A pinch of flake, some ground up shrimp and whitebait mix, cyclopeeze, whole whitebait. The whole whitebait I feed the anemone a small chunk every day or two, the other ones are fed either the flake, mix or cyclopeeze every other day or so.
Keeping it clean doesn't seem to make a difference to the amount of skimmate and usually I get less than that. I've tried closing the air valve off heaps again to about 2 o'clock, didn't seem to make a difference last time, but we'll see.
Heh, I suppose you could try and drill a hole in the CRT somewhere to release the vacuum...Err...Fill the vacuum and then carefully cut off the front glass. But then I think the phosphors are coated directly to the glass and you'd have to remove them. What you COULD do though is lay a piece of acrylic on the CRT and blast it with the heat gun until it's nice and soft then using a towel or something smooth it down so it's molded to the CRT.
You need to learn to crop your photos.
Weird, though. Is there any visible damage to the xenias when they retract or when they extend again? If there isn't any damage I'd tend to doubt it's eating the xenia. Maybe it's just irritating it?
Heh, only took about 10 minutes.
I have an octopus coral that seems to shrink when it has that kind of current, so I've put it in a stiller area, but the torch did the same at first and it seems to have adjusted.
Would you guys consider this medium current? Hard to place something in "medium" current when you don't have a reference for what's medium.
http://homepages.paradise.net.nz/bpresant/fish/torch.mov
It gives you more area for airation which will help eliminate CO2 and decreases CO2 concentration by because you have heaps more water that isn't full of anything other than some stray pods that are producing CO2. Doubling the water volume does not double the CO2 production in the system unless you also double the amount of fish, corals, etc.
You shouldn't have calcium precipitating out of the water, just what is being used by any livestock in which case the concentrations will drop slower with a larger water volume and you still only have to replace what your livestock are using. Adding more water volume in the sump is not going to increase the calcium usage of the system except for whatever handful of tubeworms and similar happen to start growing in the sump.
Sure it is, it dampens any changes in water conditions. Takes longer for PH to drop, longer for nitrates to rise, longer for calcium to drop, longer for KH to drop...
There's not going to be any more lighting compared to a refugium unless he does put lights over one to be a grow out tank. Heating may be a bit more, but most of the year heating isn't much of a concern. There won't be more pumps because all of it looks to me like it's going to be gravity fed. He's not going to have 3 more 6 foot tanks. He's going to have 3 more large chambers in his sump. There isn't really much more maintenance required on a water container.
And a 4 foot tank is definitely going to be MUCH more stable than a 3 gallon desktop nano.
Were Zebra plecos the plecs that had a mine upstream dump mercury into the only river they're found in and wipe out the entire river? Was some pleco, I'm pretty sure it was zebras.
It's not like we're talking an extra 24 feet of main tank full of corals and fish polluting the water. We're talking extra water volume staibilizing the water conditions and more filtration. If anything that would likely cut down the needed water changes. It's not going to be much more bio load on the system in those tanks. I say go for as big as you can.
Hmmm, Great idea, Reef! It'd be so clean it would have to be the nicest tank ever!
What I need to do is cut back on the feeding and get my skimmer cranking out a bit more...