to get them otherwise ebay

vortech mp10 or 20,40 even 60 expensive though

http://bankstrack.co.nz/ i read about this track in a magazine its privately owned and costs a bit but has hot showers and the likes at the huts

the common names dont mean anything really they change from person to person place to place id call that a hammer coral too but im well aware others call it a frogspawn neither of us are wrong, i have a green candy cane its also known as a pineapple coral as i found out in this thread

nitrate is utilised by anaerobic bateria which turn it into nitrogen gas which escape the water as oxygen is dissolved the snails etc living in there help the nitrogen to escape

http://www.ebay.com/itm/All-purpose-Temperature-Controller-STC-1000-sensor-/220812377568?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item3369717de0#ht_3985wt_1110 these work good they have a adjustable compressor delay as its not good to switch them on every 30 seconds or so you should also swap the humidstat out of the dehumifier for a thermostat or just bypass it so low humidity dosent switch it off

its some what debatable about the silicates, but enough of a reason not to use it. i would tend to avoid it also as beach sand is sometimes quite fine and will be moved around a lot in a high flow environment .

if think you are better off using coral rock for biological media theres just nothing better in time it will cover with various algaes anyway and you wont be able to tell its not from a nz coastline, i would be wary of collecting rocks from the beach to use unless you really know whats in them as they may leach something nasty

they shed their skin from time to time, they end up looking quite dirty and the white on their belly isnt clean then all of a sudden they are clean and bright again . perhaps you have seen them doing it they end up eating most of it

geez only been in an office how long and your already making plans like this :dunno: :rotf:

1 brain coral with red mushrooms underneath and zoanthids to the left 3 looks like hairy mushrooms in the background 4 green candycane on right , zoanthids to left 5 blue mushrooms , zoanthids and other mushrooms fish is yellow tailed blue damsel(Chrysiptera parasema) far bottom hammer coral? -Euphyllia species 6 torch coral above plating montipora fish is blue or green chromis,Chromis viridis 8 finger leather and zoanthids asterina star fish visible on far right middle 9dont know what anemone that is but the fish are blue tang (Paracanthurus hepatus), yellow tang (Zebrasoma flavescens) maroon clown (Premnas biaculeatus) and green manderin i think (Synchiropus splendidus)