spoon

mine ran for about 18 months in this manner the filter is still going about 4 years later as my mate still uses it to my knowledge its only be opened and cleaned 5 times also

shouldn't be a problem the o rings will handle more than any common aquarium pump can throw at them

I used to run an aquis 2400 with a pool pump paper filter inline before the canister filter. To boost flow I used a 1300lph pond pump in the tank it worked well . I had both the pump and filter pump going at the same time. I would recommend running the pump before the filter as I think it would work better also take into account many pumps run hotter and way noisier when not submersed while an ehiem would be fine it tends to shorten the lifespan of cheap pumps

Just use a 12v mr16 style led come in all sorts of colours and wattages safe easy to to wire up

Any black cheap spray paint will do just a couple of light coats. Will come up a nice glossy black on the other side

Tallest I found locally was 600 at organism being plain black then plain blue it joins together with tape on the back well you can hardly see it if you use that special glue for them or cooking oil like I used

I agree with ira on this

i would be inclined to stay away from 240v switches its easier and cheaper not to mention safer to rig one up with a relay . also float switches being mechanical can fail for all sorts of reasons classic ones being snails in marine or freshwater

I would allow plenty of room around the rock for cleaning glass as well even the back unless you don't mind it being covered in algae( could eventually look good covered in coralline but that's a personal choice ) also what purpose is the sand in the sump for? It's not deep enough for a Dsb

Epoxy can work however where there is corrosion there is generally more. You may find the patch increases pressure in another area enough to blow that through as well. Finding a welder who wants to mess around with exhausts is another problem for two reasons one the metal is normally quite thin depending on where you have to repair which makes it easy to blow a bigger hole in it with a welder , and end up spending a lot of time making a really ugly weld. Other being welders and small engineering firms are unlikely to have a hoist for easy access to the exhaust system. Most will tell you to take it to an exhaust specialist as the cost will be similar. If the exhaust is old and in poor shape it will most likely be cheaper to replace the section of exhaust back to the flange with a new off the shelf one than weld a few holes only to have another weak section leak next warrant.

aqua -knead it http://www.supercheapauto.co.nz/online- ... 5051#Cross

Depends on your setup get an external hob if you have no sump the new bm range seem to get good reviews if you have a sump get the biggest best one you can fit /afford as it should do ya if you upgrade tanks in the future

Beware of anything with a European plug from there as it won't earth with the supplied adaptor, you'll either need to buy a better adaptor or change the plug mostly its all good though

Via aqua pumps are normally very similar to aqua one . I've found the sun sun pumps to be good, resun brand not so flash although I've found that about pond master as well but to sum that up I found the resun king 2 was so similar to the pond master mk2 1300 I could swap the impellers out and o rings came in handy with my skimmer pump broke! I have an old ehiem that was in my parents pond when I was growing up its at least 20 years old and a little worse for wear but still runs fine. Also have an atman pump I can't fault and a new 10,000lph boyu pump which is only 85w(where as the pondmaster 8000lph is 190w and 3 times the price

Redwood aquatics in hussey road across from willow bank have pond stuff , have nice lilies , irises and other pond plants too

You would need to run it on a temperature controller or suitable submersible thermostat both of with would cost more than a good quality aquarium heater , not worth it IME. The supplied thermostat isn't designed to work through glass and is probably not accurate enough either . You run the risk of cooking your tank not to mention using more power

some types use 2 or more pumps. a recirculating skimmer uses a sump to feed sump water through the skimmer and a needlewheel pump to draw in air buubles , mix them with water and chop them up into tiny bubbles. some brands of larger skimmers use 2 or more pumps simply because of their size

Chemically it won't hurt as its mainly calcium carbonate and calcium magnesium carbonate, it will help buffer the water too. However I would be concerned about the size of the chips and your livestock. Marble chips tend to have sharp edges and would be unsuitable for certain types of fish that move or sift the substrate, also your substrate will become the home of many creatures the one that comes to mind most is spionid worms these need a fine substrate to build their tubes

Deformed dragonfly larvae?

Probably best to forget about traditional freshwater filter media here while most of it is excellent in providing a surface area for aerobic bacteria . In a saltwater tank you want to encourage anaerobic bacteria more than anything , the existing surface areas of your rock ,glass sand etc will provide for aerobic bacteria . The coral rock is your filter media and it need not be in the sump, to my knowledge there is nothing better than natural live rock for this use. It's extremely porous and in its core provides an oxygen free environment for the anaerobic bacteria that converts nitrate into nitrogen gas. Most people only put it into their sump when they have a refuguim as a place for pods to live and breed. On smaller tanks I've seen rear chamber sumps and the like filled with coral rubble as the tank could only hold limited live rock

i did it about 5 years ago still on the bulb as far as i know used the cheapest black spraypaint i could find it worked well you may find you need to do a few light coats

plenty of craft beers up there try mussel inn in takaka , founders organic brewery at founders park in nelson redwood cellars appleby. a few places i liked to visit when i lived there were chandrakirti tibetian buddist mediation centre - interesting place nice garden on a hill. source of the riwaka river cold clean water coming out of a cave lots of native bush on the way nice picnic area. in golden bay the cobb dam is pretty cool as well as pupu springs and wainui falls

should probably ditch the carbon and use GFO or /and purigen

i have the BM nac 6 its running well have swapped the pump for pinwheel one, ive noticed the newer curve ones use pinwheel ones too better than the meshwheel impellors they only last 6 months

i had one tank slide off the stand so i added corner braces made from aluminium to the corners of the stand so the tank cant slide off it will probably bend the braces but save the tank. another tank i had tipped right over as it couldnt slide off the stand so i used 20 8mm screws and attached the stand to a 20mm thick vinyl covered bit of mdf with a larger footprint than the stand to make it more stable . ive heard if you are fixing the stand to the house its better to fix the stand to the floor than the wall as the wall and floor may move differently and could cause the stand to fail. an lfs down here recommends using large sheets of double sided tape to attach the tank to the stand where the stand dosent have a lip. or you could do as my friend has done ..... get rid of the stand all together his 5ft tank is resting on a 2inch high wooden frame and is only filled 2/3 of the way