alanmin4304

Think about the fact that most serial killers start by mutilating animals and pray that they don't live close to you.

PAYBACK--- eat the trout.

I don't know about bloat but I have used neguvon (sheep dip) to kill gill and skin flukes in goldfish. 3% bath for 3 minutes. I think the use of many ag chems is ok but you need to get the dose right.

I would agree with repto. You have to pay good money to get an accurate thermometer and I have. I bought an electronic digital thermometer from Homershams and that is what I use to test everything (fish tanks, reptile enclosures and incubators. It is accurate to within about 0.1 degrees and is the one I believe. Set the thermostat and test the temperature and alter to suit but ignore everything else. Temperatures will vary over an enclosure from one end to the other and top to bottom, and that is good. The reptile will find the temperature it wants.

Southern bells are biggr and more warty on the back. Green and golds have the gold line through the eye and along the body. Wartys and whistlers wont need heat.

By golden bell frogs I take it you mean the green and gold bell frogs rather than the larger southern bell frogs, because the latter will not need heating. I have mine in a terrarium divided into half land and half water and heat the water with a heater/thermostat.

I had a dremel for years but bought the knockoff for the stand. The whole setup was less than half the price of what I paid for the dremel flexible extension. A lot of shops down here have stopped stocking the dremel tools as no one buys them with the knockoffs up the road.

The main difference would be the temperature. The green and golds don't occur naturally where you are si I assume you would need to heat them in winter. I have albinos and they are at 26 deg. The whistlers don't like the heat so would be better unheated. Have you got lots of live food?

I have both and the each have done a lot of work and you wouldn't know the difference. Bet you don't buy the dremmel cutting tools.

You do know that you can buy Chinese knockoff complete with extension, stand and a heap of fittings for $40. Then all you have to watch for is chicken flu. Easier to catch a chicken than a Mexican.

Imagine how long you get to savour the smell when you have a beard full of it.

I get mine from the plant nursery in Fairy Rd next to Pet world on the corner of Smith St.

Thanks for the advice. Will work on it tomorrow.

I am pretty sure there is a factory in Hororata that crushes the rock into powder for resale. If you ring The Selwyn District Council they should be able to tell you the name of the place. I think they used it to seal oxidation ponds and water races.

I think both are sharp sand. If you want rounded sand best to use river sand. Assuming builders sand is plastering sand.

The simple answer is as much as they can eat in 5 minutes. When breeding the rules change and it becomes---feed as much as you can get away with, but there are a lot of conditions that go with that. The biggest single mistake people new to fish keeping make is over feeding. .

I have built a double story terrarium which is one on top of the other and each is 1600x600x600mm. They are presently in the top one while the sand in the bottom one dries out. I then intend to seperate them and gradually reduce light and heat until July/August by which time I hope they will brumate. They have been together since young and they generally seem to get on OK but I will seperate them as soon as possible. The male is 3 years old and the female 2 years old. She laid three clutches of eggs last year but none hatched. I questioned the previous owner and it sounds like his incubator had temperature fluctuations all over the place and he let them dry out. I am therefore hopeful that was the cause and not the male firing blanks. The male is a red and the female red/yellow. After a long ongoing battle I manged to procure "the hard to obtain" incubator which seems to be unused and purpose made for reptiles. I also obtained an ex laboratory incubator which is identical to the ones we used when doing microbiology way way back in 1971. I have tested them both with an accurate electronic thermometer and they are both ranging 0.5 deg C of set point. We feel we therefore have the technology and await the goods. Timing is everything and I don't want to rush them. I would interpret the body language as suggested and was looking for confirmation from people with more experience. They were both together in a smaller terrarium untill I got this one finished and the male was not eating and looked like he wanted to start brumating so when I moved them I put the lights on for 14 hours and the heat up to mid 30s. I may have got them too excited and wonder if I should cut the lights and heat back a tad and seperate them as soon as possible. They are both active and eating well but I would think it a bit un natural for them to be breeding in the winter and would rather they bred spring/summer.

Lots more fish die from overfeeding than underfeeding and it is generally caused by misguided kindness.

Or ther gunge that collects on it.

As suggested don't use that. The phosphate will encourage algae as well. Most fish will tolerate a range of water conditions including temperature, hardness and pH if the changes are gradual. Once you start chasing the pH you will be running after it forever.

And back to the question. Anyone translate the meaning of all this or do I ring the deaf assn on their fax?

Are you sure the father is culling the ones that need to be culled or the ones that might threaten his position as alpha male?

It is a great plant to use in combination with a lot of things eg bacon bones, pork bones, mutton birds, koura.

A bit late for that, got the grey now.

I am worried now. She was looking at me when her beard went black.