Insect Direct

nice one Alan its very cool seeing them so small

be nice to have input from some others on feeding....even temps?

shhhhh....eeeeee

if housing indoors, during summer you can have an enclosure outside for your lizard to have access to natural sunlight. Just make sure they can get out of the direct sun if need be, and provide a water dish as per normal. could add somthing along those lines if it hasnt been said already if you like..... anyone else...any thing....even the smallest things you may of observed or what ever maybe a big help to others?

p.s ask for artificial grass....i was asking for astro turf :oops: the per meter is 1m x 1.8m wide aswel

yep warehouse, bunnings and mitre 10 mega, . most hardware places have it...i ring around then go with the best deal :lol: mega and bunnings were $19.80 pm last week and warehouse about $24-25pm...every month or so warehouse do a sale on it though which i just missed.

i did wonder if i was reading it wrong.. Mustard Greens 7.52:1 doesnt that mean 7.52calcium to 1 phosphorus?

live is best and im yet to see many if any overfed dragons.....more so the opposite is what i see more of?

thank you for the links, that ca;p ratio is handy to know seems im on the rite track growing mustard

I find if leaving live food in with them they go off it all together? hence why only add what they eat...next time round if they havent seen anything for a while theyre more likely to be keen..... Crickets can be tricky but are nutritionally superior to locusts so well worth it. each live food has its good and bad Crickets, can bite, males chirp but great for gutloading as they have a large abdomen. Cockroaches, can climb really well but are a great food. Gut load reasonably well. Locusts pretty harmless but can climb well and not so good as the 2 above on the nutritional front.

very cool

input on how much live food people find works would be handy to i feed hatchlings 2-3times a day with small crickets and or cockroaches, doesnt take long before they eat a good 10 crickets each in a sitting. 6-12weeks - 2 times a day. small to mediums crickets/roaches, locusts are also good. 3-6months - 2 feeds a day (one feed may do) -medium crickets, roaches, locusts. Waxworms, slaters (woodlice), blow flies and moths as a treat (maybe once or twice a week). 6-9months - 1 feed per day medium to large crickets 9months+ 4-5days a week or every other day. large/winged crickets, locust roaches every sitting i normally just feed out what they will eat comfortably withing about 5mins. My bds know to eat up or bask on :lol: salads served daily choped to size

forgot about this thread :oops: will carry on in the new care sheet thread.

for sure. sometimes basic is best to though vets would be handy. vets at Massey Palmerston North are apparintly really good. I would like to know what people's thoughts are in regards to worming bds, reptiles in general? fenbendazole is apparintly ok to use on bds but this is something ive only just recently started looking into. Mainly because a couple of my dragons seem to eat well but not fatten up............

no worries, ive been meaning to put a sheet together for a long time. so if we can all chip in that would be ultimate maybe we can add/adjust as see fit in future? seems to be a hobby thats thriving and so much yet to learn and or changing all the time..

looks very good. good site for greens http://www.beautifuldragons.503xtreme.c ... ition.html salad tip; make enough for 3-4days, store in ziplock bag in fridge. feed out as needed. its good practice to take the salad out at night. floor space more important to height for indoor setups. especially vitticeps, barbata more aboreal. temps id say 40-45C basking spot, cool end 20-25C. night time temps best not to drop below 15C mist every day for young, mist every few days for adults if that? bath once a month (not essential), warm water about 25-30C an inch or 2 deep is enough for young, incraese with age. ALWAYS supervise when in water. bathing also helps stimulate number 2's and is a good way to hyrdate a lizard. Live food for young, what they will eat within 15 mins. Put in a bug or 2, if they eat add more. if not bad luck (for the bd) offer some more later in the day. best not to leave live food roaming with your pet. Crickets at night especially as they can nibble the toes/tails/eyes of your dragon, having a water source for the crickets...ie salad or even just the bds water bowl will help minimalise this. Try not to feed anything 2 hours prior to lights out, this just gives them time to digest whats in there stomach prior to lights out/temps cool off. Supplements Calcium 5days a week for young, 3 days a week for adults? 5days for laying females multi vitamin once a week, less if feeding a good vaired diet? Supplements can be applied to salads and or live food. I prefer dusting the livefood . im by no means an expert, still learning everyday but the above seems to work for me. feel free to re-word chop up or delete any of the above the things ive put ?'s beside i would especially like to here what others think about. but yea i appreciate we all have our ways so would be nice to have anyones input this. if ive repeated anything uve already said sorry...tired :oops:

is there a way to test the levels of calcium and phosphate in bds? also does anyone know if theres a way to flush/detox a reptile of phosphate?

jennifer, thats very interesting random but on parasites hookworms are being studied and trials have shown just recently that when put into human who couldnt tolerate gluten most could again with some short time frame...(chinese whispers may have blurred my comment but its somthing along those lines :lol: ) so very likely parasites play a good roll in there somewhere. abit like good and bad bacteria maybe. if healthy why treat it..if not healthy you shouldnt really add it to your tank. If a fish is sick in your existing tank then it probably should be separated anyway.

this site needs an article on the bds............any volunteers bd's are awesome reptiles, very easy care imo IF u get the basics rite. hot end a good 40C cool end low 20's say live food twice a day atleast for first 3-6months. no live food bigger than thy space between the eyes uv reptile bulbs within 30cm, closer the better. replace every 6 months Best to get them young watch em grow older ones are often stunted sick and or been raised on funny diets like dog food :roll: stay cool till after school 8) lol p.s regarding vege ive seen hatchlings pick away at the stuff from as young a 2weeks old. and that includes the one you got form me Dave+Amy

Thanking you all...i pickup some frogs today so will attempt to plant out the tank in time.....using the exo terra setups for now and its always fun trying to arrange them with limited floor space. p.s herperjosh that really cool fern sounds cool, must get me one :lol:

love the pics :lol:

Just curious as to what plants seem to grow well in frogs setups. obviously some may work better for the particular frog species given they all have slightly differant needs but any suggerstions i will be greatful for. cheers

only if you are.. any idea on what age they may start getting a bit hormonal?

another breeder told me a similar story. his 5 yr old male one day had babies :lol:

Everything ive read contradicts. i just take it these are very difficult to sex....time will tell?