alanmin4304

It wont work as drawn but as stated, using the airstone in a tube can carry the water from the bottom and create a drop in water pressure so the tank water runs through the filter will work.

There is more than one right way but the best way is the one that works best for you. When I was seriously rearing guppies I used to make up a batch of food and freeze it into small ice cubes and put in a new one each day and remove the remains of the old one, that way they can feed all they want and grow like mad.

Angel genes are in pairs and with that cross you will end up as Amaazonian said, with a single marble gene and stripes---- not a good cross. You will know soon if not already what sex each is and should be able to obtain a better partner for each.

I used to breed hundreds of N. guentheri years ago when I had a fish house and storing eggs was only a matter of chucking the bag up into a corner and waiting. I had best success by spawning them onto fine sand that will run through a net but leave the eggs behind. That way you can count the eggs and work out what your hatch rate is. I found only about 10%would hatch and another 10% a month later. This seems like a chore but 6 - 8 months down the track it all falls into place. If you seperate males and females and condition them up you can breed 6 - 12 trios every week and and your only problem becomes finding a market. I used to store N.guentheri eggs for 4 months, I am not familiar with your species. With good feeding they can hit the market in 6-8 weeks which is a good turnaround time.

One of the reasons I don't use filters with guppies is that they do better in clean water low in nutrient. A filter removes the lumps and converts many wastes into soluble material. The only way to strip nutrient is to remove it with water changes (ask a discus breeder) Many people breed guppies but not many people breed good ones. You need to get some size on your females before they are gravid or all their energy goes into babies rather than growth. If you wait you will end up with more babies in the end. Likewise a good male guppy has a good body size as well as a good tail. Heavy feeding and lots of water changes--listen to grandad

I feed white worms and I think they drown in about a day, don't think they would stay alive 2 weeks. I will stick with planaria.

I agree with Amazonian. I have my breeding females in a large trap permanently and with no filtration. That way they are not stressed by moving them and the fry can be undesturbed for a few weeks until big enough to sefely move. I regularly siphon off the gunge and do regular 50% water changes every day or second day. Feed heavily and have a few snails to eat the excess food.

I would guess planaria also. They are flat worms and slide along the glass more than free swimming.

My little guy has just grown his front claws back after his girlfriend rejected his advances and bit 3 claws off each front leg. They are somewhat deformed and nowhere near as attractive as they were. He still behaves like Don Juan though.

Perhaps I should clarify: I meant the fish all look the same (female) until the males colour up, not that a female will change to a male.

I think other than in extreme cases or when trying to encurage fish to breed you are better to get the fish used to your water than the other way around. Once started you will be at it forever. I would agree that if you have, to peat is the best, particularly if you want to breed as the tanins etc also encourage that.

If you wish to avoid restricting the flow rate on the filter you can place mesh over the entrance but that can often cause a problem by sucking the fry up to the mesh. You will then need to increase the size of the inlet to decrease the velocity but maintain the flow rate (like the end of a gravel vac). This worked for me on an external canister filter by using a gauze covered funnel jammed in the end of the hose.

When I was at high school (hate to think how long ago that was) we kept whitebait with tadpoles of whistling frogs briefly. I think you may be surprised at what size of live food they will eat.

I have a heavily planted 300 litre tank with the main lights on a timer that comes on at about 5am so to help avoid scaring the fish when they switch on I have a 15 watt incandescent that stays on 24/7. When the main lights go off it looks like moonlight and the incandescent also improves plant growth.

I have found that when keeping cold water fish, both fresh water and marine is that they like cold water which is high in O2. The warmer the water gets the less O2 it will carry. You therefore need to keep them in the coldest place you can and stock the tank lightly. Whitebait are voracious feeders (once they start feeding) and will eat just about any live thing that will fit in their mouth. I understand they are annuals and therefore likely have pesonalities similar to the annual killies (eat like mad and grow like mad)

You would be better off with bulbs as a 2 ft flourescent wont normally fit into a 2 ft lid and a 1 ft is not enough light for plants.

It is half of a cube 67x67x50 cm = half of 224450 cub cm = 112.225 litres

Instead of a hole at the top of the bend you could use an air inlet valve (available from the same plumbing supplies as you get your wastepipe.

I have made bits and pieces in the past by bending perspex tubing in hot glycerine. (It heats the inside of the pipe at the same time) You need to be careful as it is like sugar solution and gets very hot.

Is that an air inlet valve on the top. On backflow prevention by air gap seperation it would be normal to have an outlet pipe of 4 times the diameter of the inlet. What is the relationship you use on sumps?

Try to get some good containers so you can take as much of the tank water with you as you can to maintain the same chemistry. I ised to get the used 20 litre vodka containers from the bulk dept at the local for a couple of bucks

You need to get your priorities right. Test kits are useful but it is more important to get into the habit of doing the right thing so you do not create the problems that you are testing for. If you cycle the tank properly, get plants established well and only introduce fish slowly and make any changes slowly, nature and your tank will take care of itself. I have been keeping fish for many years and don't own any test kits, pH or hardness adjusters or charcoal. That is my choice, others find them useful but I think it is more important to get into the right habit than become very skilled at measuring your mistakes.

I have never kept lotus, how do they propagate?

What is the active ingredient?

Some crosses are good like black or marble to gold, and some not so good like blusher (lack of stripe gene) to silver. It often helps to avoid breeding brother and sister.