Ira

My Crispa is starting to get a few tentacles with some tan patches. I'm HOPING this means it's starting to cultivate...Breed? whatever... it's zoox. Fay, you're probably the best one to ask. I've managed to get the guy much higher in the tank and get him to stay there. So he's now maybe a footish beneath the lights, but off to the side a little bit. Still, should be pretty good lighting if he stays there.

I'd imagine if you run the line from the calcium reactor into your skimmer that would outgas all the CO2.

$465 for a drill? Must be a tunze drill...

I did try tweaking the hole size, I couldn't get it right, that's why I put in the airline valves so I wouldn't have to keep constantly drilling new holes.

Or get a camera with manual shutter and aperature!

You can adjust the height of the water level in your sump or the chamber the return pump is so that the pump runs dry before it over flows. No overflowing tank. Probably a good backup anyway just in case a durso that's set up normally not like Cracker's gets blocked by something.

Most tropical anemones also need heaps of light, I'd imagine those red rockpool anemones will be the same. They just usually slowly starve to death over 6+ months instead of quickly dying.

Yup, you could probably get away with running a tropical tank the same way as long as you just wanta few fish, a few hermit crabs, shrimp, snails, etc. It's the corals that make things more complicated.

Simply having fish in a tank will cause the PH to drop. If your water is very soft it becomes more obvious because of the lack of buffering capacity in the water. So, to combat the PH drop you need to either stop using very soft rainwater(Not an option), remove the fish(Not really an option), or add something like crushed oyster shells to your filter. You can buy it from most pet shops as bird grid, $10 for a kilo or two.

I thought MAF had said invoices aren't good enough?

Just drilling holes I couldn't get the water level stable so it would stop siphoning out too much water and gurgling then filling the tank with bubbles from running the pump dry. What I need is a bigger valve, but I haven't bothered to look for one.

The T shaped ones with the screwy bit on them...I'd try and find a pic but Google image search isn't working :-?

I use the cheap $1ish airline valves from a pet store. 2 of them aren't quite enough to flow enough air for my overflow though. 3-4 would probably be ideal, but that's getting a bit ridiculous.

I thought the whole point of it being ATC was that you wouldn't need any kind of correction?

*Waits for the "Get a tunze replies"* I assume you're getting two? M820 or M1100.

Does kalk work for pest children in a tank?

Same thing.

Refractometers should be able to measure much better than .002 That's when your water's actually 1.026 it could be reading 1.024-1.028. That's EASILY within the range of a refractometer.

I'd like to have a dedicated fish tank circuit, as it is now my marine tank is on the same circuit as most of the kitchen so the tank going+the toaster/dishwasher+the jug=tripped circuit breaker.

Feed...White...AHHH! better feed mine it's been months, they're just sitting in a box in the sleepout.

Yeah, even for a $20 whacking stick though that would decrease the per whack cost to about $.50 since you wouldn't be getting your hands wet or anything. So 4 whacks every 2 weeks at $.50 for a $680 difference means 13 years before the tunze pays for itself or 26 years at 2 whacks every 2 weeks.

I dunno, what's the value of a whack? How many whacks is $700 worth? Say one whack, if necessary which isn't garaunteed, is worth $1. And like I do you turn the powerhead off on average once every 2 weeks. That means it requires about $26 whacks per year per seio. For 4 that's $104 of whacks per year. So, that's 6 years, 8 months and 2 weeks before the Tunze pays for itself in not requiring whacks to start. Now, that's if ALL of the seios require whacking. It looks like at least half of the seios don't need whacking, so based on that you'd get 13 years 5 months before the tunze's no whacking comes out ahead.

OK, 6.5 times the price for the one with the wavemaker or 4.5 times without. But then, Why spend 4.5 times the price for 4 times the flow, but do they make something in the 4000lph range if that's all you need? Or would we be expected to pay 4.5 times as much money for too much flow?

According to my math that would have dropped your salinity from 1.026 to 1.0256 I don't remember your total volume, but that's based on 2000Lish. So...I'd say .0004 is within the margin of error for your average refractometer.

And they're...What, 8x more expensive? And even if mine ever needed help getting started it's not a big deal, it's usually on constantly anyway, so it's really no big deal if I have to give it a tap to get it going after unplugging it once every few weeks.