alanmin4304

I wouldn't worry about the infusoria, the fry are way big enough not to need that. Brine shrimp nuplii and microworm will be fine.

You would be best to run a timer with the lights.

Plants or animals which are legally imported go through quarantine to make sure they have not piggybacked diseases. Even if a smuggled animal or plant is already here there is still the risk of other things arriving with them.

CO2 cylinder needs to be upright

Cicada during their very short season, huhu grubs, pinkies and moths

I think he imported second hand filters and a number of types of plants as I understand it. Seems a pretty light sentence to me, maybe the thought was that her probable loss of career was an added punishment.

I used to breed them in bare 50 litre tanks with just the pair in there with a small slate hanging at the top. It is about clean water and lots of live food. Lumbriculus, daphnia, whiteworms etc. They will breed every 10-14 days and you remove the eggs and hatch them in another tank. Lots of tanks required.

I would be wanting to fill my pockets but would have to resist the temptation.

You can get nonreflective glass that is used in picture frames. I don't know how thick you can get it ---best talk to a glazier.

I wonder what happened to patient confidentiallity over all of this. First rule out the window?

I am not sure that the new "copper coins" actually contain copper. The old fashioned way to cure velvet was to add a penny or copper wool and remove it when the snails crawl out of the water. A safer way would be to use acriflavine or wunder tonic which is a pea soup of meth blue, malachite green, acriflavine and quinine, most of which will cure velvet. Some fish are very sensitive to copper.

There is none.

Welcome.

I would think that far more would be lost by not feeding properly and them eating each other than in transporting them if they were packed well.

They will be whistlers and greens as the green and golds don't go that far south--too cold.

I use rainwater. Don't know about the salt.

Try Pet World---they make stuff like that.

At least if its raining you know it hasn't just stopped or is about to start. Sorry I forgot the place was settled by scots rather than the Irish.

Best to leave the kahika where they are as they are pretty endangered and generally die when removed. The ones in the shops are pinched from the wild.

They are imported periodically so will be around.

I only used meth blue with eggs that had been removed from the parents. If the parents are looking after them there is no need. Add meth blue at the same time that you relocate the eggs.

Wouldn't thiosulphate be easier?

Redwood Aquatics imported a few killies recently but no gularis

Copied from a previous post & edited: When you add chlorine to water you get hypochlorous acid which reacts with nitrogen compounds like ammonia,urea and the amines (in all proteins) and forms monochloramine. When you add more chlorine you get dichloramine and even more you get trichloramine. All these (and other reactions) form part of the "chlorine demand" in the water. You cannot get free available chlorine until this "chlorine demand" is satisfied. Therefore when the reaction is pushed towards trichloramine there will be virtually no monochloramine present. In some states in the US they treat the water with monochloramine (made by reacting chlorine with ammonia) because chlorine will react with other impurities in the water and form some compounds that are not so nice (such as acetone) where as monochloramine will not. Monochloramine is not as effective in treating water as chlorine which is used in NZ but is still a strong oxidising agent. When people complain that the chlorine in a swimming pool is too strong and it is burning their eyes the problem usually is that the free available chlorine has been used up by contaminants in the water (such as urea) and this has pushed the chloramines back towards the monochloramine and this is what is burning their eyes. The problem is fixed by adding more chlorine. When you allow water to stand or aerate it to get rid of the chlorine the chloramines all move back to monochloramine and this will react with your fish the same as an under chlorinated swimming pool will with your eyes. Chlorine and all chloramines can be converted to more harmless chemicals with the addition of sodium thiosulphate which is the active ingredient you are buying from the petshop with dechlorinating products. Drinking water will contain various impurites that add to the chlorine demand and will form chloramines and other compounds. Ammonia is a bi product of the reaction when adding thiosulphate to chlorinated water. Chlorine only is used to sanitize water supplies in NZ and when you add chlorine you will always get chloramines unless you use distilled water.

Looks OK to me. Nitrates are not toxic but nitrites are.