alanmin4304

Your females may become males when a little older.

As Alan is quoted as saying, it is a problem of all long fin livebaring fish not just lyretail. When buying males pick ones with a small gonopodium.

I had a few in an outside pond for about a year (about 50mm) and they hardly grew at all. Someone who shall remain a nonny mouse put some larger ones in the local oxidation ponds thinking they would thrive on the daphnia. they lasted a couple of years but they didn't do well (lack of O2 I guess) They do well in the ponds beside the Waimakariri but that is cold, high oxygen water. I think they would struggle in an aquarium

The fry are very small and daphnia will be too big. You will need green water. egg yolk or infusoria to start with, then brine shrimp/microworm. Feed a little and often. I used to get better results by using a pilot light and drip feeding them day and night with green water.

Mine don't, there is no plant in the tank for them to eat, they only get flake and they they get to eat the excess food with fry

You need to get a balance between nutrient and light in order for the plant to grow well and starve the algae. Trial and error is the only way realy. Flourish encourages the plants and is expensive particularly when you need to do water changes to get rid of excess nitrate and phosphate. Cut back on food to a minimum and do regular water changes to strip nutrient. Cutting back on lights will starve the algae but the plants also. It can be a process, but good luck. Siamese algae eaters do help but you need the right ones and dont feed them. I got mine from Organisms.

Probably the cheapest and best way would be to throw a bucket in the sea. I am not sure what percentage you would require for brackish but someone will be able to advise. I found that sea water is the best for treating fish (and it will be exactly what the fish will encounter in nature.)

I have a mixture that I make up in powder form and can be stored dry until mixed with water and heated. It is starch, sugar,yeast,agar and preservative. When required I mix with water and heat up. It makes 3 small containers and remains like firm jelly so you can tip the container up. The preservative stops it going mouldy and stinky. I use old yeast that is no longer active (cheap) as a source of nutrient. The source of starch and sugar does not matter too much.

Is gay marriage legal with fish? She may have to adopt.

It may be be malachite in which case you will need to watch any sensitive fish. Methylene blue is usually used as a fungacide.

Got it sorted, the thermostat was cleverer than me. It can be set to refrigerate as well as defrost and once I got it set to heat rather than cool it all fell into place. To pass on the info---I have made a 1200 tank divided into 6 compartments and the temperature of the central 4 are within 0.1 deg and the end ones about 1.0deg less (heat loss I guess). That is with the water level the same and tested with a digital thermometer.

What is the active ingredient?

Are you sure your tap water is 8.8 that is very high.

I am like Amazonian, I have a problem with sterilizing the plastic. I would use stainless steel mesh as used by screen printers or marbles as they both can be sterilized by heat. As an aside, if you are ever treating fish with malachite green and get your hands dyed green (as I did once) you can get rid of it sraight away by rinsing in metabisulphite solution (from the next door neighbor who makes home brew and uses it to sterilize bottles) Malachite green is used by the Health department to test the meat at the butchers shop to see if he has been naughty and added metabisulphite (SO2) to the meat to make it look a nice colour or to make the minced meat look pink instead of the grey it goes when they add mutton. If you feed SO2 in minced meat to a magpie it will throw up straight away so it can be a useful test. After my magpie threw up I got the second lot free.

If you remove the fish there can be no whitespot in the cyst (resistent)stage so if you continue treatment you will get rid of it. What are you using for treatment?

Iodine is nothing like chalk and is added to prevent enlarged thyroid.

I don't know what the agent is but most salt in the supermarket has an additive to keep the salt free running. This may or may not be bad for fish.

It is only water movement that could be the problem as cabomba does not like water movement.

If you look at a male and female together (which I think you have) you will see how to sex them if you compare the shape of the belly from the pectoral fins back. The male is more at 45 degrees and the female is more horizontal. The lump on the forehead is only obvious when they are quite old.

I found angel fry do best in a bare tank or they lose the excess food in the gravel and that will encourage planaria. You can clean a bare tank easily with salt

I wouldn't use it witn Bristlenose as they don't like malachite

I got rid of black beard using double dose but it took about 2 months and I lost some guppies

A tank will not break if the base is evenly and properly supported and the glass is in good condition. If the base has been damaged by geing knocked and chips taken out in weakens the glass considerably. Any tanks I have had to repair have had a chip out and that is where the break has started.

When they make charcoal they heat wood to a high temperature without the presence of O2. If you heat charcoal to a high temperature in O2 it will burn but without O2 it will only drive off the volatiles (everything else will remain but may change a bit through being cooked)

If you fire carbon at 300 deg you will not have much carbon left