alanmin4304

Goldfish can get dropsy because they don't feed when it is cold so diet and temperature are important.

It is so the pet shop can make a profit.

The thermostat is electronic and reads the actual temperature (which is correct when checked against an electronic thermometer) but you preset it to the temperatue you want. I slightly damaged the aluminium cover on the heater when putting the tank in place and tested the element direct by putting the current through the heater then a light bulb to check that the circuit was complete, and it was OK. The thermostat has 2 connections for the probe, 2 for power in and 2 for power out and I think I have it connected correctly. I think I will disconnect the additional heater and see what happens. When I got it made I thought 300 watts would be way more than required, it surprised me that it took so long to heat up. I will check the output connections to see if they are OK.

I have just set up a tank 1200 L X 425 W X 400 H and used a 300 watt heater from Argos with a love TS temperature switch. It is set for 25deg C with initial water temperature of about 10 deg C and ambient around 15 deg C. It has about 50mm sand in the bottom. I have had to add another element/thermostat to get the water temperature up as it did not want to get above 15deg after 2 days. Is this normal--- any suggestions welcome as this is my first experience with these heaters. I have tested the element by putting a light bulb in the circuit and it is OK.

Stargrass needs a lot of light. The usual problem people have is letting it grow too tall and it blocks the light to the bottom of the pLant and the leaves go black. Keep it short. give it lots of light and it will grow that well you will be able to apply for a PhD.

When I was selling aquatic plants to the pet shops they wanted them with weights to display them better in their tanks. I used to buy the flashing that Warren refers to from a scrap metal yard. I was getting small rolls of brand new stuff that they set aside for me. I still have some if you cannot source it locally I can sell you a bit, but it will be a lot cheaper if you can get it locally as it weighs a lot (HEAVY AS LEAD)

I think the inunga is also called stinky or cucumber fish (smells like cucumber)

It can have a number of causes some of which will be communicable. The dropsy is the sign of the fluid retention caused by kidney problems from any number of causes.

It sometimes takes a while to train them to eat various foods but I think it is a good idea to get them used to the biggest range of food you can when they are young.

Most of the top feeders will go for fruit fly (my australe aren't interested)

I sell plant trops on Trademe.

Most public water supplies will be slightly over pH7 so that the water is not aggressive so every water change you will be chasing the pH. Get them used to what you have (slowly) unless you want to breed them.

I have put 4 sae into a 300l heavily planted tank and they have cleaned it up in a week. I had not kept them before but understand they lose interest as they get older. Mine are up to 50mm and work flat out day and night. I have pilot lights at night.

I have been chasing algae for months. Finally got rid of the black beard then got an agressive "green beard". Put in four of those wee guys into a heavily plantd 300l tank and they have cleaned it up in a week. Great wee workers night and day, and peaceful with it.

I would siphon them into a bucket then spend some time adding water from the new tank to get them gradually used to any changes.

720mm high will need more light if you wish to grow plants and the extra height will not permit more fish as that is a factor of surface area as previosly stated.

Read the label. If it says 'SUITABLE FOR AQUARIUMS" it probably is. If the price says "cheap" it is probably good.

Well said.

What you vacuum up in an unplanted tank is basically what the plants feed on. I have heavily planted tanks and only vacuum the surface (of sand) when it starts to look a bit too cruddy. Too much build up of mulm can cause algae problems but other than that there is little need, if you have a good balance of plant,fish light and nutrient.

Weight the runners so they are in the water but near the surface so they get plenty of light. When the young plant has half a dozen good leaves and good roots it can be gently loosened from the runner and replanted. Don't be impatient--wait until the plant is developed enough to survive on its own. You will find there will often be more than one plant at each node--just loosen the ones that are ready. Don't cut the runner as when the young plants are removed others will probably develop. Good luck.

If it is bicarbonate of soda it will be putting CO2 into the water in acid conditions. This is the opposite of what you want. A pinch of baking soda would be cheaper but no better for the fish.

If your outlet is the same size as the pump outlet you should be OK.

The only bacteria that will remain completely dormant are spore formers and I doubt that they are the bacteria that you want. I used to have 50 tanks, have kept fish for years and have never used any product to cycle other than the bacteria I want, stolen from another tank by running the filter in there for a while, or by heavily planting the tank then adding fish slowly so that the balance is maintained. In my opinion many of these products, like chemicals to eliminate chlorine from Christchurch water (which has none) are a way for people to make money. Throw all the rubbish out, your fish will be grateful.

It is mined in the Malvern Hills - at the back of Darfield but is crushed and sold as powder.

I would put it another way: Many plants sold in pet shops as aquatics are realy pot plants and most of the plants are grown emersed because they grow quicker.