Ira

Hard to tell for sure since you've got the camera focused about a foot past the rock. But it looks like red macroalgae. Nice stuff, I've got heaps. I've pulled out about a basketball sized clump from my tank rcently because it was taking up so much room. But it grows in a nice easy to remove clump.

They use T5s, don't they? Any lighting store should be able to get them.

Generally unless it's really bad you don't treat it. And you do not treat the tank, you catch the fish and treat it in a hospital tank. Most whitespot treatments are copper based which will poison any invertebrates.

Blue tangs are very susceptible to white spot.

Any bets on how long it takes to get rid of all of them? Took me a little under 2 years for my 400 pearl gouramis, looks like at least that many fry there and jags will be much harder to errr...Rehome.

Generally if the fish is getting stuck to the filter intake it's practically dead already.

I have that same thermometer. I've found it reads exactly 1 degree high though. Checked against 3 other thermometers of 3 different types. Wierd.

I've cracked a couple lids with the heat from my lights too. I think a fan like Suphew says is probably your best bet. Also if you have the corner cut off might help to try and smooth it off with a bit of sandpaper or something, get it nice and rounded and that will help keep cracks from having a place to start.

My yellow tang girl doesn't seem particularly fussy. I say it's a she because it nibbles at my red macroalgae and gets red lips that looks like lipstick.

20ppm of nitrates is fine too.

Heh, Yeah, that's definitely NOT a chocolate striped cat. This is a chocolate cat and goes for something like $20-30 That Panaque I think I saw them once and it was in the $200. Guess idiot LFS employees ARE good for something!

Try macro mode and holding the button halfway to lock the focus then move it back and forth until it looks like it's focused on the right spot?

Sponges and filters? Might I suggest eliminating those? And I hope you have a skimmer.

I'm thinking of maybe just a 3 stage... 2 sediment prefilters and the RO because I don't have to worry about chlorine.

Probably don't need a sparky. Pull the ballast out(Keep track of where the wires go) and take it to a professional electronics store and say, "I want one of these in 220V, please" and then swap it in.

For the most part even the marines don't need that higher kelvin lighting, it's mostly for looks.

It wouldn't surprise me if it's more like 25watt peak, 20 or even 15 sustained. I have a 300 watt stepdown transformer. It's currently running...Errr...My PC speakers...Overkill, gotta love it.

How many people have taps on their tanks that will frequently be turned on and off? Not many, maybe a few ball valves that will be tweaked occasionally, but other than that they're mostly not used unless removing a pump or similar when you'd usually turn it off beforehand.

I don't think wear and tear on the plumbing is a particularly big concern. Has anyone ever had their plumbing wear out? Patches worn throw the bends?

Oops, double post.

Why having trouble with spitting instead of swallowing?

You'll still get the same head with the smaller pipe, IE the same back pressure, but you'll get higher frictional head on top of that.

You don't need to fix the roof, just put a tank under the leak! Instant water change!

Whoever told you distilled water will leach minerals from your body is an idiot. True, it'll get mixed with stuff and then get peed out, but then that's all waste anyway. And if you're so close to a mineral deficiency that you need to worry about it you should be taking a multivitamin.

And expensive. My setup is exactly like that diagram of LBBs, it's worked flawlessly except for a slight manufacturing fault which put the float valve too close to a partition which would make it jam. Moved it a bit and it's been perfect ever since. I should also be able to use it with a small powerhead if I wanted, using an airpump to push the water out would start to be a problem if you were using, for example, a 200L barrel for the topoff water. You'd end up with the water continuing to flow for far too long after the pump stops with a larger air reservoir. But with a 25L container it only continues to run for about 100ml when it's almost full to 500ml ish when nearly empty