Squirt

Haha, not anymore. When I first started staining she decided it would be fun to wal all over it :facepalm: a rare brown feet cat...

Finished staining the deck today. Finally :nilly: now they want me to paint the bathroom roof?! Jeez only one guy here people! Was pretty tired after the cat keeping me up till one whilst sleeping on my bed and then waking me at 7 :yaw1: sleeping patterns are terrible at the moment. Exam results out in the next two days exciting :happy1: :nilly:

Oh ok, so one lip would be the wall as well I guess.

Hi Si Okay thanks for that. I see you only have a lip on 3 sides? Haha it's a high stand. I needed a short one either wise I won't be able to reach the bottom Thanks

Okay a quick new drawing Okay so if I have 8 total vertical braces, 100x100 with the block on top in each corner and 4x 100x50 braces in the middles?

Oh ok thanks for that I was quite confused there :sml1: Yeah, apparently it stops it from slipping. Even though itd be hard to move a 500kg tank with a low centre of gravity, I believe a big one would quite easily break it. And so I flip all of the pieces of wood on their sides, would I still be able to get away with only having 6 vertical braces or would I better off with 8? I think I would still use 100x100 vertical braces as its still just as safe if not safer. I would then add a block on the inside of the frame where the vertical braces meets the top frame so it connects them together more. I'm not sure if that makes sense and I'll get some drawing up soon. Hi Alan, So what do most people use as a lip? I was thinking of attaching plywood to the top frame so it sits just a bit above where the tank will fit in. Of course this makes the tank harder to move due to being have to be lifter over this lip. I had a dream about a stand with wheels... :facepalm:

Hi Thanks Si Sphinx, What did you use to hold your stand together? And how big is it? I see it is pretty standard to have the top frame like Si's and have a flat base. Did you end up putting an MDF or Plywood "lid" on it? So there is an even distribution of weight. And in regards to both stands, did either end up having a lip? I hear it will help save a tank in an earthquake. Thanks again Matt

Thanks smidey A few questions. What happened between picture two and three? And how tall is your stand?

I looked at some other tank stands and it looks like I'm doing this wrong. Instead of the top and bottom frames being on its front, it should be on its side? I originally was thinking about doing it this way, but then you can only have 50x50 vertical supports.They don't seem that secure compared to a 100x100 vertical support. Is there any downsides to doing it my way?

Hi I'm in the process of building my own stand. The dimensions will be 1700 x 550w x 500h. It will be supporting about 500kgs due to the tank not being completely full. The top and bottom frames Everything in the above photo will be made from 100x50. This is the front view/frame I'm not sure how clear it is, but the shaded area is the side on view of the top and bottom frame. The vertical supports will be 100x100. Ie the back left, back middle, back right, front left, front middle and front right vertical ones are 100x100 I plan to use 9mm MDF for the front and side "walls" and cupboards. This will only cover the bottom frame and the vertical supports. I plan to add a lip to the top frame made from whatevers going to be strongest. I will then add a metal brace on each corner, so 8 of them to add strength. I'm not sure how I'm going to stick it all together yet. Not sure wether to use a wooden dowel or nails. If anyone has made a stand could shed some light on this. On the bottom frame, would it be beneficial to add a piece of plywood so there is more area on the floor so there is less pressure? Without the plywood is 5000/.41= 12195 Pascals. Or with the plywood providing it is dead flat 5000/.935=5347 Pascals. Of course I'll add something to the top frame as well. Is there any benefit of MDF vs Plywood in this situation? Of course MDF will rot with water, but it is cheaper. Or is plywood less bendable? Oh and I calculated the total cost at $132 so far. Thanks in advance Matt

+1

There's a lot of learning to do in there, substrate fertilizers, macros and micros, Diffusing the CO2, CO2 systemslighting, photoperiod, substrate, pH, gH, kH, water depth ect once it's set up you're good to go, but some plants don't like a high tech system. Not difficult but takes time

Nice tank 20 acres >.> ultra mega large turtle tank

It's on now for anyone that's interested

Yeah I remember reading about it. They had two jars one with java moss one without. They added a small amount of ammonia each day, and found that the java moss do help keep nitrate levels down :thup: It's not very flashy but it does the job.

Java moss?

Just say that on the ads. Looks good :spop:

+1 When you add CO2 into a planted aquarium things get complicated.

On my old one, I broke a clip while trying to close it, but other than that not much. The tubing starts to go brown after a while but easily fixable. If your able to assemble it by using pIctures you should be fine. The instructions aren't that clear. My old one that finally gave was a few years old then anyway.

Die in what way? Just because it's old or something? New one would solve this.

I had aqua world ship mine, and it turned up the next day.

Why pay that much? I got a Sunsun 304 2000L/h for $110 from aqua world.

Problems with iPad and other tablets are that they aren't very portable, ie you can't stick them in your pocket. The note looks like it can fit in your pocket for ease or portability

Im not certain on detritus supplying plants with nitrates. But if your parameters are ok the fish should be ok.

Well let's assume that each bio ring has a total surface area of 5cm^2 and .9m^2=9000cm^2. Therefore you need 1800 bio rings to equal the amount of surface area. Or if we take some information from a trademe auction that has 1500cm^2 of surface area per 1L of noodles. Then 6L of bio noodles is equiviliant to the surface of you're tank